Brocky
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Everything posted by Brocky
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Beal has the Access ropes that come in 10.5 and 11mm diameters. Also agree, probably not an issue, because shock loading shouldn't be an issue if slack in the rope is always tended.
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Seems like Marlow's Vega splice could be used on this rope, to give a nicer appearing splice.
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Darrin, have you tried using a double sheave pulley in your set up posted above? I was wondering if the hitch cords in the other sheave would advance it up the other hitch cord.
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Probably best not to burn smooth as that would leave a hard spot on the rope. If it is a pull just follow it around the rope pulling the slack out and distributing it out slowly. If it is partial strands pulled ,as treequip said, tuck the loose bits into the cover.
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I wonder if you could use the Hydra if it were turned around with the webbing through the hole and your climb line through the pulley.
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I think Kimtree had the best answer back in post #33. Use a quality 11mm semi static rope with an appropriate descending device, with the slack taken out of the system. This leaves you with two hands to exit the bucket. You may get keel hauled going past the lip but you won't go down with the ship! Sterling Rope, as well as other companies make simpler descenders (cheaper) than the Petzl ones. These wer designed for firefighters to exit buildings. Also some fall arrest harness manufacturers make foot straps that snap on to your harness that can be deployed if you're dangling in midair. You can easily adjust their lengths so you have something to stand on to overcome suspension trauma.
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The length of the eye tails after tying the VT also effect it's performance; longer tails make it easier to move but the hitch might not grab every time. Shorter tails will bite every time but moving the hitch is harder. Knotting the eyes makes it easier to get the right length, as I see you do.
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You're right Joe! But it is a little stressful on the knee and hip joints. I use 9mm HTP regularly and my foot ascender was tearing it up no matter how careful I was, so I go with this method.
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Correct Steve, the section of rope coming from the top traps the part going to the ground. Point your toes down and keep it under your bottom as you stand to auto block it. Your other foot dangles or put it on top of other foot to help standing. The first few cycles you have to pull the rope to advance it, but after you gain some height and added weight from the rope you only have to point your toes up, so the rope doesn't fall off, and wiggle your foot to advance the rope.
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Instead of buying a foot ascender, do you know about the one foot only footlocking?
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Sorry, I couldn't figure out how to edit, I meant small friction hitch in the above post.
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Looking at your top picture, instead of the climb line going through the Revolver and clipping to the Ultra O,it stops somewhere just above the small fiction shown. A short section of rope clips to the climb line and goes through the Revolver and attaches to the Ultra O. The short rope has eyes on each end. The small friction saver needs to be moved to the Revolver to the left rope as before but now it is on the short section of rope. The short section only has to be long enough for your main friction hitch to advance long enough away from you. Hope this helps.
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Hi, my name is Bob. The best system I found when using an O rig is instead of clipping your climb line eye to the main friction hitch, clip a short section of rope, with an eye on each end, between the two. When you unclip your climb line to advance it everything else stays attached to the rope and harness.
