neiln

I think that price is head only, so add a bit more for bar and chain. however I agree the 365 is a great saw, and I agree f r jones are good dealers. Oh and while the makita saws are very good, there aren't so many dealers to help fix problems. Its always worth considering who our local dealer is and what they stock.

I've been running one stove most evenings now for a couple of weeks.

I couldn't agree more! (With the description of UK Eucalyptus. I've yet to be able to travel to see them in Aus)

Yes the Americans rave about locust/false acacia. I've had it and it's easy to split and pretty dense but I didn't notice anything special. I'd put it a little below oak. Holly is worth a mention I think, so long as someone else has dealt with the prickles

I must have had some different Eucalyptus to you then. It's not uncommon to find it as a tree in South London gardens so I pick it up from time to time, but it's not particularly dense even when wet and is much lighter than oak once seasoned..

Its is the queens as i understand, and the ones I get have wings and are HUUUUGGEEE! they are sleepy but the warmth of the house brings them, just, from their slumber where upon they fly dozily, like an insectile chinook helicopter, around the house. annoying.

E.gunni grows like a weed! I must admit it smells great when cutting and splitting and it splits easily but with growth rings half inch apart it's not very dense. I'll take it occasionally, but for a fast burning soft wood to get the stove going I prefer Leyland cypress. It may be slightly harder to split with its knots but it's a decent density. It's weird, euc in native aus is dense, some of the gums sink in water!

Eucalyptus? Native? And you like it? I'm confused.

wasps, a lot of wasps. I average 3 per m3. I've seen ne of my local wood peckers in my shed...he is either useless, or fat...i think its the former. Also one mose nest.

Yes I've a magnetic flue thermometer. Ok you soon learn to just put a couple of logs on and to shut the air down, you also learn the woods that burn hotter and those that are not so hot, but you still get freak days when something about the weather makes the stove draw like a train or something else you don't understand makes the stove insane. A thermometer for under a fiver let's me know.

Yew, burns like depleted uranium hot! Apple, burns hot and a long long time.... The little I had was right an old gnarly tree and tough to split though.

Who said they aren't getting a problem?

Oh and insurers paid for the lining of the clay drains to rule out any possibility of them worsening the problem by any slight leak attracting tree roots. Part of the problem with root barrier is, I've structure at my boundary (house wall, conservatory wall, garage wall), so costs obtained by insurers were to demolish part of this, trench something like 5m deep iirc, copper mesh beside it as it's filled with concrete, and rebuild. Not cheap. I'm not sure it would be 100% effective either as the house is a semi, my neighbours appear to be dropping and pulling me over, and currently they aren't doing anything to prevent this. Which is probably why the insurers come back to ' if the neighbours won't take the trees down there's little we can do'. So, is there any reasonable chance of compelling the neighbours to remove the trees? And if so, what route should I follow?

Ah root barrier, yes been pushing insurers to do that for several years. Insurers claiming limit of liability. Neighbours have been on notice of future damage for 3+ years.

drains were cctv'ed. minor misalignments of clay pipe not thought to be a problem but sleeved anyway...damage continues years on. ITS THE F*****G TREES GUYS, really, it is!

Yes soil was tested by insurers, yes it's shrinkable. Yes the roots found were tested and id'd as the same species as the suspect trees, no there are no other of that species. I'm not going to discuss what I think of the reason for lack of action by the insurer. Monitoring, yes, lots, years and years. We know the cause, we really do. What do you mean by self help in this case?

Done, test pits, bore holes, shown decicated soil, tree roots found, evidence presented to neighbours who have still refused to cooperate. Insurance now sat on there hands for 3+ years. I've got another complaint in which will go to financial ombudsman shortly. I need to work out what the compensation I said seek is, and I know I need to speak to a solicitor but was asking here if anyone could advise what the questions he should consider are.

Done all that. Injunction and compelling evidence, that's where we are.

They aren't sorting it. Over a decade in and they are sitting in there hands with neighbours not cooperating and my house surveying further damage. That's why I'm seeking some advice. Just realised I probably posted this in the wrong sub forum though. The advice I need is about legal avenues and likely success or not, for forcing the trees to be removed.

I'd have thought that will be dry. split wood always dries faster, but that small diameter will dry okish with most woods. woods like birch, prunus, things with shiny bark, the bark is waterproof and the rot instead pf drying, but ash will be ok. not sure on aspen. aspen is poor firewood anyway, it will be light if its dry.

I unfortunately have an ongoing issue with subsidence caused by shrinkage of desiccated clay soil as a result of mature Oak trees in 2 neighbouring properties. My house insurance is being of limited value and I'm seeking some advice on the legal position and possible ways to resolve this. I'd prefer not to put details on the forum though, if anyone would be willing to offer some advice by private messaging that would be a great help. Thank you

The idea with modern stoves is run it hard and clean, let it go out when house is warm, relight when needed. It's more efficient and cleaner.

I do the same, collect splitting splinters and the bigger bit of garden bush prunings but I need a lot more. 2 x 5kw stoves getting lit daily once cold enough, plus I supply mum for her stove lit most evenings. I don't detest the job as much as i used to...a nice 2 foot high birch stump as a block so not much bending down, except for picking up the bits, and a nicr hatchet. A guy in canada (another forum friend) sent me an unmarked but likely scandinavian head at about 750g which was totally out of the blue and awesome i hung it on a 19" smedberg handle. its heavier than the little roughneck i used before and longer handled both make it easier. plus it's history makes me smile. stove lit for the first time tonight....i'm sweating bullets - 23C. Wife is smiling and says its toastie. I tried the blowtorch to light it, it worked but needed about a 2min blast. I put 2 bits of kindling in, 3 medium splits across the top of those and blasted the gs torch under the splits. A bit of a faff tbh. a stack of kindling and newspaper seems easier. Still, I'll use the old canisters up and save a little kindling

While I like my ms180 for these reasons I also came to hate it for dealing with large hardwood as it slow, and noodling any unsplittable bits is too painful. So I bought a second hand 365 from Bill on here. I'd hate to only have the 365, but I'd hate to only have the 180 too....more. I only do firewood for personal use but I do more than many I guess....I feed 2 5kw stoves to heat my house and keep the CH off all winter, plus I provide all wood (and kindling) for my mum. Last year we burnt 10.5 to 11m3 and I've been buring for 3 years and processing more than i burn in order to get 2+ years ahead and allow the wood 2 summers to dry, so I've been processing 13-15m3. The ms180 probably does 2/3rds of the cutting.

yeah the plastics not so good http://www.wecf.eu/cms/download/2004-2005/homeburning_plastics.pdf