bmp01

Good pictures by the way ?

Yeah, that's not too good. But also not a complete disaster, as these things go it's a light seize. Really depends how you value your time whether you fix it or bin it. In my opinion there's a very good chance the cylinder will clean up, new piston and ring assembly required if you want to do it right. The engine is not a clamshell design so pretty easy to get the cylinder off. As stated by Spud, you need to think about why its done that in the first place, otherwise it will repeat itself. Could be bad fuel, could be fuel lines or carb. Could also be crankcase seals. You might want to do a bit of research to see what you're up against. HTH.

Well bugger me, just had a play and its actually not all bad. Walbro carb with purge bulb, 160 psi compression cold and some nutter has fitted a new plug and done a muffler mod on it (must remember to value my time better). I dumped the fuel, added some fresh, purged it though and it popped on the first pull. Choke in and it started next pull. Compression was still 150 psi hot, (must have had a new ring surely?) Ok so the AV system let's the vibration through and its probably not got the power of a decent saw but not all bad.

Spud - here you go chap, this is what a Mitox 4116 looks like ? Dammed thing made my hand dirty when I dragged it out from where it was, been there that long. And yes, it was broken and free and I got suckered into fixing it. Part seized, it didn't get any new bits, just the rough edges smoothing off - and that means I can't flog it as a runner really, not worth the aggro.

A bit more time to explain - the 'easy start' thing is just a torsion spring that goes between the pull cord pulley and the engine flywheel, its like the spring used to retract the pull cord only bigger in all dimensions. It's purpose is to smooth out the resistance you feel when you pull the starter cord. Which means you won't feel the engine reaching compression, it will just feel soggy. Personally, I hate it. And it's another thing to break. On the plus side, the theory is that once the engine has gone past compression once the spring releases is energy quickly so the engine is rotating faster during the next firing cycle. .... maybe. .... None of this says your saw isn't broken. But if it pops with some fuel mix down the plug hole I'd say there is some hope. You might be into carb cleaning or fuel line issues. Let us know what the piston is like, a picture will allow a proper judgement. HTH, bmp01

The 4116 i looked at had 'easy start' spring mechanism. It just might be ok even if it feels like it doesn't have compression. Pull the muffler off and check piston as said earlier. ...

I'm not a battery person but my battery drills used to be NiCad and NiMH and we're invariably 'flat' when left for any length of time (Makita, Bosch bought new and not cheap crap). Converted to Li-Ion and wot-d-ye-no always ready to use and much lighter to boot. Much impressed by this battery type.

Here's some back ground reading for you. https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/topic/65438-mac-cat-839/ You can also use the search feature on here. A couple of points and a start...: -If isn't garbage already, it soon will be if you run it on neat petrol and not 2 stroke mix. Google why you need 2 stroke mix. -The easy start shows the ignition system and engine compression are probably OK, not 100% guaranteed though. -Smoke from a running engine is just as likely from too much fuel (as it is from oil in the fuel). -A crude compression test - pick the saw up by the pull start cord, if it unwinds the cord quick its knackered. If it unwinds the cord slowly with a series of resistances over 15 seconds or more your in luck. Try this with the plug out, you'll see what no compression is like. -If you want to see if bar oil is leaking into fuel tank, empty fuel out, leave oil in. See if the empty fuel tank fills with oil. -I'd try this, plug out - is it wet with fuel? Continue with the plug out, pull the engine over dozen times with choke off and throttle open - gives it a clear out. Dry the plug and if posible warm up the sparky end with blow torch/gas hob. Drop a couple of cc's of fuel mix down the plug hole, fit the hot plug in a hurry and see if it goes (without choke). You can do this over a few times if you want but if it won't run like this for a second or 2 it could be back to the hand saw time. Good luck.

Sounds good, prolly ought to make a deduction for alcohol consumed at home. ... luckily for me its home brew cider which cost next to zero (can't be arsed to factor in capital expenditure).... hic....

Interested in seeing what makes a 150t tick - '3x150t in bits' if you think I can build 1 saw from them.

Maybe you crudded up your 'good' carb. Old fuel, dirt - filter or fuel line fault in the non runner saw introduced crap into good carb ? Back at the start, you said you can't get the non runner to run on a bit of fuel down the spark plug hole, if that's case I'd focus on that first. Fresh fuel, strong spark, decent pull - it ought to run how ever briefly. That's assuming decent compression. For comparison, what compression did you get on your running saw with that same compression gauge? You can go one step simpler and use easy start spray if you have some. You can heat the spark plug out of the saw, it might help marginal mixture. Go with a new plug anyway, quick/cheap. Check the spark is a decent one, can it jump a 4-5 mm gap ? Has the flywheel spun on the crank giving wrong spark timing ? With the running saw you need to visit the carb and fuel system for a general overhaul by the sounds of it. HTH.

You know it's a 2 stroke engine ? You better do a little bit of home work about the fuel and oil mixture required for 2 stroke engines. Maybe you have the owners manual with the saw, time to have a read. 25:1 is the ratio of petrol to oil that a lot of chinese manufacturers recommend.

I think Darwin gave up and moved on. Not judging the poster of thread .... he might not be paying enough attention to what people say but he was working with some logic. But yeah, in general, Darwin definitely has his hands tied with modern day safety .... shame really its not for the best, just means the human race gets progressively more stupid.

And that's not a good thing as far as this threads concerned ???

And there's the clue. How fresh is the fuel ? Do you drain fuel and run saw dry before storing ? Evaporated fuel causes havoc with carburettors but as its still runnIng you might get lucky with fresh super unleaded and semi synthetic 2 stoke oil.

Police were too busy before, new role plus some of the force self isolating = crime increase. There will be illegal immigrants who did cash in hand jobs and now cant, no benefit payout = hunger and crime. I bet theres no problem shifting stolen goods in trucks. Look after your kit, but don't get hurt in confrontation - hospital is the wrong place to be right now.

Had the exact opposite of this on my Makita DCS6800i. The thing kept stalling, I'd wind the idle screw in a bit more and 2 minutes later it would stall again, I was convinced a bearing was eating itself up. This repeated over and over, would have been hilarious to watch the grumpiness unfolding. Finally twigged the idle screw wasnt wound in as far as it should have been - given the number of quarter turns it had up to that point.... Tillotsen carb on that, idle screw and thread in carb seemed fine. Think I deformed the thread in the carb to add a bit of friction, been good since.

I did this too, for a big end failure engine. Not the best quality maybe, strangely the clone engine seemed to vibrate a lot more - I'm guessing they don't have the crank balance weights quite right ....

All good info. I do wonder why Stovax went for 5mm though. As stated 5mm is not something people stock. I agree the glass needs to be able to move in the surround but here's something to ponder : this stove glass has a very low expansion compared to normal glass which already has a low expansion - if it's mounted in a cast iron (or steel) door which has a massive expansion rate in comparison to normal glass what happens when the stove heats up ? I'd wager the frame expands more than the glass .... Not that it makes any difference, still got to let the glass move. I plan to support the weight of the glass on thick glass fibre pads (2 off), new glass fibre seal and use the screw clamps just to stop the glass from wobbling about - little or no pressure. Currently the glass weight is taken by clamping the glass tight enough to stop it sliding down....

Nice one, thanks for that. The steel sheet thing, yeah, i had that thought - comforting to realise I could get it working if need be. Cheers,

Chaps, Well, I've darn gone and busted the glass in the stove..... lack of maintenance I reckon, not changed the sealing rope in 15 years and now I'm gonna pay for it. So, it's a Stovax Huntingdon 35, glass is 390 wide by 305 tall, with quite a pronounced curve to the top edge. -Direct from manufacturer is 80 pounds plus delivery and is on back order. -Supplied by Calfire, supposed to be Schott Robax material, is 40 pounds. Sounds like a no brainer until you look at glass thickness, Stovax is 5mm thick Schott Robax 4mm. Thoughts, anyone had direct experience of replacing stove glass, where to buy etc. Also is it worth polishing the edges to get rid of 'crack here' nasty finishes? Thanks, bmp01

Here's a post taken from the above thread regarding throttle linkage operation that might be useful to your our your mechsnically minded friend. .... "Its a weird setup on these... the link is made to twist when you pull the trigger, the link is bent into a shape so that it acts as a cam which pushes on the carb lever. Twisting the link can take out play.... The wire link wears, the nylon block on the carburettor arm wears and the throttle rod can become dislodged from its location in the handle, then you only get half throttle movement. My favourite hate is the cover for the throttle trigger with its protruding piece of plastic that keeps the linkage located in the handle - it's often broken off during reassembled. Result is notchy, half throttle movement. There have been several threads on here about this, new cover fixes the problem until the next time its taken apart and subsequently broken....." To reiterate: a small twist of the throttle rod can take out the play in the mechanism.

Read this thread on another 211 doing the same, read it again .... https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/topic/118620-stihl-ms211c-problem-with-power-in-the-cut/ And note the only thing that moved this on to something that people could understand and offer sensibIe advice about was posting a video of the saw misbehaving. Took several requests for a video there, guess it'll be the same here. What is your location ?

Divots in the cylinder surface are one thing; bumps on the running surface are another kettle of fish entirely. Some of that damage is going to cause a few bumps for the piston and rings to run over. I'd be surprised if you could hone it round without going through the bore coating.

In the first post you said "I have another cylinder, but that looks buggered on the lips of the ports" does that damage match the damage on the piston? It's quite surprising there is no damage to the crankcase internals (if something got ingested by the engine). Still, looks like it'll go back together ok, agree with new piston ... Meteor piston rings are Caber rings I believe, no problems there. You don't get a gudgeon pin bearing in the Meteor kit so yes, Stihl for that. And Stihl for the clips, cheap insurance.