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Everything posted by Brocky

  1. Sorry Ben, but you’re at least the third to discover this hitch. It’s recent name is the Penberthy, but it was used in caving years before as the Helical Hitch. The hitch has the problem of the Bowline tightening when loaded, causing the added slack in the wraps to not grab. Bob Thrun came up with a variation that helps to lock in the wraps tension better. Bob’s on top and a slight variation.
  2. Footloops aren’t that stable to stand in because it is hard to keep your center of gravity over your feet. Your toes, or the side of your foot need to be touching the tree to prevent your feet from swinging out from under you. I use them to mostly support only one foot at a time. If you wear hard sole boots smaller cord is always better for weight savings, and there’s no need for a high break strength if it’s not for life support. Splicing 12 strand is much easier than double braid to splice and doesn’t have the length limitations that you mentioned. Straight bury, lock stitch or plain Brummel, and locked Brummel are three ways to make eyes, it’s a strength vs security issue on which to use. The Ice Tail splicing instructions from the manufacturer might still be wrong on some of the measurements resulting in a bump in the middle of the hitch cord. I don’t think friction hitches are recommended for adjustable slings that will be shock loaded, they may slip and cause rope damage. Spider legs are different because mostly static loading only.
  3. Try sliding it up a little when trying to release. The teeth can imbed in the rope at an angle when loaded, sliding up it pops them out.
  4. Couldn’t figure out how to edit last post, a measurement needed correcting
  5. Hope the following helps those looking to do this splice.
  6. There are two sections to the the eye and the cover is half the break strength in a class 1 double braid. Normally, eyes would be twice the strength of the rope, in theory.
  7. There’s a thread on the splice in the Splice Rack on Treebuzz with Cousin’s Atrax. The eye is only cover and the crossover happens farther away from the eye. I used it on some Stable Braid and it was really quite easy, there’s no struggle to do the bury.
  8. If something goes wrong with the main line in the second picture, there wouldn’t be a line to reach the ground, which I think this is all trying to provide for the climber.
  9. I believe a safety system like the ASAP, has to be a dorsal attachment, and not in front, for the same reason a belt only is no longer allowed when in a bucket.
  10. The update by Simon Richmond seems to clarify that both rope systems can be for work positioning, not with one being a dedicated safety line requiring a backup device, shock absorber, and full body harness. Another point is both lines must reach the ground, so one climb line and two lanyards wouldn’t satisfy the requirements.
  11. Kernmantels and double braids both have cores, the db core is usually a 12 strand hollow braid, the kern has individual twisted strands. Another rope construction with a cover and core is core dependent ropes, with a 12 strand hollow braid also but the the tech core carries most of the load. Saw a video on Treebuzz of Drenaline splices testing at an average of 6000lbs, a lot better than the Slaice.
  12. I wonder if it means that they just don’t offer a splice, not there isn’t a splice for it. Teufelberger doesn’t state what type of construction it is, could someone enlighten me, also about Drenaline’s construction, double braids or parallel strands?
  13. It’s as easy as tying two Blake’s with eyes to clip instead of tails to tie stoppers.
  14. Here’s a way to lessen the clutter, but using Michoacán’s, they were easier to do than the VTs. Pulleys can still fit in nicely, but went with a lower tech option of a couple of 1/2” plastic thimbles.
  15. The cross loaded carabiner would be a stronger configuration if the two ropes in the larger hms bend were together in the opposite smaller bend. Or just not include that third section of rope in the system. How are you descending with just VT hitches?
  16. Sterling’s Super Static, 11mm, a little bit of stretch.
  17. A Rope Wrench like device can easily be made from the CMI pulley, works nice either Aussie style, like in the picture, or the more conventional way tethered above the hitch.
  18. That’s all for it to hold under load, but not loaded it can be accidentally pulled apart if snagged. Some stitches should be applied, this is Samson’s method Another thing to considered is the taper, it should gradual with no abrupt changes in diameter. From Samson again, and the end of the buried tail is cut off at 45 degree angle, or more for a more gradual taper.
  19. On the old wooden sailing ships that type of configuration is called a cringle. Can’t tell from the picture how it was spliced, but there are three ways to do it with modern ropes. I’m assuming it’s dyneema line, so for a straight bury would need long tapered buried tails, 64 times the line diameter is recommended for running rigging and 72 diameters for standing rigging. The middle crude drawing shows the line passing through itself three times and is then buried, for a brummel, or lock stitch splice. The third is a locked brummel, were the tail goes through the line and then the line goes through the tail to form the lock, and then the tail bury. The blue is the chafe protector for reference.
  20. Yes, I climb on it. The basic parts of the hitch are four wraps, a braid in front over and through a ring, and a twist in back, and then bringing the eyes through the ring again to the front to be clipped. Tied like this it can descend on a stationary rope in a smooth and controlled manner, just not a long or fast descent, but works great for positioning. I use a belay device for longer descents. It’s also adjustable on how much the wraps grab. The distance between the wraps and the ring determines this. The thimble, or an aluminum low friction ring, is part of the twist and replaces using a pulley. And instead of preformed eyes, and trying to make a set length of cord work perfectly, which is not always easy, you can adjust the amount of tension of the hitch by wrapping the cords around the carabiner and tying a stopper knot, making the hitch as tight or loose as you want.
  21. I’m no longer using tail tucked eyes and had to find another use for the whipping twine. The hitch below benefits from the stopper being in back, but it works tying it in the front for other hitches.
  22. Looks good, I like the look of the ones that extend beyond the ends!
  23. There is a thin wall shrink wrap generally used to cover electrical wires, usually black and more like rubber than plastic, but tears more easily than the other.
  24. You’re method sounds like a good way to do it.
  25. That one is 8mm Bailout, but I’m hoping to try them all!


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