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Everything posted by Brocky

  1. A little time, whipping twine, and low heat can give a more finished and permanent result.
  2. For a handicap, the better the climber, the more ropes they have to use.
  3. My throwing abilities are based on luck not skill, I’ll be able to throw both balls at the same time to speed things up.
  4. What variation of the helical do you use? When I first came across it, it appeared to be a double eye hitch, and was called the Penberthy. Saw in On Rope later that it was a single eye.
  5. The slipping before it grabs doesn’t suit me, kind of like Russian roulette, I’d be constantly wondering if it would grab each time. It’s not a successful combination to me if the hitch doesn’t bite reliably each time. It’s sometimes impossible to make a set length hitch cord work on certain hitches.
  6. The back view of the Sticht on the left is 8mm x 80cm on 11.7 rope, your’s should work, as long as there is enough length to adjust the ring. The four sections of cord going through the ring need to be as close as possible to help the twist keep slack from the wraps transferring to the legs. ISC’s small steel ring works great for this. The Hitch on the left shows a bow shackle replacing the ring. The small accessory cord works great with a neck, or over the shoulder tender, there is very little sit back. The short double eye straps can be used instead of a pulley for easy hand tending.
  7. Perhaps you could try a different friction hitch. The braids of the VT cause it to spread out more than other hitches. A cheaper option to the mechanicals for SRT, are a couple hitches that are fully functional on a fixed line. The one on the left is the Oval VT, a 4-2 VT, with an overhand knot replacing the second braid. The other is the Sticht Hitch, a similar construction, with a tightly constrained twist replacing the overhand. Both don’t allow the wraps to over tighten, which happens to most other hitches. Both hitches can adjust the amount of tension in the wraps by moving the carabiner, or ring up or down. Firmer rope and cords work best. The Sticht is the better due to its easier adjustability.
  8. Looks like he only has one attachment point, the possible Moving Rope system in front.
  9. It’s a very reliable device as long as you understand the concept behind it. It’s not for routine, day to day work, but won’t drop you if it is constantly loaded. It is limited on how large a branch it will go around. I came up with a work around by using a two piece adjustable, double ring friction saver with it. Static ropes work and make it easier to retrieve it with less stretching of the rope.
  10. Did you end up getting this friction hitch cord? If so, how are you liking it?
  11. Beal has the Access ropes that come in 10.5 and 11mm diameters. Also agree, probably not an issue, because shock loading shouldn't be an issue if slack in the rope is always tended.
  12. Seems like Marlow's Vega splice could be used on this rope, to give a nicer appearing splice.
  13. Brocky


    Darrin, have you tried using a double sheave pulley in your set up posted above? I was wondering if the hitch cords in the other sheave would advance it up the other hitch cord.
  14. Probably best not to burn smooth as that would leave a hard spot on the rope. If it is a pull just follow it around the rope pulling the slack out and distributing it out slowly. If it is partial strands pulled ,as treequip said, tuck the loose bits into the cover.
  15. I wonder if you could use the Hydra if it were turned around with the webbing through the hole and your climb line through the pulley.
  16. I think Kimtree had the best answer back in post #33. Use a quality 11mm semi static rope with an appropriate descending device, with the slack taken out of the system. This leaves you with two hands to exit the bucket. You may get keel hauled going past the lip but you won't go down with the ship! Sterling Rope, as well as other companies make simpler descenders (cheaper) than the Petzl ones. These wer designed for firefighters to exit buildings. Also some fall arrest harness manufacturers make foot straps that snap on to your harness that can be deployed if you're dangling in midair. You can easily adjust their lengths so you have something to stand on to overcome suspension trauma.
  17. The length of the eye tails after tying the VT also effect it's performance; longer tails make it easier to move but the hitch might not grab every time. Shorter tails will bite every time but moving the hitch is harder. Knotting the eyes makes it easier to get the right length, as I see you do.
  18. You're right Joe! But it is a little stressful on the knee and hip joints. I use 9mm HTP regularly and my foot ascender was tearing it up no matter how careful I was, so I go with this method.
  19. Correct Steve, the section of rope coming from the top traps the part going to the ground. Point your toes down and keep it under your bottom as you stand to auto block it. Your other foot dangles or put it on top of other foot to help standing. The first few cycles you have to pull the rope to advance it, but after you gain some height and added weight from the rope you only have to point your toes up, so the rope doesn't fall off, and wiggle your foot to advance the rope.
  20. Instead of buying a foot ascender, do you know about the one foot only footlocking?
  21. Sorry, I couldn't figure out how to edit, I meant small friction hitch in the above post.
  22. Looking at your top picture, instead of the climb line going through the Revolver and clipping to the Ultra O,it stops somewhere just above the small fiction shown. A short section of rope clips to the climb line and goes through the Revolver and attaches to the Ultra O. The short rope has eyes on each end. The small friction saver needs to be moved to the Revolver to the left rope as before but now it is on the short section of rope. The short section only has to be long enough for your main friction hitch to advance long enough away from you. Hope this helps.
  23. Hi, my name is Bob. The best system I found when using an O rig is instead of clipping your climb line eye to the main friction hitch, clip a short section of rope, with an eye on each end, between the two. When you unclip your climb line to advance it everything else stays attached to the rope and harness.


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