Jamie Jones

So far I have been happy with my Dolmar PS6100 & PS 7910

it will be interesting to see what it costs.... Say it will take a 10-16" bar on a 3/8" chain AS4030Z 2 x 18 V battery chainsaw Very light top handle chainsaw with comparable performance to gasoline models. Only approved for professional users with special training. Technical specifications Battery system Li-Ion 2x18V Oil tank content 200 ml Battery capacity - Rail length 30 cm Chain 3/8 "| 1.1 mm Chain speed 20.0 m / s Weight (including battery and 5.1 kg cutting tool) Supplied without battery and charger Brushless motor for more endurance, longer life and more compact design For saw rails from 25 to 40 cm, also convertible to carving Standard with metal serrated edge Battery capacity indicator in the field of vision of the user Power amplifier increases the performance at particularly high demands at the press of a button. (Torque Boost Mode) Automatic oil pump with adjustable flow rate Large viewing window allows quick control of the oil level Loss-resistant nut for rail fastening XPT (Xtreme Protect Technology): Optimal protection against dust and splash water even in harsh conditions Very light top handle chainsaw with comparable performance to gasoline models Top-Handle chain saws are only approved for professional users with special training www.dolmar.de

I have been doing some youtube searches for this new double line climbing method to see how people manage it but I am struggling to find anyone climbing on two ropes. So I would be interested in how people are doing to be approaching this double rope climbing and what set-up they will be using. Especially as I am a new climber. Hmm... For me this is going to get complicated especially being a newbie... I use a petzl ZigZag set up (so 1x ZigZag, 2x petzl carabiners and a DMM Swivel) on my bridge. Along with a flipline (wire or rope depending on task). I have for better work positioning also invested in a Teufelberger 10m CElanyard / hipSTAR Flex (with 2x Pinto Pulleys/Ocean and 4x carabiner set up to create a double flipline for multi point anchoring). So with a 2x line setup and a strop line this is going to get very busy on my harness bridge and surely runs a higher risk or crossroading kit? I can see how this could work on big trees with large open areas to operate in. But there are many species of trees that don't give you this flexibility for moving around. So how are other more experienced climbers going to tackle this new working method?

I am sorry but I am not thick enough to need retraining every three years. If training companies want to do training on updated regulation aspects when there is big changes like what is being proposed then I would take advantage of that. But in the last year in have had to go from competent to qualified for many aspects of my business I now have over 20x NPTC City & Guilds qualifications. If I had to renew them at cost inc VAT every three years this would cost me over £ 8,000 and take out 3x months of working days. Sorry but this is unfeasable when self employed. Lets be clear I don't forget how to use a back pack blower, a walk behind mower, a ride on mower, a chipper, a chainsaw etc. If you are struggling and have the money to burn, or your forgetful then please feel free to redo all your tickets especially if you are paying for them. I don't mind redoing First Aid as new stuff is always coming out and the more practice you have the better as you don't actually practice this in any way unless there is an incident. Also on a cost basis it might be easier to add these costs and loss of earning if you are in affluent areas with minimal competition. But for those of us who are not price is always a major issue and many people simply can't afford this.

Bit of a sweeping statement that. In fairness even prussiks with a tending pulley are used in climbing championships that I have seen on youtube. Some times the old or simplest method can still be the best. That is the beauty of having choice... You get to choose what is right for you. I am fairly new to tree climbing (Some previous experience of rock climbing) and of an older age... So if they is a gizmo that will save wear & tear or fatigue on my body then I will spend the extra... But If you are in the tree and you are having a change of plan you can implement the traditional methods if your desired item is still in your kitbag back on the ground. Don't knock the traditional methods as the more complicated and technical you get the more opportunity there is for some thing to go wrong. Often Less Can Be More...

I stumbled across the Italian made Alpina Chainsaws while on the net and having never seen one I wondered are they a professional chainsaw and are they any good? (Seen pictures of the as Yellow or White Chainsaws)

Has anyone seen or got their hands on a Dolmar AS4030 18Vx2 (36V) Brushless Top Handle Chainsaw If so can you give us a review please? and does anyone know what the cost is? Makita Version Here: Depending on your country as to what it is called: Makita XCU08 / DUC356 / DUC306

Has anyone seen or got their hands on a: Dolmar AS4030 18Vx2 (36V) Brushless Top Handle Chainsaw or the Makita DUC356 18Vx2 (36V) Brushless Top Handle Chainsaw... If so can you give us a review please? and does anyone know if it is coming to the UK?

Firstly you have to establish what is and ins't an emergency..... What is the likelihood you will even get a call in the next ten years? Let be real if they have a need for tree work, will it be classed as an emergency? Because... Unless it is going to fall on a property, road, or a place where the public is. It can just be roped off and dealt with another time which means it is not an emergence and is classed as maintenance. They are then not covered. So you will find that only wind blown or uprooted threes that cause an immediate danger to people and property are covered. Lets say that the customer has a windblown tree and it has hit the property then it will be covered. I would say that you would need to photograph and document the situation and the cause of action needed to prove it was in need of immediate attention to prevent further damage, risk to life or to allow work men to effect repairs. You need to Estimate/Quote the customer and get them to sign an agreement before you do any work. In this Estimate/Quote that forms an agreement you need to cover your own back. with clauses like: - The customer indemnifies you from an further damaged caused in tackling the problem as trees are unpredictable. - Your contract is with the customer and not any third party (ie insurance party). This is because if the insurance company doesn't pay you or drags their heals in making payment then it is not your problem and that is the customers problem. You have to remember some customers may not have the money to pay you and will simply pass the bill on to their insurance company for them to pay you... I would suggest that you increase the cost of the work with a prompt payment discount. This is because insurance companies are notoriously slow at paying out and they want you to work for unreasonably cheap fees as well. So don't let them bully you as they will try it on and try and get you to reduce your bill to their fixed rates. This is a key reason why you clearly have the customer as your client and not the insurance company. It can also prompt the customer or their insurance company to settle quickly to avoid increased costs. I would suggest that you also avoid trying to deal with the clients insurance company because it implies that you aknowledge they are the client agent. This can damage your claim against the customer when chasing none payment. So you should always chase the customer for payment and not their insurance company.

Lets say you buy £ 100 work of wood. This would be reflected in your accounts as material costs and will be shown as stock on your accounts ledger. Lets say you have a quick'ish turn around and sell it all within a couple of months. Lets say that you sold it for £ 140.... This means that you have the following: - £ 100 as an out going that is classed as stock: + £ 140 as income. ------- = £ 40 as profit... You would therefore be taxed on £ 40 as profit Now if you hold stock and it has not be sold in this tax year you will claim £ 100 against your tax bill as an outgoing that will be help in your stock column and it is classed as an asset. - If you then sell it in the next tax year (for the same £ 140) you will then be taxed on the full £ 140 because you have already claimed £ 100 of it in the previous years tax. I hope that is clear

Well I have gone with the echo?

I hear the above is correct but is is also down tunes slightly in that it revs slightly less to meet the new emissions regs. which is a little concerning Asti will bog down easier. i have made the decision to opt for the older 360 over the newer version..

Thanks for the feed back... I have a CS2511..... Is the gap between the two not big enough to justify.. Just felt that a 35cc with a 12" or 14" Bar would be much better than the 25cc with a 10" bar..

Is there one you prefer out of the two?

It is here: CS-362TES WWW.ECHOTOOLS.COM ECHO is a manufacturer of high quality outdoor equipment including chainsaws, brushcutters, trimmers, power... But I have been told that it should be in UK dealers when I FB messaged Echo UK from their Saltex facebook posting. I was hoping that someone would have an early release...

Yes it is the new version of the 360

Has anyone got the new ECHO CS-362 TES top handle chainsaw? Is the ECHO CS-362 TES any good? If so, what has the ECHO CS-362 TES got over the ECHO CS-360 TES as the spec look simular?

Might be worth trying to find out if you can get funding to train up one of your own guys... In Wales there is funding for training.. Your nearest training centre will know if there is any funding.. City & Guilds will be able to tell your where your training centres are: 0247 685 7300. It might also be an idea to contact all the training centres in Scotland and they will have the contact details of people who have qualified and will have an email contact list. They might email out a job opportunity for you. If you are still struggling because there is no funding in Scotland and there are not people entering the industry as a result. Then you could email the Welsh training centres as I know there are a number of people who have been funded to enter Arborist industry. I am sure that they want to keep these people in Wales... But if there is a good person looking for work I am sure they would want to build up some experience. Especially if there is some help with accommodation. The people who help fund training in Wales are a company called. 1) Focus on Forestry First: Focus on Forestry First WWW.FOCUSONFORESTRYFIRST.CO.UK Two of the Training Centres Are: 2) MWMAC Ltd: mwmac Ltd | Training & Assessment Centre for the Land-Based Industries in Wales, the UK and Europe. WWW.MWMAC.CO.UK mwmac Ltd is a leading Welsh Training & Assessment Centre for the Land-Based Industries in Wales, the UK and Europe. Talk to: Katie Coles I hope that helps..

I think that when there is bigger money off shore and people can also earn that sort of money behind a desk, then you struggle to get people who will do that type of work when there is more risk. I think this is because we as a society is now so risk adverse that. There is also an issue when you look at the cost to get qualified. I have done all my ground qualifications and my climbing & rope rescue. I will now be adding all my other 'up in a tree' qualifications. The total cost for all that inc VAT will be about £ 9,000.00 and you don't even get a degree. It will also take the same amount of time to get qualified in all aspects as it would to get the degree. There is also the cost of kit to add into that. So in many peoples eyes you are not a professional person with out a degree. So I would guess that many parents would steer there kids in a different direction.

I am about to do my qualification in the 'Use of a Chainaaw from a Rope & Harness (Aerial Cutting of Trees with a Chainsaw using Freefall Techniques) and as a newbie I wondered what top handle chainsaw people use or would recommend. Looking for quality of build, reliability, ease of use and general performance in the tree. All Advice Welcome...

How long have you had the Breathflex Pro compared to the straight Breathflex?

Advice Needed: What is the Best Type C Trousers for Climbing Just done my Tree Climbing and Aerial Rescue Training and I will be moving on to doing the Aerial Chainsaw (Top Handle) Use and I need to get a good pair of Type C Chainsaw Trouser. I am currently looking at the following that have been recommended to me by a dealer: a) Stihl Advance X-Flex Chainsaw Trousers Type C (Good Price and Felt Comfortable) b) SIP Innovation Canopy W-Air Chainsaw Trousers Black/Orange c) Husqvarna Technical C Waist Trousers (Very competitively priced) d) Arbortec Breatheflex Lime Chainsaw Trousers - Type C - Class 1 But I really want advice from people who are wearing Type C trousers all the time while climbing all year around and have owned different brands. One of the problems I see is that none of the dealers anywhere near me stock all the brands to be able to compare them against each other. What I am after is the advice on what is: The trousers are most comfortable... What the most flexible and least restrictive when climbing... What is hard wearing and long lasting... etc....

They seem to say that autos are now the preferred choice for towing for most pickups these days. I still like to choose my own gears

Very nice and very clean.... Obviously this picture was taken when it was brand new or it is the family motor.... I can't keep a work vehicle looking that good...

Thanks for all the responses to this topic... It has been most helpful.... I have chosen to go for a Ford Ranger 3.2 Wildtrack (manual).