Ratman

You pair of pullers! [emoji23]

Volvo! [emoji106] top lad!

Cracking pair! [emoji106]

Yeah, euro 4 emission regs was acceptable for quite a long time compared to earlier euro 3 regs and later euro 5 regs. I’ve not had dealings with the hilux, but was that not the year they changed/uprated the injectors and had a lot of issues? Think it was the 3.0 litre engine?? I know they are renowned for having noisey injectors.

Yeah your right, there are few manufacturers and models out there that didnt have them till it became compulsory, but those engines would comply with euro emission regs at the time, hence the one you have.

Will have both, dpf been fitted since 2007 - 2008, adblue for euro 6 vehicles predominantly, but they did do an over lap with euro five engines and introduce adblue, merc being a good example with their bluetec systems. Adblue only injects after the combustion process i.e after the turbo but before the catalytic convertor, and is temperature dependant too, typically when exhausts temps are above 200 degrees, It doesnt get mixed with the fuel though which a lot of people assume.

Why such a big bar for doing just firewood?

No its not, the stuff i had was called JB Weld ultimate black, it is a RTV silicone and gasket making sealant that is resistant to high temperatures, greases and oils.

Yep, same cap, only had the one tube. Its gone off in the tube with some bits going hard and some bits remaining soft. Never had an issue before but its almost a new tube and very annoying.

I never rated the super diesel in my nissan that i used for towing, it used to almost “pink” in a way, going from 1st to 2nd gear, i put it down to a characteristic of using said fuel, i think it was due to the breathing of the engine, combined with the fuelling and the egr kicking in to action that it occurred! I found it to be heavier on fuel when towing too. Running on standard premium grade diesel she behaved perfect, never missed a beat and returned 40+ mpg knocking around and 32 - 36 mpg towing! Supermarket fuels are “ok” but contain higher amounts of bio content, which doesnt burn as cleanly but will be ok on long runs, wouldnt recommend at all for short runs. My advise would be to buy fuel from premium garages, shell/texaco etc but use standard grade. A BIG NO NO to all is defo do not run your vehicles on commercial/hgv diesel, it contains a much higher % of bio and WILL create issues for you in the long run. Obviously its ok in hgv’s as they have got the extra cubic capacity in the bore to burn off the extra bio content.

I go back to my tube of jb weld to find that although its sat there with its lid on and all sealed up nicely.... its gone chuffing hard and now rendered useless!!! ? What sealants do you guys use on your saws/casings that actually last??

You’d probably be ok yeah, 10 miles non towing would get engine hot and not produce acres of emission build up which would lead to periodic regens being needed. If your towing then you would defo get higher temperatures, regens would be few and far between and more like manufactures state. Later Euro 5 engines are ok and give little troubles, Euro 6 engines are a different ball game, lot tighter tolerances a less room for error so more stringent regards emitting emissions/sensing of emissions, hence more regens required to keep them running/breathing cleaner. ad-blue was a game changer in the motor industry, lots of people hate it, but people will have to suck it up cos its here to stay! But thats another story! ?

As above, keep temp high and constant for a decent period of time, fooling the system in a way. Short journeys with up down the rev range doesnt usually allow for a regen, unless your towing and boosting hard, then that can give a window to allow a regen.

Saturday dinner time in Gamekeepers Inn at Grassington, Agg’s waiting for her portion of the good old 8oz steak burger. Bless her, she was knackered!

They’re a bonny bunch Differs! [emoji106]

This is my personal view also, another big help with DPF’s is regular oil changes, i know all modern oils etc are given write ups that they can last double the distance blah blah between oil changes, and there are “long life oils” etc, but i think they only work to their full potential in their most ideal conditions, i.e motorway work, when temperatures are up at a constant for long periods of time, when your engine is revving and holding a steady boost, this is when your engine is running at its cleanest and most efficient. We all know this is not the case for many of us who only work a few miles from home, or only do the school run and shopping run each day where the engine doesnt really get worked. This is when the issues begin, engines that are ticking over and not getting to their max temp are working in their dirtiest form as hydrocarbons/soot particles are being produced. EGR (exhaust gas circulation) then comes in to play. If the engine recognises that its not at its cleanest (ecu, temp sensors, air flow sensors, fuel metering sensors, injectors and so on, all talking to each other) then it dumps its exhaust emissions back in to the engine, going back through the combustion cycle. Those dirty particulates then end up back in the bores where your oil is being dragged up and down the bore, which in turn makes your oil dirty, visually blacker and blacker. Oils are full of lubricating properties, detergents, cooling properties etc, the dirtier the oil the less performance return from it. Oil acts as a very big percentage in your engine for cooling also, its not all down to your coolant. So for me, a oil change ever 5k-6k miles is a no brainer, gives extra piece of mind, keeps thing cleaner and cooler, and for what cost typically? £50-£100 depending on spec and vehicle. Again, just my take on it! [emoji106]

Yeah but stopped making them back end of 2015, there are a few early 65 plate 2016’s out there, but not many.

Thats far enough for her to do her thing [emoji106] and yours is euro 5 (i think [emoji37]) which is less hassle than the latest euro 6 setups. Thats a big reason why i looked at the V6 Navara because i only do 5 miles a day typically. But all thats off now with the mrs leaving, i’ll av to just keep my old van for a bit, which in all fairness is pretty bullet proof!

Just tried to put it in “simples” terminology, DPF’s are a real pain in the ass, the trend that seems to be set is, a person gets the engine management/DPF light come on the dash, they take it back to the dealer because its under warranty, dealer checks it out and traces it to be the DPF/forced regen abort fault [emoji849][emoji849]Dealer will then carry out the necessary repair/forced regen needed to get the light out. They then hand the vehicle back to you explaining that..... on this occasion we have rectified your fault for you and done it purely as a good will gesture, BUT.... that has been caused by you and it is your fault the lights come on because your not driving it right!!! (Eerrrr..... yeah whatever!) i.e your not driving enough miles or getting the engine hot enough on each journey blah blah blah, and if it is to happen again then we’re sorry but you will not be covered under your warranty conditions! SLY BARSTEWARDS !!! My advise to anyone thinking of buying a new diesel would be (unless the vehicle dictates due to your work or daily needs) dont! Buy a petrol, there are plenty of good, very fuel efficient petrol motors out there, far less costly on maintenance too. Just my opinion of course! [emoji39]

Pretty much anything with DPF doing short runs and a lot of ticking over will give you problems. They rely on long runs with constant hot temperatures to keep everything clean and clear within their system by doing “regens” (regenerations) which basically burns off excess soot particles to keep the DPF clear, eventually the particles will build up to a point where a new DPF will be required, but that SHOULD be quite a few years down the line if driven to near enough ideal conditions. Long runs, towing, boosting hard etc... Vehicles on short runs and that are ticking over a lot that aren’t boosting and being run at constant higher temps cant regen fully when needed, so they end up retaining the soot particles which block the DPF far sooner. This encourages the vehicle to try and do a forced regen, but this often fails too as obviously the vehicle isn’t being run for long periods or at hot temperatures, thus giving engine warning lights and limp mode symptoms.

I totally agree. If it didnt tap out clean then i think i’d be finding a breakers for a good 2nd hand hub carrier.

I’m taking a punt here, but i would think if its on a VW car, and a suspension related bolt then the pitch may/will be finer than 1.75.

We come across 18mm heads a lot on our Merc trucks, top of my head think they are 12mm thread with 1.75 pitch, or we had 14mm thread with 2.00 pitch! Both have 18mm heads.

[emoji4]

Be worth it even as a non runner!