Cuttup
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Everything posted by Cuttup
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I was a passionate smoker. Haven't had one for 11 years. Everyone knows the negatives. I would focus more on the positives but much more than that you have to want to quit. I prepared myself over 12 months then set a date. I was smoking full tilt (20-40 fags on a night out, less during normal days) until I quit. Cold turkey. Forget the substitutes like nicorette etc Take yourself away from the situations like other smokers (where possible) the moments you always smoke eg after dinner or with a pint or cup of tea. Be strong. Its not easy, and maybe you'll miss some elements but on balance, from my experience, you'll feel better both physically and emotionally. Good luck and keep trying. If you relapse try again.
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Wait a minute! Everyone lists there 15 billion chainsaws they carry around everyday. So why only one pruner? Zubat and Gomtaro all the way! (plus a wee foldable Sandvik for dismantles and road rage)
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I've got an old 365 and a 365 Special. Must agree the special is a cracking saw. Never tried the x torq
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A quick search finds one new for 540 quid. So perhaps you could work back from there. I wouldn't want to spend more than 300 on a second hand saw that I could get new at that price, unless it was an absolute pearler and how many of those are around?
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Biomike1000. I think other members have covered the qualities of Hornbeam... but FYI timbers are broadly classified into terms such as: non-durable 0-5 years; moderately durable 5-15 years; durable 15-25 years; very durable 25+ years. These times, generally, refer to how long decay becomes obvious. So starting at the bottom of the durability scale would be common British species such as Hornbeam, Birch most spruces etc ND; European Larch, Westren Red Cedar etc MD; Sweet Chestnut etc D; Oak etc VD. This is just a guide but you see there is a spectrum and some species are simply not suitable for outdoor use as they will perish very quickly such as our mate Carpinus betulus. By the way if you've got any good sticks it might be worth more to a sawmill than a fireplace. Wills-mill. I do like your specifics!
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Moisture content is one of the biggest issues. You need to be sub 25% for a lot of systems. You need consistency. Few folk doing it now so check there prices and work back from there. Its a commodity and you will have no control on price. If you have a steady cheap timber supply thats a big bonus, but also consider proper chipping and storage facilities. Are there any disused farm buildings you could rent or buy? If you do it half baked be spending loads, but with a sub-standard product. We're looking at putting in a 200Kw boiler and the biggest issues for us will be finding quality chip at the right MC. Fines, as mentioned by others are generally a boilers worst nightmare. Check out The big chip company in Argyll for some inspiration and or confirmation that capital costs may preclude descent returns.
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Now that's what I'm talking about Mr. Pierce. Lovely bit of footage. Bit light on the rebuild though...
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I'm stunned. Is there really no market down there? Have you tried some of the biomass burner fuel supppliers? Could you create a market? I know commodities are largely beyond the individuals control when it comes to price but if you've got that much could you set up an additional business making biomass chip or pellet grade material and if that's not your bag could you find an enterprising individual or company that you could team up with so that you can both make a quid? I'm in Scotland, otherwise I'd be keen to take it off your hands...
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Hornbeam is not durable but it will take preservative, so yes I would put something on the stuff going in the ground. I would also remove the bark, it will only encourage beasties which you probably won't want. Is there a specific reason you chose hornbeam for your project? Good strong timber, but not the best outdoors...
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Had my 395 for years. Cracking saw. My mates got a 385 which he is pretty keen on if you want something a bit smaller. Anyone bought a 395 from USA on ebay?
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Important, Your help needed for knot database
Cuttup replied to Steve Bullman's topic in Climbers talk
I use a Distel Hitch for 'prussiking'. Rest I imagine are the usual suspects various Bowlines etc. Alpine Butterfly is a handy knot for some midline applications. Reckon you can get by with half a dozen knots and does well to know them backwards. I'm interested in knots but I realise many people are less so. Trouble is if you don't use them often enough, you forget them -
Meant to say: just for shits and giggles can you please video the job using the new kit and a hammer, or better still a range of different sized hammers. Hope it goes well - whichever tools you use...
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I got Carb kit from L&S Engineers for my MS200T. Prompt delivery. Costs about 15 quid + VAT. New Carb from them about 85 + VAT
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I'm rope access too (arborist first). You could try a Rig and stay firmly within IRATA regs (they do not condone prusiks) Its much easier to pull rope through than the cumbersome ID or if you like ID's why not get one with the button which allows free passage of the rope? I wouldn't be getting involved with 4 ropes. Regardless - test whatever system you use and stay safe.
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You can get a 171 less than 200 inc VAT. Are you unhappy with your current 171? If not you could buy a new one and keep your current one for spares. I haven't used the Echo your thinking of so can't comment, but the warranty would indicate a half descent saw for its class. There's a massive thread on this and some boys just bought Solos for similar sounding use. Check that out
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Darkslider Looks like a good deal. There will be no 'I told you so' form me! I think its good that people are prepared to try other brands, I'm a bit too cautious. Hopefully it will be up to the standard you require.
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Just to clarify... I wasn't calling Solo an unknown brand. I stated that I would avoid unknown brands eg cheap Chinese brands. I can't remember the Solo models I used but one a top handled and the other around 50cc. I also used them in Australia. Don't know if that is relevant but like most things in life, when you have a negative experience it takes a good reason to favour something when there are other (and proven) options available. I'd say the same oi Efco. All these saws are interesting, and I'm sure some models are probably not too bad, and sometimes a bit cheaper, but presumably there is a reason for that and a reason why these brands are not favoured by pro users.
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Husky 236 for £170. Tidy wee saw for occassional use. Friend bought one recently. Stihl doing a similar deal but I'm more towards Husky myself. Used Solo saws in the past not a good experience overheating, cutting out etc. Definitely avoid unknown cheapie brands!
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Hi all. I'm a new to the forum. Been doing trees a while. I would suggest you buy a saw big enough to cut the majority of what you plan to. ie if you're only doing the occassional 36" plus diameter then can you justify the 3120? I would worry less about capital cost but physical cost on your body. Have you used these big saws? Try and get your hands on one just to get an idea. The 3120 and 088, 084 etc are brutal. 3 Kg heavier, more noise and vibration. I've used them all but currently run a 395 with 24" bar and have a 28 and 36 " for special occasions. Does plenty in beech, oak pine etc.
