Mik the Miller

I have a Stovax, less than 18 month old i've had to replace the rope in the door and reset the hinges. The stove fills the room with ash and smoke when reloading. Bad build quality, would be OK at half the price ....

Nothing to see here either ...

They are pretty flat as standard, to improve you need to fit a larger intercooler and firkle with the fuel pump and boost of the turbo. Unless you know what you are doing and have boost guages and can measure the EGT, get someone to do it for you. If you fit a VNT turbo (as @dumper) that makes a big difference too. Defenders can tow 3.5T

Nothing a bit of filler and a good buff up won't fix ....

Lots 45 to 53 ...

That's nice is it near Loch Lomond or even in the Trossachs ? The locals really love it when you can't pronounce the place names especially if you have come from up from the shires 🤣

Raining here too but those daft farmers still want to shoot clays ...

You can't really tell by looking at it. Both are Austenitic stainless steels the difference is 316L has less Nickle and Molybdenum in it so is slightly less corrosion resistant. Therefore you want a flue liner which is 904L on the inside and 316L on the outside.

I think so, Auchentoshan (a triple distilled Scottish) comes out @ 81%(ish) too. I like their '3 wood' standard, the other (IMO) are a bit thin. The cask strength (only available at the distillery) is fantastic. Do you mature in different casks or are you purely oak ?

They don't replace the alcohol @daveatdave they add more water .... The new make spirit is mixed with a little water and put in a cask, sealed and left in a cool dark place for 3 years (to be Scottish Whisky) or longer so that the spirit absorbs 'flavour and colour' from the wooden cask. It is approx 68% by vol when it leaves the still and water is added to drop it to around (typically) 63.5% prior to putting it in the barrel. In a warm place the evaporation is greater, in a fluctuating temperature environment the Angels take a larger share too, (because the wood flexes). The aim is to store the barels in a constant, cool enviroment, maximising the transfer of flavours and minimising losses. Water is 3 molecules (H2O) Alcohol is 9 (C2H5OH) - some alcohol leeches out (30%) as does water (70%) so typically the Cask Stength doesn't change much (percentage wise) and can slightly increase (as more water evaporates off than ethanol). To get the Alcholol/Vol down to (say) 40%, water is added prior to bottling. Prior to WWI all whisky was up around 46% but Lloyd George (he knew my father) decreed 40% as a max in 1917. These days 40% is the minimum if you want to call it Scotch/Scottish Whisky. Higher strengths are available. I like 46%, some 43's but 40% tastes awfully watery to me. if I want water in my whisky i'd rather add it myself than pay someone else to do it. Tax is levied on the bottles alcohol content. The current rate is £28.74p per liter So a 70cl bottle @ 50% is £10.01 whereas a 70cl bottle @ 40%/vol is £8.05, over all it's around 70% tax on a bottle of whisky (tax, duty, vat etc).

This is a nice drinking whisky. For £30 a litre you really can't go wrong. It's a shame you can't get the cask strength versions of Tamnavulin but this is all shipped to Taiwan.

Deer Stalking Code of Practice | The British Association for Shooting and Conservation BASC.ORG.UK Deer stalking Code of Practice 1. Introduction This Code of Practice has been produced to provide an introductory guide...

You'd probably give it a good bruise with a .243, thats way to small .... (as others said - those posts weren't there when I penned mine).

All .22 chambered center fire rifles use a .224 bullet. The .223 runs up to a 70gr bullet and fires a 55gr @ 3240fps The .222 runs up to a 60gr bullet and fires a 55gr @ 3020fps The 22-250 trumps them both by firing a 55gr bullet @ 4000fps - when it does it is very loud It's not 'ilegal' to shoot a fox with a 17HMR, but I wouldn't, it would need to be very close and the shot placement perfect. .22-250's carry a lot of energy over a lot of distance. Rabbits turn into red soup @ 150M, foxes have large exit wounds and small deer have a lot of meat damage and internal mushyness. A rifle suitable for vermin is typically not suitable for deer, however, most deer calibers and chamberings are good for vermin. .17HMR - rabbits .22LR(sub) - rabbits, pidgeon and carrion around the farm .22-250 - fox .25-06 - small/medium deer and fox .30-06 - boar, all deer species, fox

You sold it to him ???

38 to 40% is green, wet wood, 80% sounds wrong, a meter failure/fault ? Buy a new meter, they are not expensive and worth every penny. Split and check the inside of the wood with your meter, 25% or less is good to go. Any more than mid twenties and you should probably call the bloke who sold it to you and ask him what he thinks.

No bag (which is a shame, i'd like to see one). The petrol cap does have a wee hole in it, but also no rubber ring ....

interesting ... this one has a heated handle there is a switch next to the cutout and I can see wires running up behind the handles plastic cover. I need to get a new fuel cap as the rubber seal isn't present. Compression feels good and she sparks. I'll clean up the carb and see where we go from there.

Thanks both .. 👍

Not yet 'on the bench' but it will be soon, as soon as I figure out what it is really. I'm a Stihl man really but a friend asked me to have a look at this. So - What is this ? (A Husqvarna chainsaw, isn't quite the answer I was looking for tbh ), the plate seems to say it's model 162 FS (?) And what is that in pic 4 ? (Sorry about the slightly out of focus pics - operator error)

Gravel/stones from the river bed or MOT type 3 with pallets or crinkle tin on top with a slight slope away from the road.

Build it to the left of the roadway. The trees and bushes will offer some shelter from the weather and have bays opening to the road. On the other side, build 2 walls, Build a 2" frame and fix the inner 4" wide boards with a 3" gap and a similar outer wall (out of step so to speak) so that the inner gaps are covered. You can cover the bays with skip nets linky I'd also be tempted to build a 'saltbox' roof rather than a standard A frame. I wish I had the room to build something that size...

How hot does your indian stone slab get ? My old stove got very hot underneath (it was just a cast iron box with a fire in it) but the new one (Stovax modern lined thing) doesn't. My first stove I fitted inside the fireplace which I just tiled after removing the old open fire. The tiles looked fantastic for a year or two but then started to lose the glaze and crack. There was a small concrete hearth under the fire and I simply made up a wooden forma with 17 x 30mm lath screwed it flat to the floor and filled this with concrete and laid the tiles on top. I changed them for a piece of 30mm thick slate, this fits into the old fireplace and stick out into the room by 300mm. I think a 900 x 600 slab is around £60 and it's relatively easy to cut. I used ordinary tile cement to stick it down and mixed in some slate dust for grout.

I dsoes say that you have a tertiary air system but I can't see any reference to where this is controlled. The DEFRA approval is linked to a system which doesn't allow you to completely close the air off (from entering the firebox) this is to ensure that the stove always burns off the gas/smoke. Most stoves I have come across have the ability to 'turn off' this facility (if there) or don't have it.. I can't find it in your instructions ??

Aha, you have a non DEFRA stove whish doesn't employ the secondary burn. On yours. Primary air is from the bottom and secondary is down the glass (airwash). Once warm the primary should be closed and the rate of burn controlled by the airwash (your secondary). If both were shut the stove would suffocate and go out so you always need a little coming in from the top. Therefore your are right ""The net result if I did close it off would be I'd have to leave the secondary more open to get the equivalent flame .. is that right?? "" yes