Aicchalmers

Found a short steel ladder 30ft up a tree .. A singular deer leg bound up in the fencing that was grown into the bottom of a large oak..

Anyone need to get rid of any bodies ..

So I always keep my gear in a 'bag for life' type bag in the boot but getting sick of the visor getting bent, the ears popping off etc .. any better suggestions for storage without having a huge crate to keep stuff in?

I'm still thinking down the lines of greenhouse heater .. but combining it with a simple biochar retort along the lines of this .. With a decent size sawdust burner underneath, possibly with the central channel permanently in place with perforated stainless tube, and a removable charcoal barrel.. a chimney to the side and a clamp on lid for the top.. You could set it all up in the evening for frost protection and by the time it gets filled up next day you will have a barrel full of charcoal, which could be lumpwood for barbecues or more sawdust/chip for small size biochar for mixing in with the greenhouse compost!

The Critter Condo (13–15 points) Depending on the location and the local fauna, a woodpile can easily become a haven for chipmunks, mice, snakes, and the occasional skunk. This is the perfect pile for those who like to combine a little adventure with their home heating.

Just on the chance that anyone here can help.. Looking for a replacement touchpad for my panasonic toughbook cf-29 , laptop has been doing me good but not having a working touchpad is bugging me! I've been having a good look around but no joy for any decent price.. need some spare port covers too.. If anyone happens to have one lying around or knows a good place for parts!

Going to have to give it a shot though not sure whether to go with the top or side loading version .. either way the second barrel sounds good to recover some of the heat, probably with a couple of baffles to recover more heat.

Easy enough to delete all that data, stored in EXIF. https://photographylife.com/how-to-delete-exif-data Lots of applications to do it for you or it can be done manually .. also set your device not to record it in the first place.

Are you guys using the barrel style with a former tube to make a central chimney or any other styles in use? Seems pretty perfect if you've got low m/c sawdust.. Have you tried using chip in a burner like that or does it not hold together well enough, maybe a mix?

Had similar sort of issues with my small stihls .. The one 171 would idle fine, cut fine with plenty of power but it had no 'pick up', I'd have to very slowly throttle it up otherwise it'd cut out, other than that it was totally fine .. Other one I've got just does it when first firing it up and once it's hot then no bother at all.

Dinked my knee with an axe last week, literally just like 'oh that felt like it hit me' .. carried on working for a wee bit and was like 'hmm I'd better check that' .. ended up being a gash twice the length of that down to the bone gaping at me with all the few layers of muscle .. didn't bleed at all at the time but when getting it stitched up they nicked an artery and a big jet of blood everywhere

4 day week at 6 1/2 hours daily, nmw. I'm covering my living costs and learning a lot doing something I enjoy so I don't mind really .. of course I top it up where possible!

Had an ms171 for a few years as my main saw for firewood, small felling and a bit of climbing and if it wasnt for idiots using it while I was away it would still be working perfectly. Got myself a new one a few days ago and I hope with some care it should last a lot longer Only had an 076 for a wee while and been using it for firewood out of necessity and certainly compared to a brute like that it's lighter on the power but actually cuts well with very little fuel and you can carry it about all day with no problems and little vibration.

I think I'd actually really like to see more wwoofing style projects for all different types of woodland management in general. I think it works out as working very well for everybody, and I find that now being in a paid job it doesn't make so much of a difference monetarily to me; working around 25 hours a week either way, the one scenario; a) wwoofing getting bed and board, nice food, a strong educational experience and enough to keep me going, a lot of flexibility in working hours and different communities and experiences, meeting lots of different people. b) ~£170/week of which 50 goes on rent, 40 goes on a car, 25 goes on food etc etc, certainly marginally better off but not going to be saving up much .. And certainly from both being a wwoofer and looking after them there isn't a lot of difference for the employer as they have to take a bit more time out to explain new tasks, but they also meet lots of people from different backgrounds. Luckily I've found a job that's outdoors doing a wide range of woodland tasks and I'm still learning a lot and I'd expect to be paid for what I'm doing, but I've also commited long term and have a lot more responsibilities. There's a lot of other stuff around like helpx,workaway etc but my experience with them (too a much lesser degree but still present with wwoofing) is that it's too broad what is expected of people and you get too many people seeing it as a holiday and not being really interested in working. Seriously, if any hedgelayers or people with other useful skills would like to take me on for a week or two (in time taken off from my job) on a wwoofing basis I'd really be interested, and maybe it would be an idea having an arbtalk 'foofing' scheme?

If it's a hanging flue installation, your chimney is a decent size and you have a decent closure plate installed should be as simple as getting up on the roof, taking the pot off, fashioning a funnel so it doesn't go everywhere and pouring vermiculite in, can buy in 100l bags of t'interweb going in at around a bag per M. Cement off the top cowl back on .. But of course it's never as simple as that ... And building control need it passed by for insurance purposes ..

Had a saw given to me a while back that had been run pretty blunt and caked up with tar then sat about for a season, the chain was actually stuck in and wouldnt rotate, scraping out the bar, soaking the chain in paraffin overnight and giving it a scrub , setting the oiler on high and cutting some beech sorted it right out.

Fine really is nothing compared to someone getting their finger caught in a drill ending up with a fine of 14k... Firm prosecuted after worker loses fingertip in unguarded drill | Media centre - HSE

DDT

Looks like a quality course Quite far to go for a one day course but will keep it in mind!

While I'm on the topic .. what do people think of the army wrap around trauma dressings and celox/other blood clotters? Worth the money or ineffective?

Just looking into first aid courses .. And it looks like most people go for efaw+f for forestry, but seeing as it's a high risk industry it's recommended to go for a full first aid at work qualification. My question being, would having a full first aid at work qualification supersede the need for +f as the more extensive course will probably cover major trauma anyway, or would there still be a +f option for the full first aid at work course? I know it depends on your employer etc, but take for example working on FC land?

I guess we'll just have to keep an eye on things for now, I'm still going towards a minor reduction of the particularly damaged wood to tidy things up a bit, but am weary of leaving loads of stubs and making it too obvious .. any useful techniques for creating hollows and splinters short of square bore cuts and explosives?

I've had it before where the bit of rope got into the exhaust port and sheared off jamming the cylinder on .. unfortunately the only way to get it off was to reassemble everything, tighten that nut back on and turn it clockwise with a good breaker bar to get it loose again .. then repeat the whole process...

Cheapest ones I found were cofra woodsmans at about £70. They seem to be holding up well and do the job just fine, although the leather wears pretty quickly on them and are a bit 'clunky'.

So there's a community woodland that I've been helping out with that recently suffered an arson attack on a cabin. It was left vacant for a few weeks as the man who was staying in it was undergoing cancer treatment, sadly he died a week later. Just been up to clear up what was left of the cabin and make it a nice space again. Surrounding it were some mature beech and oak trees that have been severely damaged by the fire, there's three trees that had actually been alight when the fire was spotted, and seem to be entirely dead up one half of the stem. Another had more generalised damage and while it's still got living parts to it has been scorched all over. Just trying to figure out what's the best thing to do with the trees. The woodland is being managed for biodiversity so it would be good to leave some dead standing wood about. There is public access but there's no footpaths near the area currently, but we would like to take away anything particularly dangerous. Is there any point in pruning fire damaged wood where the trees look likely to recover or will it only encourage disease to set in? Options I can see are: 1) Do nothing 2) ~20% reduction of fire damaged wood to take away dangerous wood and a bit of 'veteranisation' to encourage biodiversity 3) Entire removal of fire damaged wood 4) Entire removal of trees with the hope of coppicing Anything else that can be done to encourage the trees to recover? As far as clearing up the forest floor we've just tried to remove as much ash and plastic as possible, would it be worth spreading some chip about to allow the mycological fabric to regenerate or should it just be left to regenerate as with a wildfire?