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Dan Maynard

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Everything posted by Dan Maynard

  1. Yes. Husqvarna seem to have a bit of a break at 28" or 70cm where they suggest you should change up to .404. I wouldn't bother for the sake of 2 inches, but I think you'll need to look elsewhere to find one eg chainsawbars.co.uk The max bar length you can run is kind of a design decision because manufacturers have to say something. In practical terms it comes down to the fact a longer bar needs more power, you'll probably have to be careful not to bog down a 565 on 30", whereas on say 24" it will cut strongly with the whole bar. It depends on the wood you're cutting too of course. Personally I wouldn't run near max bar length as I like the saw to rev and cut strongly, and it's a faster and more efficient way to cut. Some say 346 is one of the best saws ever, but not on a 20" bar. Put a 15 on and it will be light and nimble, and cut strongly.
  2. Rum all round. The TO wrote his comments on a Friday afternoon too " ... it is not considered that the removal of this stem would not have qualified as an exemption ..." So, putting the double negative together it is considered that it would have qualified as an exemption. Or at least that's the way I read it. ... and he can tell how tall a tree was from just the remaining cambium: "Estimating by the available living cambium a reduction of this stem by approximately 3m would have sufficed"
  3. Friday afternoon with a blunt saw type of coronet cut that. Purpose being to encourage decay in the base of the tree?
  4. Blast, got leylandii hedge removal to do Thursday.
  5. I'm hoping the cold snap will hold em off another week.
  6. You lose 4 or 6 inches of usable bar in the clamps of the mill, a 30" bar will be absolutely fine. You could go to 36" bar milling especially if you go lo-pro 3/8 which would need a different sprocket as well. It would cut faster if you bought a bigger saw but if not doing loads of milling then you have to work out whether you think it's worth it. 565 on 20 or 24" is probably more generally useful saw for other stuff.
  7. I didn't get past this bit, to me this pretty clearly says you need to make an application to the court and give them chance to be satisfied the rule below applies.
  8. My wife's aunt got some windows fitted recently in her utility room, she is what you might call extremely frugal so didn't want to run to the expense of double glazing but actually found double glazing was cheaper due to mass production. I guess unless you're going to make the frames from logs and glaze with putty then your material cost will be lower than the finished items.
  9. Glass isn't a brilliant conductor, if you don't go for double glazing then without consulting any tables I think the best you can do is the thickest you can find.
  10. You'll probably put your back out, but survive that. The tree is unlikely to survive the trauma though.
  11. The front eye is better, driver looking towards the tree. I've done it with the van but not a big fan, in my opinion it's a "middle of field" type of trick rather than urban. All a bit uncontrolled, much prefer winch attached to vehicle, or knock enough weight off the back that it falls forward on its own.
  12. We don't know who did it but we know how long the polesaw was.
  13. That kind of damage is where you start working out the value of your time vs the value of the chain that will be left once you've finished. I would suggest to get semi chisel chain to replace it, easier to bring back to cutting condition after you hit something hard.
  14. Quite possibly, we're Cambridgeshire (or Huntingdonshire when that was built). Owners are thinking about extending, Colt still have all the drawings to knock up extra sections.
  15. A pole saw will be a bit brutal, you would cut that size with a pole lopper operated with a string. It's going to be tricky to get the cuts as good working from the ground though. I would personally be on the ladder with secateurs for this, but I'd lanyard in so I can lean around and relax without worrying about the ladder falling.
  16. As soon as I see the trusty Transit tied to the tree I get worried. Why on earth did they take it on next to a road?
  17. I also read Lawson is supposed to smell like parsley, never really sure about that. To me it smells of the 1970s as they were everywhere when I was a kid.
  18. Surely that one is compliant? It's a 3 way ISC snap, not one of those old US steel ones. They don't last forever, and given the right whack will stick open, but that's another story.
  19. Based on the last one I bought, a Meteor piston will be 25 quid or so. I'd say worth doing that and keeping OEM cylinder rather than trying a mega cheap cylinder, it won't perform or last.
  20. I was talking to someone the other day who's friend exports part worn car tyres to Africa by the container load, I think you are right there's an opportunity there but you need some contacts to exploit it without being left high and dry.
  21. I've recently been asked to fell a tree because the insurance company stipulated no trees within 10m of the property. Seems bonkers to me but it's only a misshapen young willow so I guess least risk is to remove.
  22. For the simplest possible answer, I think you'd be better off just cutting the whole lot at ground level than at 10 feet, it will bush out loads of new shoots. This does mean that if you have a go a laying and don't like it, worst case is cut it all off and start again.
  23. The previous owners have cut off 30-40% of the tree's food (=leaves) in one hit. No wonder it's stressed. Personally I'd leave it be for a year or two, don't start cutting more leaves off till it has chance to get used to that.
  24. Don't know if that FB post is any good this time but they do come up. You can refurbish the winch anyway, new pawls and springs inside and good to go.
  25. https://www.facebook.com/groups/269475046595740/permalink/2159327570943802/?sale_post_id=2159327570943802&app=fbl

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