bmp01
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Everything posted by bmp01
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Put it back together with some Loctite, it'll be fine ? (...or not). I tried separating a knackered crank once (MS180) just for interest, tried all sorts of abuse, mostly involving hammers, couldn't shift it at all. You've been unlucky there. Vaguely remember some story about tuned 2 stroke bike engines being assembled and then welded to stop the crank becoming misaligned with use. Don't suppose you need too many degrees of rotation before the crank would seize on a multi cylinder.
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But that wouldn't be truthful. ... I got loadsa 200T bits .... they is blinkin stuck together in one lump. Might be available for an elevated ebay price....?
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Does anyone have. ... Or, Has anyone got. .... But not, "Does anyone got. ..." ??? bmp01
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Threads in cylinder for the exhaust bolts look a bit suspect too, might need helicoiling... Same logic as above, fix it properly now or it will be unreliable just when you need it.
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The carb on the 170 / 180 is completely different to the 171 / 181 / 211. The latter are strato engines and their carbs have 2 ports through them, 1 fuel and air, 2 air only...... (They already have Hi and Lo fuel screws).
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Ditto, I really like the old school design and feel of this saw. I think I've now ironed out all the gremlins left behind by previous owners. ..
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Carbs on these have an accelerator circuit that turns to sh1t on well used examples....
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Bought a DSC6800i for 50 quid as a non runner, that needed a fuel line. Good condition saw too. Still haven't found a saw in a skip though.
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...engine too small to drive the chain, buy a bigger, pro model saw....
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So thats the whole point. .... Going to 8 tooth will increase chain speed by a multiple of 8/7 but it will reduce the torque by the same ratio. As is the way, you can't have something for nothing.
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On an 8 tooth sprocket ?
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Whether it cuts faster or not with 8 tooth will be dependant on a multitude of factors. Most important will be if you've got enough torque from the engine for the bar length you are using. A 260 with 8 tooth 3/8 maybe ok on 12 - 14 inch bar in soft wood, don't expect it to cope well with longer bar or hard wood. Also I'll state the blinkin obvious, you will need to change chain, sprocket and bar with a pitch change (nose sprocket in bar is pitch dependant). Have fun with it.
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As above. Sawbits - M Jones - goes by the name of tesgol on e bay. His listing there is consistently VEC, origin India and no mention of Hyway. He must have hundreds of products listed - easy to make a gaff when cut 'n paste and editing. .... or maybe he changed source for that part. Worth an ask. Genuine piston price? ... about what I paid for the 'spares or repair' concrete saw in the first place?. Barrel has cleaned up ok 2 scores but not deep. It's getting an after market piston and liking it (for personal building project use) or its going for bits.
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Yet another seized 2 stoke. ... ? Out of these two piston brands, which would you go for, Hyway (China) or VEC (India)? Price is more or less the same, I can't find a Meteor... L and S also do one but it's a no name piston. I'm leaning towards VEC but for no good reason. I'm hoping the answer of which brand might be useful to people here but I should state the piston is for a Makita concete saw DPC6410. And yeah, split impulse line probably... Thanks for any input. BMP01
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Was that Bumstead or Bumsteer ..... ?
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Yep. Wires in the air have no insulation on them. Have a look at where the wires are held, you'll see a isolator between wire and support. Proper scary stuff. ....
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Don't think so, he said "No" to the top handle....
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Google (or t'other search engine or your choice), type in " Arbtalk battery saw " You'll get plenty of hits and answers straight away. In particular Battery chainsaw recomendation was done quite recently..... HTH.
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Blimey Wonky, I bet the performance of the saw was a bit up and down. .. How long did it run for - do you think - to create that amount of damage? And errr, was the nut a bit loose by any chance ??? BMP01
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Outdoor Power Equipment forum.... American forum, mad keen on tuning amongst other stuff. I believe the forum is moderated by / run by / owned by (delete as appropriate) a well respected tuning guy....
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Why does saw go better with a bit more advance ? Here's my go at a simple explanation. ... 1) There's an optimum igntion advance for performance. 2) What's optimum for one engine might be too much for another dependant on engine tolerances, engine maintenance, bad fuels, bad tuning., etc, etc 3) Manufacturers don't like their saws exploding, gives them a bad reputation, sales don't do too well, so they design in a bit of safety and retard the ignition a bit. 4) Advancing the ignition a small amount is just getting back to optimum.
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I asked Matt the same question via the old messaging system. I think he was happy with it. He did some YouTube videos of it, I don't have the link he sent me any more but going by the dates on this thread and a quick search on YouTube I think this was it. ... h t t p s://youtu.be/l_1Jkg7AWWI (remove the obvious gaps in https, if I put it in correctly it auto plays!) Very difficult to judge the saws cutting performance, wood type, chain condition blar, blar, but it seems pretty responsive. Saw was obviously far from new at the outset. Matt told me he was visiting other chainsaw sites, American, for most of his saw tuning games, don't know if he's still on here. ... HTH.
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If I'm understanding you correctly that sounds pretty good to me. The idea of squish band is to squish the gas mixture towards the centre of the cylinder, to promote good turbulence and rapid combustion. What you don't want is "end gas" stuck down the end of a narrow passageway where the combustion struggles to get to, that would be a waste of energy and won't do much for performance. You will get this if the squish band is too deep (radially). Edit: whether 3mm is the right number is one for the experienced tuners, I think I would punt for a slightly bigger number, say 5 or 6mm, depends somewhat on bore size and the combustion chamber shape.
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Agreed, a big flywheel can't increase the torque of the engine. But a fast spinning flywheel has more energy than the same flywheel spinning slower. So for a short period of time the output from an engine and flywheel assembly can be more than the constant speed output of the engine. ... its just that during that time the engine and flywheel will be slowing down. That might be perceived as 'more torque' by the user. A good example of this on a chainsaw is if you're unsympathatic with the saw at the start of a cut, or maybe if you hit a bit of hard wood. A saw with a big flywheel will drop its speed but if the time is short it might clear the obstacle, while a saw with a small flywheel has less stored energy to devote to the cause and bogs down. (Same as the trials car). It's the store energy that counts. Can't remember the formulae, but maybe that's just as well
