neiln

Got any 038/380 spares? I'd be particularly keen on a magnum p + c oh and a stihl 20" x0.063" bar? also, a husky/oregon 24 or 28" bar and chain?

the mortar pick/mini mattock? its a standard tomahawk fitting, that handle i linked should fit perfectly. I'll get one soon no doubt.

did they have a hard wood log business by chance

Like you I use one of those little 15" mattocks...although mine is a mini pick axe, a mortar pick. works well for picking up splits from the floor and reduces the bending. thinking of getting a longer handle for it https://www.knivesandtools.co.uk/en/pt/-cold-steel-handle-for-frontiers-and-trail-hawk-h90at.htm?utm_source=criteo&utm_medium=display&utm_campaign=OTHEROUTDOOR-brand-coldsteel i use a bison pickaroon for larger stuff, fantastic.

i agree

more softwood for me to scrounge, carrry on spouting bollcks please jotul.

stove fan on each stove. a cheapo valiant rip off, and an actual valiant. the ripoff seems marginally better. both throw a decent draught and i think help to warm the room more quickly. Flue thermometer on each stove, cheapo ones, they are a guide...and occasionally useful although mostly you can tell from looking..mostly but not quite always. companion set and log store (see my photo in the stove photo thread...it is both) that wasn't cheap! welding gauntlets/gloves to load the stove Kneeling pads....I have hard floors, so need those!

Stovax Stockton 5.

Sw14 is a bit too far for me to collect, even for false acacia. But if you don't get other takers, and if you are coming back home past SE19 (upper Norwood) I'd take some. Hell, for false acacia I'll take the euc too. I'm sure you'll find a local taker though.

having had subsidence caused by oaks, I asked about heave risk when the engineer decided on removal in one go (several mature oaks, about 18m tall). Apparently they now believe isn't an issue if it wasn't before. ie, if heave is a problem, tree removal will likely aggravate, if heve not an issue, tree removal won't cause it.

Co, not co2

1. Was it first light this year? couldn't just be the smell of dust burning off the stove? 2. install sounds ok to me but do a draw smoke to test draw and to test seals. a. seal test, smoke pellet in the stove, all vents shut, check for leaks. b. check draw, warm flue with blow lamp inside stove for a couple of minutes, smoke pellet in vents shut, open vents when stove full of smoke, smoke should clear quickly. then open a window in the same room, watch to see smoke continues to go up flue but no faster - if it does go faster it indicates the air intake isn't sufficient - check its not blocked. not sure but your room sealing kit probably means this test is pointless/needs doing differently. 3. do smoke test to check flue integrity. this requires going on the roof, covering the chimney cap so you can fill the flue with smoke. it will then try and find other routes out and you may find wisps emerging through cracks/faults. after that, get a good sweep into use their experience and find the problem.

How long is the flue, where is the stove in the house and where was the window opened? Stack affect can give back draft, it's when the house is taller and a better flue than the flue itself. Or could be weather/wind direction causing it but if you've not had this in 2 years until now.... Has something changed? A new door in the house, a piece of furniture blocking am air brick? Has the flue been swept recently? It may need it. Or could it have been smoke from a neighbour coming in your window? I'd get your flue swept and get the draw checked with smoke pellets. Also CHECK THE BATTERY IN YOUR CO ALARM AND SMOKE ALARM.

Whether he agrees or not it will go higher. I looked it up a year or so ago, with a short search I found a table from either UK or us forestry giving equilibrium MC for top covered wood, by ambient temp and humidity. Looking up UK average conditions I found in the South East (likely the warmest and driest in the UK but I didn't check that) wood would reach 18-19%mc in January February time. To stay at 16, which may well be achievable for air dried by September time, would require heated or dehumidified storage, not just covered.

use premium pump fuel, its not guaranteed ethanol free (although last I heard BP did guarantee it) but it is either free of ethanol or lower ethanol. I add Startron stabiliser to combat any ethanol which is trying to absorb water and separate, and is combatting the oxidising aromatics that cause gums and varnishes. Startron is very very good. I mix smallish quantities of fuel and use it reasonably quickly, although still have fuel around for 3-4 months occasionally. I always run the saw dry, every time, that's probably the most important.

So your neighbours don't like your wood burning. Invite them round for a brew and a hobnob, or a choccie digestive if they prefer, sit them in front of your warm and beautifully flickering stove. If that doesn't start to warm them and get them asking about 'How much are they?' 'are they easy to fit?' 'where do you get the wood? then...... Stick to the laws, burn clean as you can, and when they complain about your noisy and stinky chainsaw point out that cutting and splitting your own wood is by far the best way to ensure the wood you burn is dry. If they still wrinkly their nose tell them to do one.

Standard answer here is the burley holleywell, but you have lots and lots to choose at that size I think.

Good effort dddan, I did similar a couple of years ago. Got a very very tired Franco belge Belfort on eBay for under £75. Bought new baffle, made a new stainless steel heat shield (sits inside the immediately under the top plate), bought new grate, replaced door rope, resealed top plate to body, made new door catch pin to replace worn one, made ash plan handle to replace missing one, wire brushed then cleaned with cellulosethinner the whole thing before spraying with stove bright paint, and made new vermiculite bricks to replace the knackered refectory bricks. With petrol to collect it I spent under £200 and it's good as new, lovely little stove and a satisfying project.

Oh yes I know they are large. Simply fitting them in a typical UK house would be awkward with many. The Catalytic stoves can be big but run low though.... Huge firebox just smoldering and the cat burning the smoke, all vents controlled by the t-stat. Stoves like this are designed for efficient, low faff, background wood heat. Light the stove once a year and burn for 6-7 months, loading once each day. I'm not surprised big stoves like that aren't common here but I am surprised that there aren't a few. I guess certification costs may make the market unviable but I thought (could be wrong but) our EU regs followed the EPA rules, I bet the tests would need repeating though. I'd struggle to get a sofa in my lounge if I installed a blaze king king, but do like the idea of 48 hour burns between reloads!

Possibly but I think the US market is quite different. They have considerable rural population who rely on wood heat (or spend fortunes on propane, oil or electricity). The stove market is quite different as a result. I think they have some great stoves....I love the idea of filling a massive firebox in something like a blaze king Princess, then dialing in a temp and letting it use it's thermostat and catalyst to control the burn, clean burn and burn for 24-48 hours! If you stocked blaze king, or some of the other us brands, I think you'd be the first in the UK..... Worth considering

I've never known bricks to be stuck/cemented in, neither of the stove I have so more than place the bricks (and then the baffle holds them in place).

Vermiculite board is cheap on eBay, cuts readily with a hand saw, is light and from what I read it's considerably more insulating than refractory brick. When I refurbished an old stove with badly damaged bricks I made replacements with vermiculite board and they seem to work very very well. My newer stove uses vermiculite as standard

How £390+ vat is only £140 more t then the Amazon price I'm not sure! The f rJones price is good, but I'm guessing it's power head only. Think I looked and they wanted £550 with 15" b+c and vat. I make that £300 more. Still there is no saving worth a fake or stolen saw, which is why (had a received a saw, by some miracle) I'd have checked thoroughly with husqvarna that it was legitimate.

Ok, so is there a layman's way of identifying that? I knew it wasn't quite as simple as deciduous Vs evergreen but knew no more than that. A more accurate layman's guide/rule would be lovely.

I stand corrected wrt Holly.