Tim Stobart Tree Surgery

That ship has sailed, we agreed a one in one out policy on shoes and chainsaws respectively a few years back. I'm only allowed ten saws, it can be tough some times!

Cheers Pete, I'm actually up in Inverness these days, forming an in house team for the highland council, which may be more or less of a hindrance! It's done some work, they are great little machines, I'm tempted to keep it, but her in doors is on the case!

Just wondering, what would people think a Greenwich cs100, with just over 1000 hours on the clock (factory fitted when new) is worth? Mines sat gathering dust since I took a full time job (which has it's own chipper), and I'm thinking of selling the wee guy!

The highland council are looking for a climber to join an in house team that was set up in November. It's to replace one of the original team members who has decided to head back to the forestry side of the industry. This is a really good opportunity for someone who is looking for a secure post, and it's based in one of the most beautiful areas of Britain (the yard is just north of Inverness). Any questions, PM me. https://www.myjobscotland.gov.uk/councils/highland-council/jobs/community-works-operative-5-other-tore-hgh10023-211103

Just had the same conversation with the accountant, in the wider context of moving from Sole Trader to Ltd company, she seemed to think that I would benefit from the assurances that the CIS scheme offered in terms of liability for my Sub-contractors contributions, but I came on here to see if anyone else used it. As most of my work is either domestic or for large estates, it looks like I'm best steering clear. Thanks for the thread LR90. ps, nice logo.

Based on the Isle of Bute (1.5 hours travel from centre of Glasgow), Tim Stobart Tree Surgery is looking for a competent climber (CS30, 31, 38 & 39 minimum) to work on a full or part-time basis for a number of weeks, to assist with an increase in workload. The post will be working on both domestic and commercial contracts, completing both maintenance on mature specimen trees through to clearances and has potential to become full time for the right operative. The Island is located a 35 minute ferry ride from Wemyss bay which is 33.5 miles from Glasgow. Accommodation can be provided if the operative wishes to stay on the island. The rate is negotiable dependant upon experience

I've got a contract which is to fell a good number of trees, but leave the timber in the woodland to provide habitat, and as it is not economical to recover it. Basically the job is making the area safe, not harvesting timber. The area has been surveyed and tagged, using Latschbacher tags. My dilemma is whether to leave the tags on the lying timber, remove and replace them onto the stumps, or to just remove them as they are now effectively litter amongst a biodegrading mass. Does anyone have any thoughts on this, or am I over thinking it!

One weekend of working at a call centre and this is the staff I'm left with!

I'm running a ms241 (a bit under the power that you asked for) with a 16" bar on it, and it's a dream. Beautifully balanced, and munches through stuff almost as quickly as the 460 with an 18" bar. A good saw for climbing with as well. I'm tempted by the 261 as well, but cannae justify a second saw so close to the other. I'm a stihl boy, always have been, tried huskies, didn't like them. I was never impressed with an echo blower a guy I used to work for had 10 or so years ago, so I've never been there either. Can't really comment on the rest, although I think that the makita/dolmar saws are the same units, just different badges

Any thoughts on the drive gearing? Can it be made to walk quicker? (I know that this will have consequences on how well it cuts and collects).

Hey all, I recently got a spotless honda mower with a roller on it, just a wee 17" job, from a customer who has had it in her shed for a few years untouched. It's running well, but always on the choke. Dies as soon as it's off of it, apart from a couple of times when it runs as it should. What could be causing this (it's now done 10 or so hours)? Also, is there a way of changing the drive or gearing to make it walk faster, as it is painfully slow to walk behind? I'm sure I could just put a bigger drive cog on or something like that. Cheers, Tim

I agree with the 460 over 440 comparisons. I've a 460, and it's the best saw in the shed. If it needed replacing, I'd look for another second hand. They're a brilliant saw. It'll pull a 30" at a push.

Right, I was short the whole kit then. Cheers

I bought a new cs 100 last year, and have to say it's one of the best bits of kit I own. However, reading previous comments, I am guessing it should have a small tool kit, which I never received. What tools should come with it? I have already gone back to the supplier to get a socket attachment for changing the blades.

Ok, Cheers for that, looking at it, it looks ok for snow, although the wheeled unit that keeps catching my eye looks tons better.

Hi all, Looking at the stiff brush attachment for a Stihl Kombi tool. Does anyone have any opinions of these? I've a car park that generally needs a good sweep with a stiff brush, which to do by hand would be a couple of days work. With that I reckon maybe half a day. Is it worth spending a couple of hundred quid on? Another thought? are they any use for clearing snow?

Hi, back in my days as a drainage consultant we used to cover this. No, there's no downside, just the cost of installing it. I'd get it done properly, hook it in to all your toilets, even your washing machine if you put a filter in the system. The best way to do it is with a tank in the ground or at ground level, pumping up to a small head tank in your loft. If during periods of drought, or in the case that the pump has failed, this head tank should be connected to top up from the mains to prevent the system running dry. IMHO it should be mandatory on all new builds, driving the cost or the systems down and creating a stronger industry, but then why would politicians want to do that.

Try some custom made Epidermic ones, I've had a pair that have lasted me for years. They're easy to wash, waterproof, and I've only had to stitch them up a couple of times! I'm not sure if anywhere sells them these days, I got mine through the NHS a while back.

Climb and chog. Simple.

In my experience, if someone is that worried about a tree, then they'll pay for it, even if it is not on their land. It's often getting the land owners permission (or finding who it is) that's the problem.

Have the ear defender specs been upgraded yet on these? I can't find the technical specs on Clark's website.

All relevant, It does vary on age. I pay my employee on an hourly rate. I pay him from start to finish, occasionally I'll knock a break off if he leaves site to go and do something (kids from school, go to the bank, etc), but apart from that, he gets paid the same if he's grafting or sipping tea with Mrs Stetson-Smythe while I do all the hard work up the tree. An important thing to consider is the working relationship you wish to create. If you clock watch, and are on the case, then it won't be as good as if you all dig in and get the job done. If you finish a job quicker than you priced, pay a few hours you'd priced into the job as a bonus. If you've got some fiddly jobs that are not full days, have some shitty jobs (a pile of logs to cut/split) lined up to still pay the full day (if he wants to fill in the hours, always worth asking if you don't need it done), if you run over, he won't mind working late to get the job done. I find banter to be a more effective tool for motivating people than watching the clock. If you can create a good fun atmosphere in a team that pulls it's weight, then you're onto a winner. You'll all enjoy it more, and you'll get more done. As for breaks. Encourage them. Otherwise fatigue can make this game a dangerous place for apprentices.

I read this an age back, I was thinking of switching to this at the start of the new financial year, so, Acg128, how are you finding it? Is it easier than doing a word and excel combo? What is the cost?

Cheers Spud, any idea what year that change come about?

Hi all, I've been contemplating a bigger saw for a few upcoming jobs, I could do with a second for going through big stems anyway. I've currently got an MS460 (18" occasionally, 25" usually, 30" on the odd occasion), and my next saw is a ms241 (16"), I want to fill that gap with a MS 361 or 362 at some point, but am looking at the other end, I've been offered an old MS 066 in good nick for less the £500, what's peoples opinion of it compared with the newer MS660 or the current MS 661? PS, I'm a Stihl boy, and will probably stay that way, I've not found a husky I like yet.