Steven P

Good evening, I recently got a 'not working so spares or repair' Stihl HS65AV hedge trimmer, because it was a good price (2 hours later and it is a working HS65AV but thats another story). I've also got a HS61 (it is newer than the JS65AV). So a couple of questions: Asuming the HS6x series are basically the same engine, what does the AV mean? (the AV has a different carb and some other small differences, but I reckon that thats because it is an older model) Second question is, is there an archive website with manuals or parts lists for these older machines? Thanks

Standards are not applied backwards, so a change in standard after 2012 won't need to be applied to the existing structue. However the part that is being upgraded will need to comply with the latest standards.

For most people there is no difference between the 2 pieces of software. If you have a 2D plan and want to plot trees, fences or whatever else you want then LT will do you fine. I haven;t used LT for a while, and am not so sure about its 3D ability - however I'll assume the architect just does 2D plans so you'll be OK with that

Only from my personal experience. For awooden block I tenf to go a bit lower than the other answers here - so that the top of the log I am spliyying is jnee height - but moslty this is because that is the size of logs with a decent diameter that I can get. Wood - at the moment I think it is willow, but again depends what I can pick up. Willow os quite good since it worn't split easily and quite light to move about Axes... the free big axe we rescued after a burglary, no idea of brand though, I didn't get on with the maul. Since it is a splitting axer and not used for felling it doesn't need to be mega sharp (you will soon find out where to hit the wood to make it split the best) Hand aze, just a cheap one from b&Q, wooden handle, again since it is for splitting it doesn't need to be fantastic. Once day I am going to upgrade them both. Saw horse.. Pallets and an old fence. Pick up pallets fom many places for free (just ask them).. Wooden pallets will just get chopped up if you go to far with a saw and it won't get blunt. You don't need much for the basic kit

Defenitly thre blades, Tae the blades off and they are stiff

I'll have a check but wouldn't that let the blades move so far pretty freely and then jam up? These are stiff to move the whole wall. I feel I am going to have another one of those conversations this week "What are you doing" "Watching the film" "No what are you doing with that saw thing in the living room" "Oh, that, I'm watching the film and checking the hedge trimmer blades"

Hi, its a HS61

Thanks so far. I need a new nut anyway now, so will replace the full set and see if this helps. Thats what I thought that they should be tightened properly. I'll try the loctite thing too. Is checking for bent blades simple a case of taking them apart and lining each part up against something straight to see if there is a bend in it? I can see how tightening nuts on bent blades could cause it to be stiff to move, makes sense now you mention it. I guess they could be carefully persuaded to be straight if they are bent a bit Oil stands to reason of course and it has had a variety of oils while I have had it but non appear to make it easier to move, similarly it was well cleaned when I put the blades back together so the surfaces should be OK to move against each other So a couple of things for me to think about so far, thanks.

Yes, they're back in

Good evening, I have a Stihl Hedge trimmer which works OK. I took its blade apart a while ago to clean and sharpen and put it back together When I tightened the nuts the blades were hard to move, so I loosened the nuts a bit which freed the blades - and so last night I lost one of the nuts, prompting this question.. The blades were stiff enough that it was an effort to slide them past each other by hand, looser nut and they were OK to move by hand (the saw sort of struggled to het them moving when tight too) My question then, how hard should it be to move hege trimmer blade? I assumed that they should be quite free Thanks

Just reading this - I like to know how things work.. I might be wrong, but is this the basics of whats going on? The throttle is linked to the air intake of the carb.. so pull the throttle, the air intake opens up more, and the air can get through quicker. This means there is less resistance for the cylinder so the cylinder can move quicker - engine goes faster. As the air moves through the carb it passes the nozzles for the fuel (the H and L) and as the air goes past it picks up fuel and draws that into the cylinder. More air moving means it has to pick fuel quicker. If the H nozzle won't dispese enogh fuel quick enough then the cylinder has too much air / not enough fuel and it will die? So (unless someone says that what I think is all wrong - which it might be), the problem is most likely to be the H side of the carb. A blocked nozzle or a screw that over time has screwed in blocking the fuel line so now not enoguh fuel can get past for full throttl. My first thought then would be to adjust the screw, open it uip a bit - there are youtube vidoes of this I am sure. If the engine is tricky to start then its the L screw to adjust. My next thought then would be if a new cab kit was fitted perhaps there was a leak in it somewhere letting air in instead of fuel?

I was just looking at the ash tree in my garden just then - ther leabes are coming out on it just now (we are 6 miles south of Glasgow), but the leaves are out everywhere else

If you suspect the land is the councils thern e-mail their land services (or whatever they call it) and simply ask them I'd defenitly go down the road of getting permission

I was about to post a similar truck picture

Perforate one end so it opens and makes a 'grab box' and that would be good (like a box of crisp pacets). Less mess and tidier looking (he says while looking at his wood stove that needs a clean, a hearth that defenitely needs a clean and the carpet in front of it all covered in splinters)

I've no real problem with this in principle - of the council guys are sitting about drinking tee waiting for a council job to do then why not contract them out and get their wages paid for a bit? So long as..... They charge the market rate for the work They get asked to quote via the usual means rather than using inside information that only the council have access too They operate at the same or better standards than their competition biut if they can compete failry and put some cash back in no problem. But I fear that the compete fairly might be a problem

problem with a cowboy, ask them to take a tree down in the back garden and thats what they will do - it might not be pretty, they might not have all the tickets and insurances, and so on, cheap job, move on... and a lot of people won't know the difference. Thats how the cowboy thrives - a loy of ignorance from the customer.

I'd also be tempted to bung a few in a pot of compost and see how they get on (thinking thst perhaps the cone has been through winter now and the seeds will be ready to grow)

Seeing the cake stands - I have made a couple of bird tables very similar to the 2 tier ones.. the birds are quite happy with them. I did a few discs for a wedding last year, 3" diameter silver birch for coasters (also did similar in other wood for the kids to throw about) - they were OK and didn't split Did a few larger 12"= 16" discs for table centres and cakes, and put teak oil onto them and they turned out OK too. Can't remember what wood they were though, just a random piece from my firewood pile. They didn't split but thats my point, 2 ways to stop wood splitting as far as I can tell - stop them building up internal tension as they dry (so perhaps take out the centers etc) or stop them drying or replace the water as they do dry - oiling them or varnishing (Oh.10W40 didn't give a good result)

I've been following this but ddin't get to post a coment yesterday - a great thread to read. So if I bought firewood and it didn't meet what I wanted I would go elsewhere the next time. I guess after 20 years you run out of elsewhere to go to locally When it comes to price and volume I compare it to a sack of coal (which is controlled by weights and measures, 50kg minimum) - will the wood give me the same or more heat as coal if I paid the same? If its better value and even if it didn't meet what I was told it would be then I would go back again. End of the day all I want to do is make my in house warm enough to sit about in my shorts in December I have had my stove for 4 years and no propblem splitting wood - but again will I want to still be doing the same in 20 years time?

Yes, its an LV cable, chances are they won't take the tree down for you since its not affecting the cable. For my own interest, how do you go for liability if your tree damages a utility - poewr or telephone cables? Do they take the hit or do they claim on the tree owner (thinking tree falling on them etc)

Couple of comments, I reckon if you thought it was an immediate danger then it is your duty to make it safe, whether this is to quickly remove dangerous parts, or to call the authorities / police / fire to do the same I guess thats your call. if someone else was removing a dangerous tree - and I guess you might want to hang around until they get there to watn others, then a quiet word should get you some fire wood. Otherwise the tree is someones but.... (thinking here if you were working site safety would require you to make anything dangerous safe if you could, just because we arn't working doesn't mean we should be any less aware of danger and making things safe) My road is quiet, few hoiuses, farm, and so on and I reckon if a tree came down on it I'd have a go at clearing it and probably use the wood but it all depe3nds on the situation

Can I admit to being a gobliin? Not that snobby, if I can split it then it can sit in the drive for a year and get burnt on the stove. No problem with willow except it never splits easy, pine is great, the axe goes through it no problem. I just have to load the fire up more often with softwood but thats no hardship, coal if we are going out for more than an hour helps too. For its worth, collecting the wood a corsa load at a time, then sweeping it out to put the boys seats back in, cutting and splitting the wood, stacking it, moving it into the garage for the winter, restacking it after the boys have climbed on it and spread it around the place, its not worth it purely from the time spent looking after it - would be cheaper to buy it ready split and dry if I charged myself for my time. I did see an ad on gumtree - a tree surgeon who will drop off a load at the end of the day for £50 which I thoguht was a decent price (drive was too full over winter to take him up on the offer yet). The wood would be as it comes of course. That could be a solution to a stockpile of slowly rotting wood, once its loaded up at the end of a job drop it off at a goblins house. Saves you handling it twice and storing it, and gets you some beer tokens. Saves their hatchbacks suspension.

if your spending some ££ how about a bit more and a solar powered fan to create airflow inside?.. its something I am considering for my logs when I get the spare cash for another toy. It should blow air through the logs most days

Going back a couple of days - fully agree with modern mass market designs, I think they are designed by tick box. en-suite master bathroom, tick, detached tick (even if you can touch the next door house from your own), no storage space tick, panted magnolia, tick.. yup inspirtational places to live. All you need is a rep mobile car and you would be shopping for a rope pretty quick. The norwegian wooden clad houses work - I've had few weekends in the Norwegian Artic, all wood clad houses, all have a decent wood supply, and the wood is all aged (ie you can see it hasn't been replaced for a few years) - and their climate has more extreme trmperatures than ours but I guess not as damp as Edinburgh - or Glasgow for me