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Dan Maynard

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Everything posted by Dan Maynard

  1. Might just be acer campestre but I'm with you on the maple idea.
  2. Maybe need to get creative with some steel bar, buy a long auger bit and Loctite an extension on. I've extended drill bits with high strength Loctite, its plenty strong enough to pass the drive of a drill. Otherwise the green oak framers probably have tools for this but guess expensive.
  3. I was thinking that, countertop worn out by too many customers will be a good problem to have. All the best with the shop, Steve.
  4. I had it for a few years. Problem I had is that for easy stuff it's right but you know that anyway. For difficult stuff you're not sure it's right so you end up finding the Collins book to check. Also it's US biased so you don't necessarily get the most likely option here. I'd give it a whirl for a year, if you use it a lot then keep it but if not then don't bother.
  5. Have you got any decent stack of batteries? If it's a small amount of use then maybe buying a bare tool would work? Might still struggle on your £300 though. My brother's got a system from Screwfix, think it was Ryobi, seems to do him ok.
  6. Think that could be the alignment pin , should stay in the side cover and go into this hole when put back together. Is there a corresponding hole in the cover? Not got my 150 handy.
  7. I think that's what they call a farmer saw, so might be fine for what you want. Thing with any secondhand saw is you're taking the risk it's actually scrap or needs expensive repairs, so if you're prepared to throw away £200 trying then go for it. Unlikely all the saws you buy for £200 are bad, but you might end up spending a lot more than you think. Commercially anyone will say buy a new 261.
  8. I have to take HC back but I'll throw gleditsia into the mix as well. Bark looks bit like robinia?
  9. I think exhaust mod is the first thing really, so if you're not up for that then not much to do except keep it clean, keep air filter clean, and keep the chain razor sharp. Not sure what gains from porting, usual thing seems to be exhaust mod and slight ignition advance.
  10. Look a bit like alternating buds to me though? Which would count ash and hc out, hc being my guess with those curving ends to the branches.
  11. I think it's possible the remaining one would survive, the only disadvantage I can think is that the dead trunk would probably originally feed the roots on that side, so the root plate is compromised. If it's dying from something fungal though then most likely it's already spread throughout. Thing is, cutting one stem down won't cost all that much less than cutting two, so if you go down that route you effectively pay twice should the second stem need coming down. If you wait a bit then the final decision is really final. Like Mick says though, it's probably toast. I'm just working on the basis that you really don't want to cut it down or you'd have done that already , so give it every chance possible.
  12. I'd just wait another year. Larch is a durable wood so the dead won't fall to bits quickly like birch, if we have another hot dry summer will possibly finish it off but maybe it will be kinder. The areas which are dead will stay dead, but if the living parts come back stronger then you would eventually be able to just remove all deadwood and keep the tree. Otherwise it's back to plan a.
  13. We recently did EFAW + F which was 2 days, in reality 1.5 days plus a test session on second afternoon that was short. I was told by someone else there is also a FAW + F that is a 3 day and includes some more stuff like burns and minor injuries (so not just emergency response).
  14. Could dig the trench and pollard them, or even fell and leave stumps, in 10 years you'd have a pair of multistem trees nearly that big which have sorted themselves out a new root system. They are willows not ancient oaks, unlikely to be all that old anyway.
  15. Only had it since June, so we just used it raw wood then put it in shed. Think maybe oil when we get it out again.
  16. I've got a robinia table for the patio, think it's becoming more and more common for outdoor furniture. None of the wood is big, table top is small slats.
  17. I've worked this out carefully now, next one down from 7/32 should be 13/64 though? I'll call it 5.2 otherwise my brain hurts.
  18. Yew is famously slow growing, except when it's not. Had one bushy monster in a garden and the spec was flat top it back to gutter height, that needed the bar length of my 201 to do the stem. Growth rings 5mm or so like your one there.
  19. Yeah and weirdly I can think about bars in metric and imperial, happy that an .063 or 1.6 are the same - but have no idea what the file sizes are in imperial. Can only do files in metric.
  20. 5.5 is recommended by Oregon and Husqvarna for 3/8 chain. I just use the 5.2 for everything as started with Stihl and got a few boxes.
  21. I believe planning conditions are mainly intended to protect the trees from the builders during the development, but a planning condition continues to exist until it is "discharged". One of the options on planning portal is applying to discharge a condition, seems like another way for them to take a few quid off you but I think that would finish the protection. Be great to hear from someone more knowledgeable if there is a default time of expiry in the case that it's not stipulated in the condition.
  22. Fell off the table you were dancing on?
  23. That's going to be the biggest inverter I've ever seen!
  24. He pulled a fast one there didn't he! Bet he was hoping to quietly "mistakenly" take it home.
  25. That's really interesting, great to see it documented like that. I've a customer who has just had a wall built quite close to a tree, it's flood defence so I can see why they've gone ahead even though I pointed out the risk to roots. Think I will take a photo this summer as a baseline.

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