neiln

Can you make some more holes? A large opening in that far end wall would be a good start

I've had a reply from BP Thank you for your email concerning the fuel sold by BP. Bioethanol is present in nearly all regular unleaded petrol being sold by fuel suppliers in the UK today. Bioethanol is also becoming increasingly present in the UK’s super-unleaded (premium/higher octane) petrol too; this is because, in compliance with the UK government’s Renewable Transport Fuel Obligation, fuel suppliers have been required to increase the quantity of bio fuels in their transport fuels since 2008. As a consequence, the inclusion of bioethanol in our BP Ultimate Unleaded supply chain is an evolving situation and we are therefore unable to give you categorical assurances as to its absence or presence. However we can assure you that – as required by the The Motor Fuel (Composition and Content) (Amendment) Regulations 2013 – the content of bioethanol in our BP Ultimate Unleaded petrol may contain up to 5% ethanol and diesel fuels up to 7% biodiesel. Currently there are no plans to increase the ethanol content.

I've always found Holly fine to split too, and or burns very very well. Sounds like yours had dried, a lot of wood gets her to split then. Sycamore it seems is universally simple to split!

None at all as it is polluting. Any sustainably grown wood is nearing carbon neutral, type doesn't matter. What matters is how is grown and processed. Locally produced and air dried will be by far the best (lowest carbon), and properly dry to minimise smoke.

So how much are they paying for that?! It's neat.. I type the name normally and it's appeared as a hyperlink! I'll just say I've never tried the stuff, I've read good things about it though.

Because ethanol free pump gas was easier to get than motomix or aspen and a quarter the price. This thread is about how they has changed.

Weighing only really helps if I finally dry the log in the oven and get a dry weight. I will rummage my drawer and find my cheapo moisture meter and use that. I've just got some oak, a cube or so, felled last week from my neighbours garden. I bucked it and piled it ready to split so I can measure and mark up a few splits as I work through splitting them. Being the last to go in there is little air movement in the shed now, the stacked splits block both windows and the remaining space is the last bit in the middle and then right at the doorway. It's prefer to have filled out before now, or to be finishing with soft wood, but I have Oak. Since that's the hardest to dry it may be touch and go but I'm splitting for 3 small 5kw stoves... Smaller splits dry fast. I'll try and leave a few larger ones and measure those too so I can see how it goes. Depending upon whether mum manages to sell her house and move next summer I may be moving 2-3 cube to her. If I start on that early enough I'll move this lot first to get into her airy log store and the bottom of it. In which case I'll be checking moisture content next summer time.

How big is the opening and where is it? The more air flow the quicker the wood will season, so if you could add openings in the ends and along its length they would help. I dry a lot of wood in an old 6'6" X 8'6" garden shed. It was a typical potting shed, window in one end and the front, door beside front window. I removed the door and windows and will completely fill the shed and wood seasons well, mixed hard and soft that is. I'll be burning it next winter, starting into it about December/January after I finish another stack, and I'd normally have had it filled before now but I still need a couple of cube. As long as I get that done in the next month or so I expect it will be dry even though the last stuff in will be first out. So you don't always need super airy spots and single rows, but more air means faster drying generally.

Steve is pretty good in his tips I think. He tips the fuel out, starts it and runs it dry, chokes it and keeps starting it to run the last few drops out, then puts it away on the shelf.

I thought I'd ask about E5 on another forum which i use, that seems to have a wide range of people and you'd be amazed at the stuff that hive mind 'knows' Sure enough...as well as lots of bikers and microlighters and owners of classic cars with ethanol trouble tales...there's a member who works in the business of fuels somewhere. testing I think. Anyway he knew this inside out...well..pretty darn well at least. His advice - Shell V-power is the best pump fuel. He seemed fairly confident that all the esso and BP claims of e free are out of date, reckons they will all have 5% now, but shell start off with a higher RON base petrol (about 97) before adding the ethanol to boost it to 99 RON. the ron is not that important for a 'saw, but where he voted for the shell is the additives. Has anyone tried getting AVGAS? that will be e-free and AVGAS 100 LL is, 100 ron, and low ead...think its about 25% the lead of old 4 star. It looks like its about £1.90/litre so a noticeable chunk more than pump, but way way less that aspen. I understand saws will run fine on it. No idea how easy it is to get though, if you aren't in a plane.

My pleasure. You could work on your style though ?

Leave the kid alone, he's just trying to make the site a resource and let's face it this place is dead! Outside of about a dozen people no one uses the site, or posts at least. I find that strange given the growth in popularity of stoves there should be lots of people seeking advice before selecting, fitting, using, getting wood, maintaining, sorting little issues, seeking ideas on how to make things better and so on and so on. Where are they? Bowlie is just trying to get some activity, and if he learns a few tips to help his customers get better advice that's good.

That seems pretty good. Only things that jumps to mind as a useful addition you could make are: 1. how long the coals burn before the next reload is needed 2. an indication of heat output, maybe see stove temp? 3.Any difference in the ash quantity that remains.

best of luck. I'm many years into a subsidence claim and the insurers are not being at all proactive...or active. you have my sympathy

Into my 4th winter with my stovax. 3rd with a rebuilt Franco belge which I suspect could be quite old. Mum had the same Franco belge which is.err..err. About 25 years old I think. Still good as new, original baffle, bricks, glass and door rope. Although it's probably only burnt 50m3 in they time, where my stovax has burnt maybe 16-18 already

revving from cold, that's risking cold seize. Get the piston out and check it for scoring

i find prunus can be difficult to dry, i think the bark is very waterproof. the little apple i've had burnt well, its very very dense. was a bit tough to split though.

Yes you won't get more power. Shave the keyway and advance the timing to make use of the knock resistance

Yes I saw that a few weeks ago too, I wonder if the law has changed and it now applies to super? I'm struggling to find much on the web that is recent, the Esso stuff I found might be out of date.

Its good to empty the saw as ethanol tends to swell fuel lines and carb gaskets, and because of a non-ethanol problem, the oxidizing aromatics forming gums and varnishes that block the carb jets.

2 of the 4 clips to hold the glass were screwed in absurdly tight. Oddly the stove ran fine for a season, then it developed 2 cracks in the glass the following season. screws were so tight i had to drill the things out!

but we know better. buy 97-100 octane, mix small amounts and use it while fresh, add startron*, AND DON'T LEAVE FUEL IN YOUR SAW! *other stabilisers are available

Whether you trust them or not is a difficult point, only you can decide. The water strips the ethanol and also strips the Octane rating, as ethanol raises Octane. the fuel above the water/ethanol gel is very poor.

Ahh an bot of success! Esso say - Fuels Frequently Asked Questions | Esso WWW.ESSO.CO.UK Get your questions answered. Visit our FAQ page to learn more about Esso products in the United Kingdom. What is the ethanol content of your fuels? The majority of unleaded 95 Octane petrol sold in the UK contains up to 5% ethanol as required under the Government’s Renewable Transport Fuels Obligation (RTFO). There is currently no requirement for renewable fuel (such as ethanol) to be present in super unleaded (97 grade petrol). Esso super unleaded petrol (Synergy Supreme+ Unleaded 97) is ethanol free (except in Devon, Cornwall, the Teesside area and Scotland). We would therefore advise anyone who has concerns about the presence of ethanol in petrol to use Synergy Supreme+ – providing they do not fill up in Devon or Cornwall, the Teesside area or Scotland.

Likewise I thought we used to have pumps labelled as E10. I think the law was something like the E10 labelled stuff could have up to 10% ethanol but might be less, and in addition the suppliers had a % target to meet (maybe that was 5%, I'm not sure). it used to be that the higher octane stuff was usually E free but its hard to find anything from the manufacturers. IIRC only BP (with Ultimate) actually stated it was E free. Having a quick google I can't find anything useful that is up to date