Johnsond

Hi Just came across that online and was wondering if anyone had any info on them ?? Cheers

Hi Worked with a German UXO disposal guy a while back whom would not entertain smart phones, face book, twitter etc etc he was adamant about it. After a bit of banter and mickey taking his reason given was after growing up in the former East Germany and being subject to the scrutiny and eavesdropping on everyday citizens by the Stasi he would never again utilise any device or bit of kit that enabled people to keep tracks on him. He was a switched on very clever guy and no conspiracy theory type but he believed whole heartedly based upon his past experiences that the state and the likes of google Facebook etc etc were not to be trusted.

Only thing I'm tuned into right now is how much aches and pains I've got after humping them slabs about lol

Hi Yeah pump was screwed right up the correct way. Saw was bench tested with bar in and no chain. I guess yes started with brake on as per norm, and brake off and revved to check flow. In an earlier post you mentioned the case valve I checked and cleaned that and slightly altered the profile of the oil holes on the bar to mimic the profile and feed angle of the stihl bar, I'm not sure whichever or whatever was the issue but I've been out today and milled for 3-4 hrs and there was no sign of any heat on bar, saw felt much better when cutting so hopefully whatever it was is sorted. As for oil consumption I tend to top off as I fuel but will probs go the other way and try to keep an eye on it in case flow drops off again. Thanks for the input

Maybe so but we are talking say 2mm on stihl and 3mm approx so not major Just thought I'd mention it. Oil flow from powerhead was good and as the pump has a given delivery volume/capacity/pressure capability (as I understand it) the difference in size unless huge will have little affect. End of day all it has to do is get it into groove and chain will carry it on its way. If the stihl rolomatic oils diffently/ better then ill know the current combo is not working well together mind you that is only a 36 inch bar and current one is 42 which should make very little difference id have thought. Aux oiler I think for milling will be route to go.

If it's only had a few hours use, then may I inquire as to whether you that oiled the new chain before putting it on the new bar? If not, then it could be that the dry chain rubbing in the bar when first used without being properly oiled has caused heat damage somewhere causing the bar and chain to oil badly. Hi yeah top groove was well oiled and chain then run by hand to set tension. I was at strathbogie saws today and have picked up a stihl 36 inch rolomatic bar and crosscut chain to try and see if oiling is any better. Spoke to Pete up there and he was very helpful and offered to lend me a stihl bar for free rather than buy to try if I needed. I measured and compared all the oil ways to the stihl bar and if anything the Sugihara has bigger oilways. Regardless of this I reassembled the whole set up and ran the saw with bar end near a sheet of A4 oiling was poor compared to my 661 on a 36 inch bar which was leaving definitive lines of oil on the paper instantly when revved. I ran the 880 with brake on and on tickover on the bench the oil is pushing out fine from the oilway. Im just gonna stick an auxiliary oiler on for milling but It will be interesting to see how it oils with a stihl bar when the time comes.

Hi First thing I did was strip and. Clean saw and bar etc, all oilways were clear, I ran powerhead only and got good flow from the outlet, another post mentions the possibility of a valve/vacuum issue so maybe that's something to look at. Mind you as I've said saw is only a few hrs of use old. I'll get back to it tomorrow and see how it goes.

Hi Squaredy Thanks for the input. That's kind of what I was hoping to hear. A few cracks etc I'm totally fine with The timber itself is a load of oversize stuff cut at 4.8m. There should be no problem getting at least a couple each of the 6x6 and 8x8 beams from some of the larger pieces,Plus I should have the advantage of having spare beams to choose from if some move to much. Max beam length i need is 4.2m. I've attached a couple of images of something along the lines of what hopefully we will end up with and of the logs themselves.

Hi all Looking for some opinions on the merits/cons when cutting Douglas fir beams for a timber frame ie free of heart or heart centred, I've been reading up as much as I can as I intend to cut the beams myself. Trees have been down for over a year. just throwing this out there for any advice/knowledge that's about. Cheers

Cheers for the replys guys. I think I'll give the aux oiler a go to tell truth. Regarding the running in the 661 has only ever milled and has done hundreds of hours with no probs but I tend to back off and not run it flat out. 880 was bought to do the same and has not been maxed out whilst working. Myself and the kids have spent a lot of yrs racing/rebuilding 2 and 4 stroke mx bikes/ quads so I'd say I have a fair degree of mechanical sympathy. But I'll take that on board ref the 880 and let it burn through a few tanks before using it again. There was no bark or dirt on the log. Sparks and noise was I'd say from a dry bar and chain. Clamps holding the bar are well away from groove and there was no deformity on bar when it was off saw. Oregon chain oil is what I'm using and have for years with no problems.

Hi Cheers for the reply chain tension was spot on and this occurred within approx 20 inches of first cut commencing. I mentioned the steps I took in initial post ie cleaned oil holes and bar groove ran powerhead on its own to check oiler etc . Saw has literally done 2 hrs from new same with bar and chain was brand new out of box but I'll check that today. Regarding the wood being milled, it was a piece of dead elm not super hard. The comparison I'm making is with the 661 and a 36 inch stihl bar I know how much oil I get off that and how it feels even when being pushed hard. I'll take a look at it again today and see how it goes.

Hi Guys First off merry Xmas to all etc etc Doing some milling today just to get out of the house for a couple of hours, virtually new 880 and 42 inch Sugihara bar with Oregon milling chain, timber to be milled was a piece of elm approx 32-34 inch diameter. Set up and initial milling went ok but pretty soon into the cut I noticed a couple of tiny sparks from chain and tone changed. Stopped milling and checked the the chain/bar noticed evidence of heat with bluing on leading edge of bar. I did a vertical cut at end of milling cut to remove the piece and check for steel etc but found nothing. Proceeded to strip and clean saw and bar, groove and oil ways were ok I ran the saw powerhead only and the oil flow was good ( Set at max) whilst I had bar off I used a burr grinder to slightly radius the face that goes onto the oil feed on the saw just as a precaution and to allow better oil flow. Everything was reassembled and ran up. I offered bar end up to some new 4x2 to check for oil off bar end and found virtually zero oil spray. I've done plenty with a 661 with up to a 36 inch bar and never had an issue, just curious if from others experience is the 880 oiler ok for longer bars etc. I'll check tomorrow with vernier to make sure holes line up spot on for bar and powerhead oil ways. Bar and chain came from rob on this site. Cheers

Hi Yeah it is something I've considered but I think for now the convenience of having the petrol motor and the amount of use planned would outweigh any advantages of running 3 phase etc. There are some good mills out in Poland at reasonable prices, couple of engineers on boat I work on are polish and they were helping me out when seeing what was out there. There was what seemed a copy of a woodmizer with hydraulics etc 3 phase at very decent money ??.

Cheers for all the advice guys, sometimes you just need a shove in the right direction. I was as I've said dreading doing it with an Alaskan. Anyway spoke to Chris today at woodlands UK and pretty much made my mind up on what direction to go, only question left is 130 or 126 with the 14hp option. Chances are the 126 would do all I ever need. He mentioned the 130 is being slightly heavier/tougher built ??? Anyone here had hands on with both and willing to offer any input ? I was also wondering if there are any members on here around the Aberdeenshire area with either the 125/130 set up, be handy to see one up and running with some hrs on it etc

FAC covers rifles, multi shot shotguns and over 12ftlb air rifles or air weapons as they like to call them up here. I have an FAC and a shotgun licence and last year I had to add the air rifle licence to run with them. Firearms licensing officer whom visited to check security for my 5th renewal was of the opinion it was a complete waste of time as is always the case it would only be the law abiding that would adhere to the legislation. As for SNP they are indeed in the business of controlling and interfering as the crazy scheme for having our kids a nominated by the state guardian showed.

Valid points in particular the cost of used and the resale value. when I'm earning that means I'm away normally either offshore or overseas so whilst time to complete the jobs I have lined up is not pressing the actual time I have at home is something else. The 500 loss is easy to stomach I guess when a days hire for a woodmizer with operator is 400-450.

Hi disregard that request for the number etc, just had a quick look online and got his contact details thanks

Cheers for that 122 probs would be on the small side and whilst the budget is always relevant the right choice is giving me more of a headache. I've got a couple of Alaskans and a 661/880 to run them hence being drawn to the M8. Mill would only be for me and family initially, first job is approx 25 ton of Douglas fir to be cut for a traditional timber frame extension. Mind you I guess the Alaskans could do it as time is not an issue but the thought of that much chainsaw mill action fills me with dread. Do you have a contact e mail or number for the guy you mention "chris "

Hi Any plans for the 130 if you do go for the Logosol ??. I'm in a similar situation to what Trigger Andy was in ie wondering what direction to go in. Part of me thinks M8 then next day it's small band saw etc etc,tbh I'm tired of trying to work out what's the best option

Hi Graham Take it your happy with the purchase then lol.

That's a couple of pics he sent not the best but it gives you some idea J. Patrol was prepped up for and completed the London to cape town rally hence the cage etc

Hi J Got a pal in Inverness with both a land cruiser 4.2td and a patrol 4.2, pretty sure he’s looking to thin out a couple as he’s also running another land cruiser, I’ll get details and pics if they are of any interest. Regards Dave

Some of it is fair enough ie companies not paying or sub standard work but a lot of its a sign of the times we live in. Companies throwing loans and cash at you at crazy near criminal interest rates. The throwaway consumer society we live in where we are encouraged to have the next best new thing, Private sector rentals etc etc. Saw one recently where a whole family was put out before Xmas by a private landlord, watching that just brought home how easy it is to end up in that situation ie self employed and a bad injury or whatever and it doesn't take much before your backs to the wall. Few years back whilst looking for a house I went to see a house that turned out to be a Bank repossession, kids bedrooms still had toys and pics etc on walls seeing that was enough for me I walked out then and there as I knew that's all id ever associate the place with.

Hi Mitchel Got a mate who is looking to shift a HIAB017 complete with legs and a brand new Honda power pack to go with it. Couple of pics included not the best but you get an idea. Cheers

Hi Yeah it may not be but the symptom's you both describe and the lights coming up sound very much like one of the speed sensors that are on each wheel failing and sending a dodgy signal back in to the system, one of other signs will be the hill start assist not working, The first time it did it with me was with a fully loaded tri axle ifor coming up to a junction and the ABS kicked in on a dry road needless to say the braking performance was not great and I resorted to the handbrake to help matters. Mine is a 65 plate 3.2 and its had 3 all done under warranty on the last visit I asked unsuccessfully for the 4th and last original one to be done rather than waiting for it to fail. Fitter at the main dealer told me its a known common fault and the replacements are an upgraded item. Craig your warning lights may not be on now but my experience would say it will happen again and may go on and off a few times but will end up staying on. To be honest because of what the affect it has on the braking system it should in my view be a recall item or at least offer to change them at service intervals as like I say they are well aware of the issue.