stihlmadasever

Hello all, Im looking at doing my cs40 aerial pruning techniques and on reading up i came across coronet cuts,something ive never heard of before,the description is as follows. A coronet cut is for producing a natural fracture effect in the cut stubs ends of the tree.It is carried out as a pruning treatment of the stub ends or limb to mimic the natural breakage.The form of the coronet cut is designed to shape the branch or trunk end surface to resemble the fracture that might be imagined following a storm to give it a shattered appearance. Does anyone have experience of using this technique..? Can anyone explain what situation this technique would be employed and what species of tree would benefit from it. Thanks in advance to anyone answering Cheers

My mate had a husky that was rough round the edges,he got the serial number and looked up online for the year of manufacture,failing that you could contact the husqvarna technical team with the serial number

Yeah,its not the warmest jacket but it keeps you dry and its ventilated.Put a jumper underneath it...great. Cut and climb would probably be the best option but very very pricey

Ive tried loads of trousers and you sweat your knackers off in all of them,espesially with chainsaw trousers underneath. Jacket wise ive had my stihl rain jacket for years its never let me down,vents under each armpit for ventilation.

Farty noises are always good for a giggle...

There seems to be consistant bad reports in the newer models with the electronic systems.Been some threads on these forums of late.Not good for stihls reputation espesially when dolmar and echo are getting great reviews on there saws.

Never heard of a 540 having starting issues,had mine in the lock up for 6 weeks,put fresh fuel in and it started straight away.Hope you get it sorted, as you say its got great grunt-even when its nose is buried in the wood.

Whats the issue with the 540 if you dont mind me asking,ive had one a while,it rarely gets a run out just now but when i have its been an absolute demon.

I only use old stihls,261's 044,441 660 200t,and all are great,never had a problem with any and thats why i recommend an older stihl saw.What ive read on these forums and been told is that the newer stihls are problematic hence in my opinion i recommend avoiding them.

Its on now...stihl,husky,dolmar,echo the debate starts here...again haha. Good luck mate

Oooh thats an idea....!

I have no experience with either saw but the new stihl chainsaws are...how can i put this delicately...crap. They are notorious for being unreliable,even if you get a new one that runs for a while,id wager my mortgage it'll be in the workshop before the guidebar warms up. Get the older model 261- no cm or cbe nonsense.

If it fits in my big cup ,and most biscuits/cakes do,its gettin dunked...not dunkin biscuits/cakes is the crime in my book

Stunning location reg,reminds me of north western Scotland in some shots.

Been done in a previous thread,outcome was the hobnob-purely for the Peter Kay joke...dunk me...dunk me again...im goin nowhere son...dunk me again. Im the only person i know who dunks jaffa's...this is concidered a crime against biscuits by the lads in the van...

So im not the only one who had a blue monday pisser then,thank #@*! its over till next year.

I feel your pain mate,we lost half a pack of mv vities toffee digestives...i bloody love those biscuits

Those bickies have gone..mechanics will have got there dirty paws on em

Just had an absolute shocker of a day,van wouldnt start at the yard so had to remove all our gear and take the chipbox off,which fell apart when we done so,managed to get a replacement van which smelled like a boxers armpit and was rancid inside. When we reversed the van to hitch up the chipper,we realised someone hadnt taken the safety wire off the other van when unhitching and had bust it. Finally after some dicking about we got out on site and started the job which was 3 poplar removals in the cold,pissin rain. Some way through we stopped for a much needed cuppa- ( no bickies as some knob left them in the other van)-and decided to go tip the van at the yard,only to be stopped by the rozzers who proceeded to ask all manor of questions pertaning to our trailer documents,vehicle gross weight unladen,vehicle gross weight fully loaded with chip blah blah blah...i think they were bored and fancied a laugh to be honest. Finally when we got back on site we were informed,rather sheepishly, that the blower was missing... blue monday can kiss my ass ! Hope someone gets a laugh out of this cause i bloody didnt:thumbdown:

Simply put its about tending slack really,if you have your hitch at waist or stomach height,you pull the rope to ascend meaning you have to pull the slack through the pulley as you hold the rope one handed,when the hitch is above you you dont have to tend slack as your pulling the slack through as you ascend. All this can be avoided by using a pantin or askin your groundie to pull the slack for you,but not everyone has groundies or pantins so its just another option

But how does he derive how much his product is worth without costing an hourly rate

Yeah thats the o rig set up i think,ive only ever used the hitch climber which is similar,i used the distel,michocan and VT for my hitch climber setup. I found the VT to be a bit fiddley and needed a bit of tending now and then the other two hitches worked perfect.I only changed hitches when i used other hitch cords. Its up to you to find which system suits your climbing style,play around with hitches and pulleys to see whats your preference.

Or add an extension to your bridge,like a prussik loop so your under the hitch and no need to tend slack.Once you've ascended to where you want to be remove the prussik and the hitch is at belly height again..can be done with a zigzag aswell

We knew wot u meant even if the computer-ma-jiggery didnt..

I dont c the need for the prussik there... am i being thick ?...wouldnt b the 1st time tbh