Aunt Maud

You could also take a board out of the middle, which will give you some nice quarter sawn stuff and then mill your beams, they won't split if you take the pith out and present a nice solid face to the weather on the frame and stops your mortices filling with water. Or mill parallel to the bark and take a tapered waste containing the pith out of the centre. Old fashioned milling, but easy enough with a chainsaw mill and very economical on timber.

Good for false legs too, if you need one in an emergency.

Thanks chaps indeedy.

It's also really common for people to be robbed twice within a short period, as the tea leaves know that most things need to be replaced asap, especially plant.

I bet it's in the UK still. I had my Ifor Williams flatbed stolen in Somerset and it ended up being a chap over the way who had been stealing them for years and flogging them on. It doesn't just happen in the UK either, theft is rife in Denmark, so if you're ever up this way, make sure it's bolted down to something good and proper.

And if you don't have any pigs, quicklime will get rid of any mess. Sorry to hear about your chipper, b'stards.

Thanks, I don't suppose you know the part number, as I spoke to Carrs in Bristol and they didn't know much about it.

I've gone and stripped the thread in the plastic housing where the front bar stud screws in on my trusty MS230. I've tried to aralidite the stud in, but it didn't do the job. Does anyone have a clever solution to get me out of a bind ?

Where's the emergency stop ?....That scares the **** out of me.

I'm looking at the 3 phase Norwood HD36, but I want to see how quiet it is first. I'm hoping I can extend the bed to 11m and that it will take a 800mm ø stem without any punishment.

Greetings from Jutland. I'm a carpenter and general loafer, specialising in the repair of historic timber framed buildings and mill up my own Oak on a Logosol M8 with a Stihl 880. I'm currently working my way through a crumbly old farmhouse that we purchased about 7 years ago and we moved from Somerset to central Jutland about 5 years ago. I have two small coppice, one of birch and the other of Hazel and Beech and do a bit of hedge laying on my own property. I'm currently thinking of getting a Logosol 3 phase bandsaw for cutting boards and reducing the amount of sawdust I make with the M8. I'm interested in setting up a business milling wide board Oak and Scots Pine for flooring and bent Oak timber for framing, so I'm keen to hear of anyones experiences of that. I can source standing timber from the local state run plantations at about £15 cubic meter in the round for Oak if I fell it myself. I can't see it making me rich, but I should have a bit of fun in the process and get to heat and repair my house for free. It's also nice to know where your timber comes from and how many miles it has clocked up from forest to mill. I also frame the odd gable and install them locally. I studied timber building conservation at The Weald and Downland Museum about 8 years ago, and thoroughly recommend it if that's your bag.

Far too many Oak, Beech, Scots Pine and Larch here in Jutland.....sorry. Except where BIG tractor Ole has gone and got rid of EVERYTHING and all the soil has blown away...Doh!

I thought my 880 was a big saw.......Yours is a whopper.

Plus, halving the log keeps the slab small. I hate waste, unless it's going on the wood burner.

Cutting a tennon where a knot is is tricky, as the grain flows around the knot and you may have to cut the tennon with a saw to keep the shape. When using a chisel it will want to run off and follow the grain and may weaken the tennon. Mortices are not really a problem if you are using a chain morticer. Plus the face the mortice is in will be covered with the infill panel or enclosed in the cladding if you're building a barn. As for the splits running from knot to knot, I've never experienced that, as they usually seem to run up the face and I frame the heart to the outside, as I work on historic frames and not new builds. All of the timber I cut for external walls is halved, as I can keep any sapwood on the inside of the building.

It's the most durable part of the tree, apart from the pith of course, and traditionally the heart is placed to the outside on a timber framed building as its the face less likely to split and doesn't have any sapwood on the edges. If you box the heart you'll get splits on each face when it dries, but you know that already. Funny lot modern framers.

That's interesting, why don't they want heart on the face ?

Hello, my first post here. I mill a bit of Oak and Scots Pine and I'm milling Oak that has laid for 8 years in long grass at the moment. There's not much sapwood left, but the heartwood is still good for milling. There is some mycelium in the ends of the logs that have large amounts of fungal growth on them. The large logs that have stood on the concrete slab for that time have very good heartwood, but the sapwood has decayed.