maybelateron

Poplar Willo Alder

I have a H Max Power Barrow I bought from Fresh Group Products Limited. I find it excellent for moving timber and anything else for that matter. It has hydraulic tip, with 2 spare spool valves. It is 4 wheel drive. I guess it would not match a tracked equivalent for traction on a muddy slope. Having said that, we have used it with weight in it to pull some decent sized trunks over when I could not get anything bigger into place due to access restrictions.

Yes, quiet roads during the first and only real lockdown was such a bonus. Made crossing the city so much more tolerable, dare I say a joy almost.

I have always assumed the reason so many conifer hedges next to main roads that get gritted, and have heavy traffic with consequent spray when wet after gritting, is the salt they are exposed to. Doesn't mean I'm right of course.

Sorry to hear all this. But yes, it probably has saved hassle later on if that is how his wife wants to be. I employed a young woman for a few years, and was sorry to see her move on (to a tree officer job). She was one of the best workers I have have had, and good fun to work with. You'll find someone less controlled/more sensible who will take you on, and they will, l I'm sure, be better bet for you in the long term. Keep battling on, good luck.

Here is my invoice template to deal with the situation: Supply and deliver 2 cubic metres of unseasoned hardwood logs. This is my advice about the logs: These logs are not ready for burning and need to be dried until the moisture content is 20 per cent or lower. They need to be stored with good ventilation, the more air flow the better. Moisture meters are readily available to buy online for a few pounds. This is the “official” advice about unseasoned logs: This wood is not suitable for burning until it has been dried. You should not burn wood until it has a moisture content of 20% or less. Wet wood contains moisture which creates smoke and harmful particulates when burnt. As well as being harmful to your health and the environment, this can damage your stove and chimney and is an inefficient way to heat your home. Dry it in a sunny, well-aired space for at least two years, keeping rain off in the winter. Radial cracks and bark that comes off easily suggests wood that is ready for burning. Test the wood when you think it is ready for burning, ideally with a moisture meter. First calibrate the meter and then measure a freshly split surface to get the best reading.

It was a requirement for a grounds maintenance contract we had, and still is at the same place where we just look after the trees now. Difficult to know if it brings in more work - I routinely attach a copy of my Safecontractor and insurance certificates to the email when I send quotes out. Hard to know if if helps, but I am never short of work, and these days we are 90 per cent domestic work.

I have been Safecontractor approved for 6 years or so. That might be another option for you?

How do you find the dust aspect of London Plane when sawing it? Do you get sore itchy eyes/wheezey chest at all?

That is serious top shelf chainsaw porn

I understand what you are saying, but I would not want my sign written vehicle alongside that kind of job - could lead to people thinking we are cowboys I reckon.

Guns n Roses

Brought back the timber yesterday from a large Beech dismantling. Got it all into manageable pieces and under cover before end of the day. Now for a day on the splitter and sawbench under cover + changing chipper blades and servicing kit. Defo not climbing today💩

Truly impressive stuff and kit.

Looks pretty grim to me. The Churnet at Cheddleton has burst its banks, but not got any photos of that for Eggs.

That must be awful, I'm really sorry to hear that. We are luckier on high ground. Constant rain last 2 days, been doing a massive conifer hedge reduction (which I underpriced), freezing fog today, but meant to be a bit if sun later. Sounds like we are the lucky ones in North Staffs.

At 61 being stiff has a different meaning these days.

Carbon dating? I think you are being very diplomatic there. 😇

There are no qualifications needed to be a basic groundie if you are only dragging brash, moving timber etc. A climber should have one groundie on the job who is qualified in carrying out aerial rescue of a casualty, so you would only be of use (to a team who go by the rule book) where the job has 3 people or more. From an insurance point of view you should have a certificate of training in use of a chipper, if you are going to use one. If you have a pre 97 driving licence, or a trailer towing licence that can be useful. The best attribute you can offer is being reliable, punctual, fun to work with even when the weather is awful etc. Using initiative stands out, like picking up a rake when there is a lull in the activity - but don't go into the climber's drop zone unannounced! What part of the country are you in.

I would rate this as being of lower importance myself. Most customers will know and Oak as an Oak, not Quercus Robur etc. I am not saying there is anything wrong with knowing the Latin names, just that there are far more useful things.

I have often thought of investing in a small processor, but can't convince myself it is worth it for our domestic arb waste. We use a lot of logs ourselves and sell the rest. When do you ever see a video of a processor with awkward gnarly timber going through it. We use a venom 22ton splitter (can be horizontal or vertical) and split rings and 20 inch lengths. The 20 inch lengths then get sawn using the pto sawbench. I think this is about the most efficient way we can manage to process timber of the sort we bring in from domestic work.

I have been trading for 20 years, running a small tree surgery firm, doing 90 per cent domestic work. We do sell logs, but domestic arb waste is much more labour intensive to process due to the inconsiderate trees having gnarly crotches, unlike their woodland/forest cousins who just play reach for the sky. I only sell unseasoned logs, and have for years only delivered a minimum load size of 2 cubic metres, as any less is not worthwhile for me. In more recent times we just put any really awkward bits to one side, then take a load of them to a place along the road who put it through their big Heizohack chipper for biomass. I regard our firewood part of the business as something to do when the weather is too bad to be on site, rather than a profit earner in its own right. I manage to sell all of my deciduous woodchip as garden mulch/chicken run cover etc, and this is more worthwhile than the logs. I sell it at £23 per cubic metre +/- delivery depending on load size and distance.

Does your derg bite? That was one of the best from Peter Sellers. Sorry to go off thread!

Oh, I get it now vicar. Said Alice!

I'm a bit dim here - still haven't got it. Please explain, someone.