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Brocky

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Everything posted by Brocky

  1. Brocky
    Here’s a way to lessen the clutter, but using Michoacán’s, they were easier to do than the VTs. Pulleys can still fit in nicely, but went with a lower tech option of a couple of 1/2” plastic thimbles.
  2. Brocky
    The cross loaded carabiner would be a stronger configuration if the two ropes in the larger hms bend were together in the opposite smaller bend. Or just not include that third section of rope in the system. How are you descending with just VT hitches?
  3. Brocky
    Sterling’s Super Static, 11mm, a little bit of stretch.
  4. Brocky
    A Rope Wrench like device can easily be made from the CMI pulley, works nice either Aussie style, like in the picture, or the more conventional way tethered above the hitch.
  5. Brocky
    That’s all for it to hold under load, but not loaded it can be accidentally pulled apart if snagged. Some stitches should be applied, this is Samson’s method Another thing to considered is the taper, it should gradual with no abrupt changes in diameter. From Samson again, and the end of the buried tail is cut off at 45 degree angle, or more for a more gradual taper.
  6. Brocky
    On the old wooden sailing ships that type of configuration is called a cringle. Can’t tell from the picture how it was spliced, but there are three ways to do it with modern ropes. I’m assuming it’s dyneema line, so for a straight bury would need long tapered buried tails, 64 times the line diameter is recommended for running rigging and 72 diameters for standing rigging. The middle crude drawing shows the line passing through itself three times and is then buried, for a brummel, or lock stitch splice. The third is a locked brummel, were the tail goes through the line and then the line goes through the tail to form the lock, and then the tail bury. The blue is the chafe protector for reference.
  7. Brocky
    Yes, I climb on it. The basic parts of the hitch are four wraps, a braid in front over and through a ring, and a twist in back, and then bringing the eyes through the ring again to the front to be clipped. Tied like this it can descend on a stationary rope in a smooth and controlled manner, just not a long or fast descent, but works great for positioning. I use a belay device for longer descents. It’s also adjustable on how much the wraps grab. The distance between the wraps and the ring determines this. The thimble, or an aluminum low friction ring, is part of the twist and replaces using a pulley. And instead of preformed eyes, and trying to make a set length of cord work perfectly, which is not always easy, you can adjust the amount of tension of the hitch by wrapping the cords around the carabiner and tying a stopper knot, making the hitch as tight or loose as you want.
  8. Brocky
    I’m no longer using tail tucked eyes and had to find another use for the whipping twine. The hitch below benefits from the stopper being in back, but it works tying it in the front for other hitches.
  9. Brocky
    Looks good, I like the look of the ones that extend beyond the ends!
  10. Brocky
    There is a thin wall shrink wrap generally used to cover electrical wires, usually black and more like rubber than plastic, but tears more easily than the other.
  11. Brocky
    You’re method sounds like a good way to do it.
  12. Brocky
    That one is 8mm Bailout, but I’m hoping to try them all!
  13. Brocky
    Don’t wait too long to decide, a lot that he carries is out of stock, and with a legal battle ahead he seems to be not making any more. I’ve got the HH2 and it works great, Richard’s version eliminates some of it’s problems. He puts a lot of effort in the cord ends you get for easier threading. The HH2 isn’t available until sometime next year.
  14. Brocky
    A little time, whipping twine, and low heat can give a more finished and permanent result.
  15. Brocky
    For a handicap, the better the climber, the more ropes they have to use.
  16. Brocky
  17. Brocky
    My throwing abilities are based on luck not skill, I’ll be able to throw both balls at the same time to speed things up.
  18. Brocky
    Reminded of this after reading through this thread
  19. Brocky
    What variation of the helical do you use? When I first came across it, it appeared to be a double eye hitch, and was called the Penberthy. Saw in On Rope later that it was a single eye.
  20. Brocky
    The slipping before it grabs doesn’t suit me, kind of like Russian roulette, I’d be constantly wondering if it would grab each time. It’s not a successful combination to me if the hitch doesn’t bite reliably each time. It’s sometimes impossible to make a set length hitch cord work on certain hitches.
  21. Brocky
    The back view of the Sticht on the left is 8mm x 80cm on 11.7 rope, your’s should work, as long as there is enough length to adjust the ring. The four sections of cord going through the ring need to be as close as possible to help the twist keep slack from the wraps transferring to the legs. ISC’s small steel ring works great for this. The Hitch on the left shows a bow shackle replacing the ring. The small accessory cord works great with a neck, or over the shoulder tender, there is very little sit back. The short double eye straps can be used instead of a pulley for easy hand tending.
  22. Brocky
    Perhaps you could try a different friction hitch. The braids of the VT cause it to spread out more than other hitches. A cheaper option to the mechanicals for SRT, are a couple hitches that are fully functional on a fixed line. The one on the left is the Oval VT, a 4-2 VT, with an overhand knot replacing the second braid. The other is the Sticht Hitch, a similar construction, with a tightly constrained twist replacing the overhand. Both don’t allow the wraps to over tighten, which happens to most other hitches. Both hitches can adjust the amount of tension in the wraps by moving the carabiner, or ring up or down. Firmer rope and cords work best. The Sticht is the better due to its easier adjustability.
  23. Brocky
    Looks like he only has one attachment point, the possible Moving Rope system in front.
  24. Brocky
    It’s a very reliable device as long as you understand the concept behind it. It’s not for routine, day to day work, but won’t drop you if it is constantly loaded. It is limited on how large a branch it will go around. I came up with a work around by using a two piece adjustable, double ring friction saver with it. Static ropes work and make it easier to retrieve it with less stretching of the rope.
  25. Brocky
    Did you end up getting this friction hitch cord? If so, how are you liking it?

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