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Brocky

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  1. Hitches can be compact by using just a piece of cord with a stopper knot at the end. The friction, or tension can be adjusted to your liking each time, very helpful with the VT. A 4-2 VT in the picture, the stopper also helps with tending, can be easily done without a pulley. I first tie an overhand for the stopper, test it, then add another behind it. The tether is 8” and still has room to not jam the hitch.
  2. I’d say it’s a 4-2 VT with an overhand for the second braid. The eyes can be moved, with no untying, into two other variations.
  3. My experimental db splice involved lock brummeling the core and cover using the standard bury lengths, and then burying this into the core. It broke at around 92 percent of the rope’s break strength.
  4. Thanks, here are a few more hitches that are similar. And a different way of tying a 4-2 VT, no preformed eyes, just a piece of cord with a stopper knot at the end.
  5. The VT’s functionality is very dependent on the length of the legs, a work around for the longer legs is to bind them together, the closer to the wraps the more reliable the grabbing. Mark, that hitch cord looks to be sewn not spliced. Any idea who came up with the Fitch Hitch?
  6. Usually best to follow the rope or cord manufacturer’s splicing instructions to know you’re doing the splices correctly.
  7. Back in the good ole days that was one of the standard methods of getting the climber in the tree. But he had to rely on the hauler to not drop him at times, no hitch was used.
  8. Needs to be more of a tube than a ring for running on the bridge for improved bend radius. The tube should rotate 360 degrees for even wear
  9. No longer being made for many years. Google search would show one for sale in NZ, but site wouldn’t process, due to a glitch I guess. About a year ago someone from Treebuzz ended up contacting them and they had the one for sale. Good luck!
  10. Looks like it was only attached to outside of the stem, with the branch collar still being attached. Maybe not a “true” branch, but an epicormic?
  11. Looks okay to me, make sure the reductions and the corresponding tapers in the two places that the cover and core match up are of a consistent diameter.
  12. The total cover tail bury length is 700mm, the crossover point is 200mm from the end, and the taper is 200mm from that point, or 300 mm from the 700 mark. For more details, there is a thread in the Splice Rack on Treebuzz about the splice. Samsquanch appears to have done several and has added refinements on the procedure.
  13. Coming out the side will reduce the strength by about 20% from what I’ve read. Another way to make it adjustable would be to try a lock stitch splice, the right number of multiple passes through the rope might create enough friction. And bury as much as possible, with a stopper knot at the end.

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