AndyChalmers

I am on the verge of having some planning passed on 2 x log cabins over looking my lake & woodland. They are going to be for holiday lets. My planned idea of design is something 1.5 story like the 1st pic. However due to building it to building regs they want insulation on the inside defeating the log cabin point, plus not many log cabin builders about Im towing with the idea of a Timber framed cabin like the 2nd pic. What do you guys think http://premierloghomes.co.uk/images/slideshow/1426073379*37*front1.jpg

How were you findings in regards to construction method? This is what I would like

This has gone quite, did anything come of this Dean?

I have just found this post, how are you getting on? Seems like this thread has gone quite. Wish I found this thread earlier. We could have done it for real. I would love to know your findings as I am on the verge of building 2x holiday 1.5 story, 3 bed, log cabins plus more in a few years, after 3 years of bloody planning etc I think I have cracked it just not quite yet. Imminent tho. Im only down the road from you too. How have you got on?

Ash burns green but sizzles and not a massive heat output. Give it a few weeks once split and its loads better.

Hi what sort of rental cost are we talking for the Robocut be with forrestry mulcher? eg for a week or 2?

Nice pics, hmmm Moffett might be a good idea too. Joe You do bore holes , i need 1 drilling at my yard however local prices seem expensive. Is there such a thing as a average price for 1 to be drilled? my quote stated 60m liner but bore to 100m deep.

I love the last few seconds standing on the tree proud as punch haha. Great pic.

That JCB look just the job, I'll look into 1 of them for next year. I never knew there was such a thing. What are they like on dirt tracks so to speak?

what does everyone use for their fork lifts? I have a 5 ton 360 with log grab & a 30hp tractor with forks. My problem is I use tractor to power my processor and need a Fork lift to move my bulk bags on pallets. I ideally need another set of forks and need ideas on what to use, I dont want to use tractor front forks as there not very manuvarable, I carnt use a normal fork truck as it would get stuck as they have no ground clearance plus they weight 2-3 ton (i have tarmac chippings) as a hard base but its too loose for a fork truck. I only need to pick up 1/2 ton and stack 1 mtr high, any suggestions? I have a spare 4T dumper, maybe add a old tracktor 3pt linkage fork lift on the rear of dumper?????

I have 2 processors, many chanisaws etc etc. At home I just take 5ft lengths home use the smallest chainsaw and use a splitting axe. Its fast, keeps me fit and I love to swing the axe for a short period. My splitting axe is heavy, like a sledge hammer with a axe head. My felling axe is alot lighter and splits softwood but doesnt have the weight to split hardwood. Splitting Axe - Which Axe Is The Best? bit of a explanation here pics from web but similar to mine

Good in theory. If you didnt have any water in the funnel, you would have good fuel stuck in the sump every time you refueled. I never use a funnel, as i never have a spare hand to hold 1, plus also if i used a funnel mine are that **** high there too mucky to use.

Na but crane is only about 40kg and stand about 40kg. Plus i can pick crane off by hand when not in use. I dont have a pic but will try get 1 soon. Here is off a website

I use a transit panel van and load 3 bulk bags in back with trackor then handball them out with a huge plastic wheelbarrow. The barrow makes light work of it. I have just installed a Penny Hydraulics 500kg swing lift in the back, its lifts bags in/out with ease now. I can also drag the bulk bags about in the van on my own (ply floor). Trailers are a no go round here, drives are too tight, roads too small and too hard to reverse in the rain/dark lol.

Fraid not steve, I only have spruce or ash in my wood. Loads of spruce stacked up not doing alot at the mo. I can buy tanilised larch boards from local sawmill 6"x3/4" at 20p + vat per foot so weighing up which way to go.

Hi guys, I am looking at cladding a building in Spruce boards, this is my own timber I've felled. Mostly dead. My idea is to get my mate with his Vintage Rack Bench to make it into boards or I'll use my tracked chainsaw mill. I intend to clad using yorkshire boarding style (overlap) which means the boards dont have to be perfect. I was wondering what people use as a timber preserver? Also if the timber wasnt seasoned, would you wait for it to season before boarding or can I just use straight away?

Hi, I have PM you my number. Will be worth a chat.

What do you class as downsides to the Woodlands mill compared to the Lucas? Why are you going to buy a Lucas? Very interested thats all.

Thanks guys. Admin please could you move this post, It should have been in the firewood section, my bad

Hi Guys, I am after some advice. I have a Japa 370 PTO & Derv Japa 305 log processor. Both run Husky bars & .325 chains. I am running std semi chisel oregon chains. I just file to std chainsaw specs by hand on the machines however on my 370 15" bar keeps getting stuck in the log even when sharp (has always been fine), so think my angles are wrong so just purchased a granburg precision grinder from chainsawbars to correct everything which got me thinking. I was just wondering what would be the best suited chain type & spec for a fast cut? eg full chisel, depth settings, different angles etc What are others useing? Thanks

I am thinking about purchasing a woodlands mill, are you still happy with yours etc, would you reccomend buying 1?

I have quite a big inset wood stove, its only 5kw however. Its a Stovax Riva Studio 2. This required a 6" flue. I must admit it looks the nuts and was very expensive but works well however I do get smoke leaking out when i open the door. I carnt light the fire and leave the door open as it leaks. Generally when its warmed up it alot better, also when I need to refuel I have to crack the door, leave it a few seconds then open it (works ok) otherwise Its like a backdraft and a cloud of smoke comes out the door. The fire is very contollable so I sometimes open air vents up just before refuleeing to get rid of any smoke. My brother has a great big envicta (I think) inset stove and thats crap, he has hardly any air control, it just burns flat out so doesnt have any smoke to loose out the door.

Its more for fun, and satisfaction of building things. If it can pay for itself thats a bonus. Plus can always sell it once done (not likely), im a man toy horder lol.

Hi, I am looking into buying a new Bandsawmill. Possibly second hand. I have never milled before & have searched through this forum and gained quite alot of information. As a overview I own a 15 acre woodland in the UK (Sunny North Yorkshire). I am 1/2 way through my 1st thin & have stacks of Ash & Norweigen Spruce. Generally 6" to 12" diameter with some bigger stuff. I have left the bigger trees standing untill if/when needed. been looking out for second hand mill for ages but none seem to come up at the right location or cost. I am planning on building some buildings next year eg workshop, a few small log challets, plus hopefully building some big 2 storey log cabins however these will be contracted out and timber probably purchased pre cut. I am working out if its feasable & worth while to do some of the timber myself. I would like to try make my own 3"x2", 4"x2", 4"x4" timber etc plus fence panels, rustic cladding & rustic furnature. I own a 5ton 360 with grab, tractor, trailers, saws, planers, spindle moulders etc etc however work on my own usually. I am looking at the Woodland Mills, Hudson, Timbery M100 etc etc. What are peoples innitial thoughts? Thanks in advance.