Aunt Maud
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Everything posted by Aunt Maud
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I used to live just down the road from you on the other side of Shepton, on the road to Wells. Not far from that brick drying shed with all the holes in it. I used to go and have a chat to Mr Day who make the thatching spars at Nunney Catch quite a lot, you may know him, lovely man and good fun, with a sharp whit.
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Getting colder and a hefty wind from the East.....mercury on its way down and the wife is wearing socks in bed. Happy new year to you Jon. Say hello to Somerset, I miss living there.
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Timber contains two types of water called Free Water and Bound Water. Free water is in the cell cavities and is the first that is removed during the drying process and the timber is said to be at Fibre Saturation Point when its removed, which is just above air dry . Bound water is chemically bonded within the cell structure and this is removed generally with heat, either within a kiln or heated house, and it's at this point below FSP where timber does its shrinking. Although prolonged air drying in good conditions will remove some of the Bound Water.
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That's right. It's a result of microfibrillar structure becoming more compact when the moisture bound within the cells dries out. Timber contains two types of water Free Water and Bound Water. Free water is in the cell cavities and is the first that is removed during the drying process and the timber is said to be at Fibre Saturation Point, which is just above air dry . Bound water is chemically bonded within the cell structure and this is removed generally with heat, either within a kiln or heated house, and it's at this point below FSP where timber does its shrinking.
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For eye to eye strops, a parallel basket is stronger than a 45º basket which gives 2800kg WLL How far are you intending to pull the thing ?
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The "Your" bit isn't referring to you though Mull, but a user in general. So apologies if I've offended, it wasn't my intention.
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I'm repairing my house with the stuff I've milled. You could always try to sell it by the board on fleabay....collect only, of course.
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High pressure now forming over the Baltic and wind turning to the East. It's going to cool down and dry off for us. It'll hopefully get rid of the mould thats grown my newly stacked firewood. Bring on the frost
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It depends on your technique, sharpness is something peoples views vary wildly on. If you tend to bury it in the ground or your leg, then its best not to bother having it too sharp. The angle of the last half inch, where the blade is is crucial, as you don't want to bury it in the wood every time you hit it and you don't want it bouncing off either.
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Don't use Yew then.
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2016 New Years Resolutions!... lets hear 'em......
Aunt Maud replied to SteveA's topic in General chat
I'm going to finish my drying shed....It's been on the bench for 7 years and I've dragged it from Somerset to Denmark. It started as a wall for our extension , but I changed my mind about that. Here's a birds eye with front and back walls, braces still not fitted, been raining, dontchaknow. Happy new year and stay safe.
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I use a flat file too, but I have a Hultafors Sly instead. I keep it razor sharp at just about 30º.
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Breezy from the SW, but drying up later. Looks like we're in for a bit of an Easterly tomorrow, which should cool things down and dry it all off.
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You can get all those lovely Veritas holding cramps from Axminster Power Tools, start saving your pennies, as they're not cheap. Like all good things, you'll only need to buy them once. The bench on the cover is lovely and exceptionally heavy, so make sure you mill some extra thick boards for your cabin floor, as 1" won't cut the mustard.
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You need a workbench for your cabin..... [ame=http://www.amazon.co.uk/Workbenches-Design-Construction-Popular-Woodworking/dp/1558708405/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1451168065&sr=1-2&keywords=workbenches]Workbenches: from Design and Theory to Construction and Use (Popular Woodworking): Amazon.co.uk: Christopher Schwarz: 9781558708402: Books@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51cbVD9GUDL.@@AMEPARAM@@51cbVD9GUDL[/ame]
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I've sent it over. Funny enough, I've got to sort my timing belt and all the others out too, so I had a little read......It seems fairly straightforward. Tell us how you got on.
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Here's some chopping porn, to get you in the mood. [ame] [/ame] I expect to see photographs of dazzling, hand split, garden firewood installations in the coming months.
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I've got one that covers the 2005 model, send over your email and I'll send it to you.
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Rangers are OK. The leaf springs are known to break and I had to replace the glow plugs once in 160000 miles. Other than that it's a good tower and comfortable.
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Read it 3 times now. It's made me start a new round stack "installation" in the garden. I've made them before, but not on this scale. 3.2m ø by 2.5m high plus the pointy roof. All split by hand, Beech, Douglas and Sycamore 2 foot lengths for stability. At halfway stage now, but broken a rib, so a couple of days off. Sheeesh! Beer and a book....guess which one ?
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That sounds like the going rate here. MIL paid £1400 to take down a 700mm Ø Beech in her back garden, including grinding the stump. They removed all the brush and cut and stacked the rest into rings and 3 foot lengths for me to have as firewood and left the garden nice and tidy. 25% vat included and basic rate tax at around 50%.
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Been lovely and sunny, still T shirt weather though. Praying for a bit of frost, as I need to get some Birch from the swamp.
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Well, that will just mean the end of the world.
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Maybe. I was talking about making a maul from Holly. I guess, now I've thought about it a bit more, you were talking about splitting Holly and not your Holly maul splitting.
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You need to take the burr and dry it...don't use it in the rain neither nor.
