Jamie Jones

I have a Dolmar 7910 79cc chainsaw that run the D009 type of Bar with a Chain that has a Pitch 3/8" and a Chain Gauge of 0.058 ... I have been thinking about also getting a Dolmar 6100 60cc Chainsaw that runs a ??? bar and Chain Pitch 0.325 " and a Chain Gauge of 0.058 " I understand that it is possible to run the same type of chain as my 7910 chainsaw 3/8" - 0.058 on the 6100 chainsaw. Which will mean that I won't have to carry a second sharpening kit about.... So what will I need to do to be able to run bigger chain on the 6100? What type of bar style is on the 6100 and will the 6100 take a D009 style bar? If so will I have to do anything to get the 6100 to take the D009 bar? Will I need to change the drive sprocket? Will I need a different bar and if so what?

trespass.... Is a civil offence unless it is on government property..

I was wondering if anyone is using the 60cc Dolmar 6100 for forestry felling and wondered if you could give me some feed back? I have just done my CS32 felling course with the Dolmar 7910 80cc saw which chews through the tree truck awesomely quick for felling and logging. I was massively impressed with the saw.. But it is not the lightest of saws for limbing/snedding when you have to chuck that weight about about... So I was wondering if a 6100 would be a better saw to get your overall speed up as it would be lighter for flipping about when snedding which takes the most time... But It would obviously slower when felling.... I had thought about the Dolmar 7310 70cc chainsaw but that is the same chassis and weight as the bigger 7910 that I already have... The 6100 is on a smaller chassis ... So what are you forestry based Dolmar chainsaw users using for felling and snedding?

Hi Andrew The next course is Windblown and uprooted

opps double posted some how

Thanks Passed my CS32...... It is a monster of a Chainsaw and just chews through wood without any effort... Only down side to the 7910 is that it is a little heavy for Snedding... and a Dolmar 6100 might be a better option for that aspect.. Or.. I will just have to man up....?

The new Dolmar 7910 has been preforming well today?

Thanks for the reply... Done My CS30, CS31 and about to do my CS32... Yes I get the course notes... But wondered of there was a proper book that covers all the courses... As a good graphic book is always good to read as I would enjoy reading about other areas that I don't or won't be undertaking so that I have a broader base understanding of all aspects of the business. I agree that experience is always best... but it is good to have a broad understanding before doing the practical learning..

Has anyone on here got the Oregon Tool Belt, Harness and Holster Pouches kit? (Part No oregon 584147) If so are they any good and how do you get on with them? ... Any issues or problems? I am about to do my CS32 Forestry Felling ticket and need a good belt kit.... I have some of the Stihl pouches as they were the only option that was stocked locally.. But I don't seem that impressed with them... It may be because they are new and need some breaking in.. But I am not convinced that they will store kit securely.. If there are any other forestry felling belt kits that people rate please let me know... Pictures would also be helpful...

What book are you talking about? Is there a single book that covers everything in sections that an Arborist needs to Know? (From Small Domestic Felling, Forestry Felling, Wind Blown, Uprooted, Climbing, Arial Rescue, Tree Surgery, Pruning, Emergancy Works, Advanced Techniques Etc)

you will get almost two Makita/Domlar Saws to the price of the equivalent Stihl... But the back up won't be as good.... Much slower to get parts and dealers won't have spares on the shelf.... Where as most good Stihl Dealers hold a reasonable amount of basic spares. Makita UK are not that good for parts... I was looking for a spare parts back up for key items for my 7910 and it is like pulling teeth trying to get some parts.. For example: the Clutch Assembly for the 7910... The dealer got the price and tried to order it and was told it was not available and Makita could not source it.... Yeah Right... It is one of their latest spec pro machines that is in current production. If they don't have the parts how are they still building them? It is just poor service back up from Makita UK... Especially when you can get the parts from Germany and the States... Makita UK also don't seem to like to admit they they are Dolmar unless it helps them sell the Makita Blue Branded Versions... They seem to be very unhelpful with anything Dolmar. But thankfully Shavey (Andrew) on this forum has good contacts for getting stuff. https://arbtalk.co.uk/profile/33940-shavey/

Stihl's website shows 18"-25" length bars... See: https://www.stihl.co.uk/STIHL-Products/Chainsaws-and-Telescopic-Pole-Pruners/Petrol-chainsaws-for-forestry-work/279876-130/MS-462-C-M-Forestry-Chainsaw.aspx

If you wasn't tied into an existing brands system and could start a fresh which Chainsaw would you choose for Forestry Felling? Stihl MS462 or Husqvarna 565 or 572? (Both in the 70cc range)

Re: Others mentioning me... Feel free to contact me if you want.. I will send you my mobile number... Nimby... Thanks for the complement...

I have a Isuzu 2016 D-Max Utah Double Cab.... The truck is good but the dealer experience has been left wanting by a long shot... I will probably replace it with a Toyota Hilux when the time comes as I know they have better dealer support where I am.

Any suggestions/recommendations of suppliers for proper Arborist First Aid Kits and for the Trauma Coagulant Sprinkles & Bandage? Need to get a whole new first aid kit and my old one is now out of date and not really chainsaw friendly....

Any suggestions of suppliers for proper Arborist First Aid Kits and for the Trauma Coagulant Sprinkles & Bandage? Need to get a whole new first aid kit and my old one is now out of date and not really chainsaw friendly....

And the so called spending the money locally is a fallacy as the outside main contract keeps the reward and some people who get employed or contracted are working at base price..... So the local are doesn't keep the reward

On another note.. I am looking for opportunities to tender for work that is coming up in my area... I have spoken to the councils tendering officer who say that they welcome tenders from smaller local businesses. But as the conversation went on it became clear that the work was most likely going to be bundled into big chunks (often referred to as a 'Frame Work for' say Grounds Maintenance) in away that only a large company could tender for and in our area that is most likely going to be an outside bidder. This could then bar the local small business from tendering. The reality is that the local councils don't want to be dealing with the small contractors even if they could save a lot of money do so. IE you might bid say £ 100 a cut for the job because that is what you would charge. Where as the Big player might charge say £ 250.00 for the same job. They way they can use their own staff or sub it out to you. There is then extra money for their profit and also money to deal with all the rubbish that come with dealing with the local authority. And there is loads of it. You might also have to be CAS Registered which is where all your policies (regardless of if they hold any relevance) are up to date and acceptable. It is mainly for for the construction industry... But the council will apply it to you so that they don't have to check your policies. And yes this all costs you money... There are multiple equal opportunities policies, anti slavery policies, h&S policies, environmental policies, method statements, generic risk assessments, customer policies, employment policies, anti money laundering policies... and what ever else they want that is flavour of the week.... Plus criminal records checks on the contract provider and proof that you can afford to honour the contract financially. You almost have to double or triple your existing fees to do the job to cover everything that is required and factor in the harassment/hassle factor. Many companies under estimate this element and that is why so many companies that venture into local authority or government contracts go bust... And that is all before to factor in the element for cashflow and late, very late or non payment.

That pretty much sums it up.... You are basically taking over the contract of employment they (The employees) have with their old employer (IE You have to employ them as per their old contract) When you take these members of staff on they might come with long periods of service so you will have to honour they redundancy payments, sick payments, old school pensions (some older government pensions were good for the employees and some were final salary). What you also have to remember is that you might only have the contract for 1, 2, or 3 years before someone else gets it. Or they could pull a contract from you early with out someone else taking it over. Where I live the council and the contractor has gone separate ways (I don't know who is responsible for the breakup) and the local authority set up their own department and got their own staff. The old staff with the contractor have just been laid off... So if you are the new employer you could take a hit for paying someone redundancy of for 20 years service when they have only worked for you for a year or so, plus their pension... It focuses your mind a little when it is put that way.... It is only really the sort of thing that big companies can afford to take one.

What Tachometers are people using for tuning up Chainsaws?

Is this kit easy to fit? and what involved?

I used my 7910 on its first job today... I have to admit it was a bit over powered for what it was doing.... but it was good fun... I did have a small problem and it might be operator error.... The Chainsaw starts up bang on when you want it to from cold... But when I have been using it and then put it down for a bit to do some chipping and pick it up again. When I try to start it, it is a bit of a struggle to get it going again.. I have tried starting it in the following ways.... - Just pull starting it - Half Choke (choke pulled out and back in before pull starting) - Full Choke start and back to half choke start And yes I have ensured the stop switch was reset to allow it to start. Any advice on what I might be doing wrong?

Oooooowwww is that mine?

What sort of price can you supply this for? Am I correct that it's about 30cc?