bmp01

Sounds good, prolly ought to make a deduction for alcohol consumed at home. ... luckily for me its home brew cider which cost next to zero (can't be arsed to factor in capital expenditure).... hic....

Interested in seeing what makes a 150t tick - '3x150t in bits' if you think I can build 1 saw from them.

Maybe you crudded up your 'good' carb. Old fuel, dirt - filter or fuel line fault in the non runner saw introduced crap into good carb ? Back at the start, you said you can't get the non runner to run on a bit of fuel down the spark plug hole, if that's case I'd focus on that first. Fresh fuel, strong spark, decent pull - it ought to run how ever briefly. That's assuming decent compression. For comparison, what compression did you get on your running saw with that same compression gauge? You can go one step simpler and use easy start spray if you have some. You can heat the spark plug out of the saw, it might help marginal mixture. Go with a new plug anyway, quick/cheap. Check the spark is a decent one, can it jump a 4-5 mm gap ? Has the flywheel spun on the crank giving wrong spark timing ? With the running saw you need to visit the carb and fuel system for a general overhaul by the sounds of it. HTH.

You know it's a 2 stroke engine ? You better do a little bit of home work about the fuel and oil mixture required for 2 stroke engines. Maybe you have the owners manual with the saw, time to have a read. 25:1 is the ratio of petrol to oil that a lot of chinese manufacturers recommend.

I think Darwin gave up and moved on. Not judging the poster of thread .... he might not be paying enough attention to what people say but he was working with some logic. But yeah, in general, Darwin definitely has his hands tied with modern day safety .... shame really its not for the best, just means the human race gets progressively more stupid.

And that's not a good thing as far as this threads concerned ???

And there's the clue. How fresh is the fuel ? Do you drain fuel and run saw dry before storing ? Evaporated fuel causes havoc with carburettors but as its still runnIng you might get lucky with fresh super unleaded and semi synthetic 2 stoke oil.

Police were too busy before, new role plus some of the force self isolating = crime increase. There will be illegal immigrants who did cash in hand jobs and now cant, no benefit payout = hunger and crime. I bet theres no problem shifting stolen goods in trucks. Look after your kit, but don't get hurt in confrontation - hospital is the wrong place to be right now.

Had the exact opposite of this on my Makita DCS6800i. The thing kept stalling, I'd wind the idle screw in a bit more and 2 minutes later it would stall again, I was convinced a bearing was eating itself up. This repeated over and over, would have been hilarious to watch the grumpiness unfolding. Finally twigged the idle screw wasnt wound in as far as it should have been - given the number of quarter turns it had up to that point.... Tillotsen carb on that, idle screw and thread in carb seemed fine. Think I deformed the thread in the carb to add a bit of friction, been good since.

I did this too, for a big end failure engine. Not the best quality maybe, strangely the clone engine seemed to vibrate a lot more - I'm guessing they don't have the crank balance weights quite right ....

All good info. I do wonder why Stovax went for 5mm though. As stated 5mm is not something people stock. I agree the glass needs to be able to move in the surround but here's something to ponder : this stove glass has a very low expansion compared to normal glass which already has a low expansion - if it's mounted in a cast iron (or steel) door which has a massive expansion rate in comparison to normal glass what happens when the stove heats up ? I'd wager the frame expands more than the glass .... Not that it makes any difference, still got to let the glass move. I plan to support the weight of the glass on thick glass fibre pads (2 off), new glass fibre seal and use the screw clamps just to stop the glass from wobbling about - little or no pressure. Currently the glass weight is taken by clamping the glass tight enough to stop it sliding down....

Nice one, thanks for that. The steel sheet thing, yeah, i had that thought - comforting to realise I could get it working if need be. Cheers,

Chaps, Well, I've darn gone and busted the glass in the stove..... lack of maintenance I reckon, not changed the sealing rope in 15 years and now I'm gonna pay for it. So, it's a Stovax Huntingdon 35, glass is 390 wide by 305 tall, with quite a pronounced curve to the top edge. -Direct from manufacturer is 80 pounds plus delivery and is on back order. -Supplied by Calfire, supposed to be Schott Robax material, is 40 pounds. Sounds like a no brainer until you look at glass thickness, Stovax is 5mm thick Schott Robax 4mm. Thoughts, anyone had direct experience of replacing stove glass, where to buy etc. Also is it worth polishing the edges to get rid of 'crack here' nasty finishes? Thanks, bmp01

Here's a post taken from the above thread regarding throttle linkage operation that might be useful to your our your mechsnically minded friend. .... "Its a weird setup on these... the link is made to twist when you pull the trigger, the link is bent into a shape so that it acts as a cam which pushes on the carb lever. Twisting the link can take out play.... The wire link wears, the nylon block on the carburettor arm wears and the throttle rod can become dislodged from its location in the handle, then you only get half throttle movement. My favourite hate is the cover for the throttle trigger with its protruding piece of plastic that keeps the linkage located in the handle - it's often broken off during reassembled. Result is notchy, half throttle movement. There have been several threads on here about this, new cover fixes the problem until the next time its taken apart and subsequently broken....." To reiterate: a small twist of the throttle rod can take out the play in the mechanism.

Read this thread on another 211 doing the same, read it again .... https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/topic/118620-stihl-ms211c-problem-with-power-in-the-cut/ And note the only thing that moved this on to something that people could understand and offer sensibIe advice about was posting a video of the saw misbehaving. Took several requests for a video there, guess it'll be the same here. What is your location ?

Divots in the cylinder surface are one thing; bumps on the running surface are another kettle of fish entirely. Some of that damage is going to cause a few bumps for the piston and rings to run over. I'd be surprised if you could hone it round without going through the bore coating.

In the first post you said "I have another cylinder, but that looks buggered on the lips of the ports" does that damage match the damage on the piston? It's quite surprising there is no damage to the crankcase internals (if something got ingested by the engine). Still, looks like it'll go back together ok, agree with new piston ... Meteor piston rings are Caber rings I believe, no problems there. You don't get a gudgeon pin bearing in the Meteor kit so yes, Stihl for that. And Stihl for the clips, cheap insurance.

That piston was running in that cylinder you say. ... But my money says that piston wasn't running in that cylinder when it got damaged, how can the piston have got repetitive impact damage and the cylinder get away no damage? So what's this other cylinder, where did it come from ? Reuse the cylinder with a bit of glaze busting and go for a new piston for peace of mind.

One of these guess the saw games, first one to get it right pays the postage on the double bagger and gets a heap to sort out?

That would be very much appreciated, hopefully it'll confirm where I'm at. ... Clean machine eh, someone's spoiling you ! Thank you mister.

Thanks for that eye opener, had blindly believed chain speed was function of engine speed and no. of teeth on sprocket. But now you come to mention it ....

Time for a bit of an update after running the saw today. This is first run since crank seal replacement and frigging with ignition timing after shearing the flywheel key (weather and access to field). Things I've learnt: Coil is unlimited as far as I can tell, I saw 13250pm on the tacho once while settting the high speed. Coil has no spark advance curve, constant tIming above idle speed. Piston stop method of finding TDC gave me exactly the same result as using a piece of wire in the exhaust port - but it is simpler, less juggling. Sadly I didn't get to check ignition timing before stripping the key out the flywheel. My best estimate of standard ignition timing is 19 degs BTDC. I've advanced timing to 25 degs BTDC, engine seems quite happy, no nasty noises or signs of impending doom. It has had 4 tanks through it today whilst milling oak, 28" bar with 22.5" max cut, (need longer bar...). Engine runs pretty strong, I'd like to think a little stronger than before but no hard evidence to support this. Starting is more precarious, starter rope was ripped from my hands half a dozen times; it doesnt seem quite as willing to start. And that's about it, I'll stick with the 25 degs of advance for now, the starting issues being the limiting factor for me.

Err yeah, its hot because there are twice as many bangs going on inside the cylinder when its 2 stroking rather than 4 stroking. And as you're reving the engine a good deal faster than before thats probably another 50 %. So maybe 3 times the heat input. Smoke will be the acumulation of oils (from rebuild and chain oil) burning off, probably less smoke next time. Proper chain sharpening = faster cutting. As Stubby says, get a sharpening guide, you will thank him once you've tried a sharp chain. It can't be emphasised enough the benefit of a sharp chain with correct cutting angles. The saw will stop bouncing about, you won't need to push on the bar to get it to cut, there will be less wear and tear on you and the saw. The key to it is the 'Top plate angle'. To get that angle right you need to have the round file at exactly the right height relative to the top of the tooth, (which the guide does for you). 4.0 or 4.5 files will make a small or no difference if the heights wrong. Have a look at 'chainsawbars' sharpening here: https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/chain-sharpening/

Maybe. Have you got a walk through for changing the oil pump just in case? Hopefully just chain tension - couldn't see any blueing on the bar. But slightly intrigued by the tops of some of the teeth which did have a bit of colour. That saw's not going to know what's hit it when it runs right, probably grenade itself in panic (well, lets hope not).

Picture paints a thousand words, video even better. In addiion to whats been said it looks like by the end of your demo the saw wouldnt reach 'high' revs out of the cut... it started out reving piss poorly but by the end the engine is labouring so badly it hardly has enough power to turn the chain even when its not cutting. I could be wrong, cant tell what you are doing with the throttle but the sound says its trying but can't do it - like the chain brake is part locked on, or the chain in is exceptionally tight. Just look how quick the chain comes to a halt, it's almost locked up... If you repeat that exercise and turn the engine off, can you turn the chain by hand? Hot is it? I totally agree with Spuds view but I'd say you've got some sort of chain or chain brake issue too. Oh and the choke mechanism on these is on a par with the thottle linkage.... With age they jam and/or break.