Cuttup

Meant to say...if you're only getting one saw, I would go medium range around 50-60cc, you can get throufggh a lot with that and its not too cumbersome. German or Swedish, whatever floats your logs.

Apart from the excellent advice already offered...I use the lightest possible saw that is big enough for the task. Husqvarnas all the way for me, but whatever brand you use , similar principles apply. 15" softwood? a 346 is fine. 15" hardwood I'd go a 365. If you're regularly getting into bigger stuff like hardwood firewood >20" I would consider getting something with more power. You learn when a saw is struggling so why push a wee saw to its limits? I also recommend using the shortest bar as is sensible. I never run the max size bar for a given saw as default, only when totally necessary e.g. a massive tree, I've got a 36" bar which goes on the 395, but then I'm straight back to something more sensible like 24 at soonest opportunity.

Had a client recently enquired about having a tree next to his new extension worked upon or removed. On the face of it the tree does not appear particularly unsafe. What I struggle with is that 3 members form the (Scottish) local authority planning department have apparently visited the new build and decreed that the tree (stem <1m from new structure) CANNOT be trimmed; lopped or removed. How can this be combatted? Presumably the local authority will not take responsibility for, say, storm damage, and his insurers will not cover the house, as it is so close to the building. Is anybody aware of any precedent for this or how best to approach the local authority. It seems grossly unfair to put such stipulations in place without having the responsibility to care for the tree into the future. I am a tree surgeon, so this is not my area of expertise but I really want to try and help this guy out with some sensible advice. Any comments or experience of similar issues warmly welcome. Thanks.

Ok guys thanks for your input - still haven't decided but I appreciate all your feedback

Ok. Some good ideas to work on. I'll see how I get on and then ask for your address!! Thanks all for contruibutions

Has anyone any comparison to make on these two books:BOOK105 - Art & Science of Practical Rigging Book and BOOK123 - Best Practices for Rigging in Arboriculture Book? Apart from the obvious price difference, they both appear to be American publications (not a fan of imperial when it comes to weight and forces) Is one significantly better than the other? Alternatively could anyone recommend a good (British) alternative? I've been dismantling trees for a wee while but am interested in some more theory and techniques.

Spud, and others, I'm sure you've discussed this a million x so please bear with me...ms200 (c. 2005) but never done more than a years work in total. Irregular revs. Put in new carb kit all looked good. Changed fuel filter and line. Still starts fine. Tuned up fine and was picking up and hitting full power fine. Thought I was sorted. Went back half an hour later - same problem. Starts revs to max then won't pick up and dies. Air leak (from where)? New carb? Been faffing about with this for ages - just when it seems good it dips again. More than a little frustrated - any guidance much appreciated.

Thanks Jim - and everyone else for your thoughts. I found various legislation on the power fed as you highlighted above, but the drop/gravity fed guidance obviously takes a bit more research which you have kindly shared. I've never considered one until now as I have a tractor and mobiles are so expensive - just a thought. Cheers guys

Does anyone know the legal implications of gravity fed chippers ie what safety features they have to have? Anybody used one? Cheers

Probably not critical, but does anyone know the correct diameter for starter cord for a Husky 365 and ms200T respectively. thanks

SRT and DRT both use one length of rope not 2. I can see why you're confused.

If its not for full time use consider a Husky 365 it will take bigger bars. Not the fastest saw but plenty torque and a wee bit cheaper. As ever depends what you're using it for

Its definitely not pussying out mate! One tree blown, the next swaying from the root plate up. Would you rather be a pussy or a total retard? Turns out you're neither! The other thing to remember, the boss might have been slightly annoyed that day but on reflection he may think actually, Pault had a point. Console yourself with this. I bet whoever climbed it was absolutely packing it (and probably thinking "never again"). Moneys not all that much use when your brown bread.

I was never trained to climb the tree; I was trained to climb the rope. Nor should you be in a position where fall arrest is required doing tree work using a low stretch rope . The only exception to this I can think of (it its still current) is when you are allowed to go 60cm above your anchor point.

You sound quite passionate about this Agrimob. I agree with you that some of the H&S is a bit of a hassle and that, on the face of it common sense goes out the window, but as someone mentioned earlier, these are the times in which we live. Beware of this though. The Act (Health and Safety at Work 1974) IS legally binding and to break it is unlawful and can lead to prosecution. The regulations are mandatory and the guidelines or best practice as they are often called are the sort of day to day handbook. You are correct when you say they are not laws, but in the event of an incident or prosecution the court will look to see if industry best practice (as outlined in appropriate codes of practice) has been followed. If it has not and there is not mitigating evidence to support the use of NON best industry practice you may well be summarily rodgered by whichever court you are unfortunate enough to be stood before. We all know the law is an ass but don't let it kick you

West coast Sitka. Brashing/outsiders/out of reach for harvester etc. minimum 7.5 - 10 litres a day running my Husky 262. Used to get £70 a day in 2001. Was about £100/day in 2005 surely it should be £120+ these days??

I'm not sure what assistance you can give from the dripline on the ground. If you are lowering a casualty then that is all you should concentrate on. One advantage of a descender (ID) would be that you can lock off and leave the casualty very quickly. If you are controlling the casualty and wander away with a rope through a Figure8 and you trip/ get stung by a bee/ have heart attack etc then the casualty on the end of the rope will not be grateful as they plummet to the ground

Is anyone using descenders like and Id or Rig for base anchors? Theoretically should be good no? Hard lock it through karabiner That way no knots to contend with; lower climber/casualty to ground straight forward

Agree with everyone. Take it easy. Assessors push you harder when people try and impress or rush or are generally smart ar###. The prime objective is to show competence - not expertise. Safety first. You'll be fine

I think you might be missing the point here. The way to make (more) money is through education and marketing. As an industry its all our responsibility to try and educate. Not everyone wants to hear it, so let them go and buy rubbish. Peop-le round here don't come back if they've had a bad/wet load. As for volume/weight etc. sell the customer what they want. Do the conversion for them and tell them the tonne price if that is what they want

Did same as yourself. Good to have the flexibility if you run a variety of bar lengths. I would go with the Husky roller type guides if you're not used to sharpening - they're near enough idiot proof. When you get good at sharpening you'll not only save time you'll be able to do it whilst ballroom dancing

Negative rigging? That's a curious term. I started on hitches and have moved to slings and Krabs. I still use knots especially on smaller jobs eg if I've only got a few limbs to lower but I can't believe that you boys are getting the job done quicker with timber hitches and cloves quicker than slings because you have to wait for the rope to come back before you can tie the knot as oppose to simply clipping onto a pre-set sling. Its also way quicker for ground staff to disconnect. I agree though - you must know the basics and limits of whichever system you use.

I followed the same route as the guy you described - think I went to Merrist Wood at age 22. You definitely learn your cuts and how to sharpen (or avoid killing) your chain in production forestry. I've worked with arb guys who have been doing 5 years plus and their felling cuts still make me nervous. Definitely different industries but if I had 2 guys wanting a start in arb and one had forestry experience and the other arb I would go forestry. Anything after forestry is comparatively easy. (maybe not sheep shearing - that's tough too)

395. At the risk of sounding like a Luddite...proven technology and peace of mind. Fantastic saw all round. If you go 661 would like to hear your thoughts though.

I think different things work for different people. If you've tried all that stuff unsuccessfully you've got nothing to lose cold turkey style. Personally; addiction to smoking was much more associated with my mind and habit and thoughts. The actual physical addiction is easier to let go than you think. If you know why you smoke or want to smoke or what triggers you to light the next one perhaps it will be easier to stop. It's proper hard, but Keep trying to quit. Good luck