Haironyourchest

Ok so then it would be 300kg WWL on one leg, or 600kg if using it DdRT. Thats a strong wee pulley. If its considered to be a rigging device, that is. I will consider it PPE anyway. Only want to hoist a double glazed unit into place with a pair if them, so they'll be well within their limits. Thanks for your replies

Nice one, thanks. I just checked my climbing pulley (small one) it actually says on the pulley - 30kn total, 15kn on each leg. Thats a lot for a tiny pulley! I suppose the WWL then would be a fifth of that, so them little pulleys are really only supposed to be used for hoisting 150kg with one leg tied off, which makes sense, given the size of the thing.

By the way, Jap knotweed shoots are edible - delicious tastes like mild rhubarb. My next door neighbour used to make crumble with it, and is still going strong. The Japanese make tea from the leaves.

Just occurred to me, does the working load limit of a pulley indicate the total max load of the pulley or just one fall? I have a couple of 4-tonn snatch blocks, but the shackles that came attached to the blocks are WLL 6-tonn. Don't know if that means anything. If I haul an object with my block, with one fall of the rope being pulled by a winch and the other fall attached to an anchor point, and I put 4 tons of force on the rope with the winch, then the total load on the block is 8 tonns. I would have presumed the WWL is that of the mechanical advantage, not the winch pull. Makes me wonder, if I am correct, if people are sometimes overloading their pulleys in the tree. Like a 15kn alloy pulley would have a WWL of 150kg approx - right? This means that if the rope is tied off to the base of the tree, then the WWL should be halved - giving 75kg? Surely that can't be right.

I heard an old belief in Ireland is if you tell a tree you're going to fell it, the other trees around will faint with shock. So you must always tell a neighbouring tree that you intend to fell it - not the actual tree - so your actual target will faint and you can fell it while it's unconscious to spare it the pain.

I'll just leave this here....(Lady has a relationship with a tree called "Tim" and wants to marry him) https://plantintelligence.wordpress.com/2015/03/23/im-in-love-with-a-tree-its-the-best-sex-i-ever-had/

Its called a Yosaku...one of those "hmmm" moments. [ame] [/ame]

I can't remember the concentration, but a search would reveal it. I think spraying after cutting is maybe not going to work, as roundup is absorbed through the leaves and the plant has to be alive and circulating in order to carry the roundup to the roots. I believe when cut, the capillaries in the stem close up but I could be wrong. Cutting at full growth, then spraying the next growth is also said to be effective. There's a lot of energy stored in the rhyzome system, so the idea is to let the plant put that energy into growth, cut the growth before the plant can start storing energy again, and repeat, gradually depleting the energy stores till the plant gives up and dies. Can be done without chemicals, just takes vigilance and time.

Glyphosate is effective if injected directly into the stem at the right time of growth and in the right concentration. Every single stem has to be treated. You could do this yourself if you buy the special injector (£400?) but it can be done painstakingly with a livestock syringe. It does work, but there will still be some life in the rhizome that will come back the following year, but the growth will be very stunted. This growth could be reinjected or just sprayed. My uncle had it done at vast expense and it worked well.

Maybe so, it would be flexible by its nature. Still would stop the chain penetrating far though. It was Oldwoodcutter's "Close Call" thread that started me thinking. Remember that lad who was killed by his topper biting him in the neck? I don't know the details but if it were the back of the bar that hit him, maybe this invention might have saved him. Im thinking at some stage I will have to chuck down a spar, and the idea of gaffing out and slipping onto the back of the bar has me thinking. I realise guys do this every day and with proper technique there should not be any possibility of that happening, yet - people do have accidents.

JimThere may be a solution that allows a SRT acsess with the base anchor advantage while at the same time isolating the access line to the tree. Imagine, if you will, a coupling of the access and ancor rope under the branch or crotch. This coupling would grab tight on the anchor but slip on the acsess, allowing a small bit of slack in the anchor, thus putting all the weight on the access. If the anchor was cut it wouldn't affect the access. The problem would be how to remotely remove the coupling by the groundie - the solution would be a quick release device activated by a light throw line which could run parallel with the anchor line. How to build a quick release device I would leave to better mechanical mi ds than mine.

Ah yeah, thats probably where I got the idea. Feck, everything been invented already. I was thinking the target end user would be myself actually. Bit of a sissy, me.

Looks par for the course to my eyes. Back cut looks like its below the hinge - should be slightly above it, so I guess he got that wrong. No PPE obviously, but, like I said - par for the course, unfortunately. He should have roped it really.

That could be an issue...I imagine it being about an inch wide, and no thicker than the bar - maybe 2/3ds the thickness of the bar - so the chain width would be substantially thicker. Do you think there would be enough compression one inch back from the bar top to pinch? Oftentimes I buck halfway through a log under tension before it starts to pinch the bar. One would have to use it judiciously, more thinking of horizontal cuts on stems while gaffing, and I suppose a wedge would be required.

Yes thats true. I suppose it could have a quick release mech so you could attach it to the dogs/spikes without unbolting the spikes. Would only be used for situations where one really wanted to reduce risk at the expense of productivity.

Thinking about the hazard presented by the top side of the chain - no need to give examples. Wouldn't this effectively render the top side less dangerous in the event of an accidental contact? I was thinking about gaffing out on a pole while starting the cut, that kind of thing - not to be used all the time but in higher than normal risk situations. It would be an extension of the felling dogs, made of spring steel. The same width as the bar, and the two edges blunt or rounded to avoid snagging on wood fibres. Anyone know if this has been invented before?

Hi there, I subscribed, got to the page with the books and the download button but when I clicked it didn't download - just a few pages in a new window.

Definitely inertia. Happens often to my 201 c when de-branching tight trees, the break activates at the merest hint of a kickback. I make a point of blowing out the break works regularly, amazing how much crud builds up in there.

In several years of lurking on arb sites - and gleaning much valuable knowledge - that is the most brilliant thing I have read. That's what I'm going to do, and I hadn't thought of it. So glad I checked. The rescue thing is the one thing that stumped me while working as a groundie, in. Fact it just wasn't a possibility. Thanks man.

Wouldn't be that hard to build....a drill motor, low geared, and a small capstan...chuck a free fall arrest cam in there somewhere. I hear they've discovered a way to prolong the lifespan of lithium batteries - Whereas now they can be recharged a thousand times, soon it will be fifty or a hundred thousand - effectively a battery for life.

Its only a matter of time before the lithium-ion powered multicender is invented.

Hi Eddie, welcome. I was debating the same choice, and researched exhaustively. I bought the 461 and its been exceptionally good. The vibes are lower than I thought they would be. A reliable and powerful machine. Cant speak about the 441 but there have been many reports of problems, although its said to be a nicer user experience. If you go for either, look into getting the high output oil pump - it looks identical to the regular one but its not the same. My 461 was using about half a tank of chain oil to a tank of petrol before - with the new oiler its 1:1 - I run Lidl/Aldi rapeseed oil for chain lube.

I run aspen in them before storage. Some of the guys say that can cause problems with the tubes if the tubes are used to petrol. But I believe the modern rubber components are pretty good in terms of chemical resistance, its the carb valves that will suffer from gummy petrol.

Mine does chip occasionally but only very tiny chips, usually when it hits an embedded stone in the log end or stump top - splitting on a gravel driveway its bound to happen. It came with a roller type sharpener that works very well, takes very little metal off and gets it razor sharp again.

No you're right on, we have the latest version. It certainly wasnt cheap, was 400 ish, and it's big. It does fold away but even when folded it's still big and it's a hassle. We found that if we put it away we just didn't use it, so it's set up 24-7 in the kitchen/living room. Sharing our space and lives with the gadget makes us use it every day - herself twice a day. We got used to its presence. My folks tried it and acquired one too. The way we look at the cost is to decide it by two, and then decide by the many thousands of sessions we are likely to get out of it, and it's heavy duty built for life. Works out at 1 cent per minute. That's cheap back protection, if it keeps us trouble free. Experiments suggest that people who invert regularly don't shrink as they age, as the disks stay plump. Good for the inner organs as well. It's true it does put a bit of a strain on the knees, but that can be fixed with a hip belt and strap to the ankle clamp, so the knees and ankles don't take any weight. We feel it benefits our knees, but maybe that's only if your knees aren't too bad in the first place, I don't know. Also, you can set the gradient so you needn't invert completely they say 60 degrees gives the same benefits. I'd try the harness thing, set up a plank against a tree at 45-60 degrees and just hang - it hurt the first time, as the disks have seldom if ever been reverse loaded. Can't recommend it enough. Plus, it makes your woman look like a cartoon character, if you know what I mean.