Rough Hewn
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Everything posted by Rough Hewn
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This is an exceptional tree. Sadly it had died of age and infection. The base is 8’ x 42”+ The top is over 48” wide. That’s a 461 with 25” bar for size comparison. (Had to trim a few inches of flare at both ends).
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Great setup mate [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
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Dwarf root stock orchard. [emoji106]
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Ahem yes, bring a saw ?[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
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I’m back down in a week or two. [emoji106]
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A very very long day. Big thanks to @Al Cormack and@wonky for all their help today. I’ll get some wood porn up shortly. [emoji6][emoji106]
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Yes I can [emoji106]
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Yes you’re right. But there are exceptions... [emoji106]
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Largest Diameter Tree Felled with Small Chainsaw?
Rough Hewn replied to Billhook's topic in General chat
It’s a bit confusing, -
Yiu can get a 7.5 ton transit tipper. 10990kg mam. [emoji106]
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Tung bean oil [emoji106]
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Well saved bud[emoji106] Nice boards. That log arch coming in handy already I see. [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
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I think he’s bought a mill, not the book. I hope. [emoji106]
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That is correct. My advice is only a vague guideline (literally). [emoji106]
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I’ve not tried the intersect, but the panther mills are superb bits kit and really do the job well. But all specialist machines are just that, specialist. Each mill has pros and cons. Panther mills cut wide slabs but are much slower to cut square edged. Logosol’s F2+ cuts dimensional timber but struggles with wider slabs. Yes I would strongly recommend both?[emoji106] I have 2 panthers 60” and 80” as well as a 36” chilaskan and the Logosol F2+. They all get used regularly. [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
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Look at the 36” eco-mill from Chainsawbars.co.uk They are really cheap and very accurate. I’ve used these for years, still got a couple I use occasionally. (before upgrading to panther mills). You’ll need a 36” bar and several ripping chains, also get yourself a new sprocket and only use it with the ripping chains. Or if you’ve got the budget get a Logosol chainsaw mill. It can slab, and it’s much easier and quicker to make square edged timber. Ive found much more experienced and knowledgeable saw millers on arbtalk than on YouTube. Seen too many videos which start with... “Here’s my new mill I’m unboxing! I’ve not used one before... I’m wearing jeans,sunglasses and a baseball cap, This is how it’s done everybody”........... A book I recommend to all chainsaw millers is: Will Malloff’s chainsaw lumber making. It can be found on tinterweb. [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
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Fill your van with chip. Drive to a weighbridge. Empty out back until legal. Spray can a line along the top of the chip. That’s your chip line. Do the same with green logs to get your log line. Bit rudimentary but it works [emoji106]
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What size logs do you intend to mill? Do you want to cut live edge slabs or planks and beams? [emoji106]
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Both. I hand file when I’m out, then use the bench grinder to re set all the teeth and depth gauges. [emoji106]
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My dream 4x4 with trailers....
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Mill some cheap stuff first til you get the hang of it. Also aligning and calibrating might take a while. [emoji106]
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If you don’t try it you won’t know. A lot is personal preference. I know an old boy who mills holding the front of the mill and walks backwards down the side of log. It works, he’s happy. [emoji106]
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Depends what you want to do. I personally don’t like winches on Alaskan type mills, much prefer actual feedback and hands on control. However on a logosol sawmill I think they are genius. There are more than one way of setting a winch for milling, see will malloff’s book for examples. I think it’s still early days in mill design, and winches could be used in better ways. [emoji106]
