bmp01

Looks like there should be some thing on the bar - if you zoom in on exploded parts diagram there is something there but it's not at all clear. Something like a bolt shank ? Are you still using the original bar? Other than that, I guess you wind back the spring lever widget thingee while fitting the side cover over the bar studs then release the spring to push against the feature in the bar ..... All a bit of a punt, not seen one like this before. bmp01

If you could do the lottery with as much accuracy as that you could forget that exit plan of yours, and most other plans for matter. Spot on re carb spec. On the eBay thing, appreciate comment. I agree, but I'm a bit too controlling, I'd like to know it's not selling for peanuts. With the best offers option I get to decide, had 350 and 360 offered but those are ebay pounds not real pounds - robbing sods. There's no rush and no fees at present.

Thank you for the replies. Spud, thanks Mister, I like your first 2 numbers, last one less so. It's about what I hoped. Not sure about the investment theory guys, better value in using it as a money making tool surely. That's for someone with better ability than me. Just to add, I had it pointed out to me its a USA spec saw with the green label on handle (pictures didn't catch that). That is quite correct, maybe that accounts for the exhaust spec. I also noted, while fitting a new fuel line, the carb doesn't have an accelerator circuit - no hole below the throttle spindle anyway ??? Its a proper Stihl carb though so that can only be a good thing IMHO. Thanks again.

G'day, I have a little used MS200T in good condition that occupies space, doesn't get used. I've had it more years than I care to remember, used it a bit shortly after I got it I soon realised a small back handle was the preferred option when used in the woods, on my own and 1/2 mile from the nearest house. Been stored with either no fuel or Stihl long life fuel, gets fired up every once in a while without trouble. I'll put a new fuel line on it anyway. This is the advert I put on e_bay MS200T in exceptional condition for year basically because I haven't used it ! Bar is the original light weight 14" version, a little paint loss but next to no wear. Chain is the original, 1/3 used 2/3 rds left. Starts, runs, chain brakes as it should. Engine Compression measures 165 psi Pictures below, what's it worth on here do we think? Thanks for opinions.... bmp01

Emmm, I must admit I think there is an element of truth in the fresh fuel story but I think it's a limited effect. I mean - it's reasonable to expect some subtances to dissolve in liquids such as acetone, white spirit, petrol even and especially carb cleaner. And as some of the gunge left in carbs etc originally came from petrol its probably reasonable to expect a small fraction of it to dissolve back into the fuel especially if the fuel has components designed to clean the fuel system. I started using super unleaded Shell years ago for exactly this reason, supposed to be a bit more aggressive compared to unleaded. It does help but it's not a cure all, as a first punt its an obvious thing to do. If it helps and equipment is used frequently there after, maybe you get away with the 'fix' as the carb doesn't get further cruded up. But you you've had the warning somethings up, you are running the risk of it reoccurring and you run the risk of equipment seizing if the fueling ain't right. Can't make sense for the pro to chance it with potential rebuild costs, down time and lost earnings. And for a repair service supporting the above or any other industry your reputation isn't going to be worth shit in the long run, sending out kit which may or may not work 2 minutes down the line.

Surprising, but anyway all's good if the problem has gone away. Glad your up and running. bmp01

Two thefts in as many months ??? This is beyond ridiculous...... sorry to hear it.

A heads up for anyone near Leighton Buzzard wanting equipment, there's an advert on gumtree for someone folding their business and selling a lot of kit. Title is "Stihl & husqvarna chainsaw hedge cutter leaf blower strimmer NOT echo makita dewalt" It doesn't look like a pinched gear advert but then would it? Anyone interested please convince your self its genuine. Sorry to see the other post relating to burglary and stolen equipment, in two minds about posting this - if it's deemed to be inappropriate I'll delete it or mods please delete. bmp01

That'll be a new carb then. Ching-ching.....

Stick at it Owain038, you need a result, us too. Don't mind Spud, must have had a hard day at the office and in need of a Snickers bar.

Nice hot (way too hot to hold) spark plug will sometimes help if the fuel mixture is a bit off - you've just to figure out his to do it with the tools you have to hand ? Been a few of these 171 / 181 / 211 won't start issues, and quite a few market carbs after which the requests for help dry up .... Trouble is without feedback we don't know if the repair worked or the saw was binned. Where abouts are you ?

Unfortunately turning the cover fouls the bar before you can begin tightening down. Without the bar, pop the cover on by hand, just want to see if the studs catch on anything.

Seems like it. ... I don't believe the bar thickness has anything to do with it. If I take the bar off my 260 and just put the cover on the gap between clamping faces is approx 3 mm, just sliding it on. Ditto the studs, the stud collar is below the face of the bar. Turn the cover through 180 degrees and see if it goes on. If not why not?

Here's another thing to try, a bit mad but might learn something. Try putting the clutch cover on with it rotated through 180 degrees, so the STIHL badge is upside down. We're checking the cover goes all the way down without the perimeter getting in the way. If not what's stopping it ?

Only 2 things left. ... (that I can think of) 1) the mounting face on the saw has been machined back, or filed or what ever. ...to get rid of a badly worn face. (Pretty unlikely I guess). 2) the perimeter of the side cover contacts the saw early, stopping the clamping face from doing is job. (Wrong side cover, get creative with a file or an angle grinder ?)

Those are useful links. I bet what's happened is that a mish-mash of parts have been fitted, specifically the wrong adjuster widget.... Oik adjuster out. Assemble saw. See if that solves it. Then figure out what to do with adjuster.

The clutch cover might be the problem and you might have to get a known good one, one you know really belongs to a 024... But back up a bit, put the bar on the saw with out clutch cover (or chain). Can you confirm the collar on the bar stud below the surface of the bar ? If that's ok then take the chain adjuster out, it's not hard, then put the metal cover on. Can you see the thread on the bar stud continuing into the hole? (.....so the nut isn't bottoming on the stud before it clamps the clutch cover). If that's ok pop the nuts on and do them up. Still the same or fixed? bmp01

Owh hang on a minute... what's this in your picture? Is the tensioner holding the cover off ?

This is how the bar sits on the studs, note the collar is below the bar surface. Even then the clutch cover has 2 counter bores in it, so if the collar sits pround (above) of the bar surface it should still clamp.... If the above is ok then either, -the clutch cover is sitting on its outside edge, maybe it needs tightening down some more ? -the thread on the bar stud doesn't go deep enough so the nut is binding on the stud before it clamps on the cover, is the cover loose as well the bar ? HTH bmp01

Bar clamping info: Bar is 4.5 mm thick Stud collar height is 4.0 mm Tin plate is 0.5 mm thick This assembly does have a screw to hold the tin plate in place, studs screw down to saw body, so in this case the collar height is effectively reduced by 0.5 mm ----> bar 4.5 mm thick over collar height 3.5 mm.

Blimey this is getting a bit muddled. Couple of facts: 1) The location of the bar the saw case is 'roughly' located with the collar on the bar studs and the slot in the bar. This is not adequate for anything other than assembling the bar/chain and clutch cover onto the saw. 2) The side cover must clamp the bar to the saw for running purposes (and maintain chain tension etc). As mentioned hold the top of the bar up when the clutch cover is tightened down. Clearly something is not right with this saw. I've just pulled the clutch cover off my MS260, for a look see, taken some measurements and pictures.... all Stihl parts, just as it came out of the factory. First up bar stud collar and bar slot. ...

Looks like the clutch for dcs6000/6800 is obsolete but the drum is still available. .... didn't look too hard, part shop direct.co.uk Had me worried there.

That was worth a watch ? That guy should be dead by now.... staged or not.

Idles surprisingly well doesn't it.... Considering the high speed running I'm a bit surprised it doesn't just throw the towel in and give up. Probably just a fueling issue but I'd check the piston condition before running it anymore, (exhaust off, visual check through exhaust port). An outside punt, does chain run freely, chain brake is not clagged up ? Could explain why it idles ok but can't achieve a decent running speed. Edit: scratch that, looks like chain is running on at the end.