traktorz

Taking some time choosing a good oil and handling, will save some gray hair in the long run. First choice: Aspen Fully Synthetic Fully Synthetic Alternatives: Mobil 1 Racing 2T, Texaco Motex 2T-SX Ref: ✦ Aspen alkylate petrol is better for people, machines and the environment ✦ Motex 2T-SX | Texaco engine oils and lubricants ✦ Mobil 1 Racing 2T

Is it only the heated handle electrics that's switchable? And the heater for the carburator is controlled only by the thermostat? Isn't that wiring configuration the case with all current saws?

High water content in storage and fuel tanks due to condensation often causes starting and idling problems. Empty the fuel tank and refill with eg. Aspen alkylate fuel mix. No need to cut cookies, the AutoTune will sooner or later optimize for the actual environment conditions. Use the primer, use the choke only when absolutely needed, remember the "high idle" position, avoid the decomp, engage your music or motor ear for diagnostics. A spare spark plug might be a good investment, until familiar with the saws running nature.

I'm using compressed air frequently to clean our 550XPG. Once we've experienced a plugged oil pump, caused by blowing debris into the feeder part. Removing and cleaning the entire pump parts fixed the problem. Hint: Removing the clutch is much easier, if the saw is warmed up first.

Through away the old fuel, and replace with fresh, preferable Aspen alkylat. This simple fix shouldn't be underestimated.

Fuel problems are actually quite common, especially during and after the winter season. Water through snow and condensation due to temp variations causing the saws to run with difficulties. Replace with fresh fuel, ideally with Aspen.

Idle problems can also be because of ignition uncertainty. Check spark plug gap or better replace for test. Have seen both Stihl MS362 and Husqvarna 550XPG having idle problems with spark plug gap at 0.60 mm. Should be 0.50 mm!

Regarding carbon on the pot, mainly due to accidentally pouring bar chain oil into the fuel tank. Looks like stalactites burned into cylinder top. Of course the spark plug needs to be replaced.

Spark plug condition ? Winter plug open ? Condition of bar & chain (what spec) ? Clogged cylinder cooling fins ? Clogged spark arrestor screen ? A music ear should be able to record under which conditions the saw has been run, and whether the chain is sharp enough to keep the rpm speed high enough to achieve a good torque, thereby letting the saw work optimal. The saw could have developed an air leak over time, maybe even only appearing when the saw is heated up due to thermal expansion of parts. An air leak test on crankcase and other critical component may exclude or reveal ...

I've also once lost the circlip and washer on our MS362C-Q. It needs a frequent cleaning for safety operations. I've also sometimes struggles to put the circlip back, it sometimes flies away, so having a couple of spares is a wise investment. Please be sure the oil pump lever is in place and also the bearing cage, prior to align the washer and circlip. It shouldn't be a problem and after some unmount/mount one shouldn't find it too problematic. I find it more difficult to loosen the clutch, even with a rope through the spark plug hole.

We have the MS362C-Q with a classically manual adjusted carburator. I haven't yet seen it flooded, but have experienced spark plug sensitivity. The MS362 might have a weak ignition module, at least our saw has idle problems if the spark plug gap is more than nominal 0.5 mm. A new spark plug or frequent adjust of the gap is therefore needed for our saw.

Basically a twostroke engine needs only a new spark plug and Aspen alkylat to run. Pump away any wapour lock, and don't use the choke initially, when engine is warm. Hopefully the saws training sequence will optimize the run conditions in due time. Seldom it's the M-Tronic or the AutoTune to blame.

Having used several classical and Strato equipped saws in the 50cc region, for an all rounder saw, I would pick the 550XPG heated handles option. More agile, lighter, and cheaper than the Stihl counterpart. Electronically controlled carburetors has been working excellent for the saws I've used. However for milling the manually adjustable carburator of the MS362Q-C was of our priority.

The only advantage with the inboard clutch is it's easier for the chainsaw fiddler to swap the rim sprocket. We see only disadvantages with the outboard rim sprocket of our Stihl MS362C-Q, such as a bulkier design for handheld milling. More severe is the stress on the clutch due to worse cooling of the clutch. The worst with the inboard clutch of our MS362C-Q, is that it's unreliable and will freeze in winter times. It's not enough to frequently remove all the crap that over time gets accumulated beneath the inboard clutch, which also may reduce the lifetime of the bearing and sealing to the crankcase. I can imagine that problems with heat distribution, also can affect the clutch bearing lifetime as well. While we bought the MS362C-Q for safety reasons, it's functionality works very well only if frequently cleaned, but it's a pain to remove the clutch (first you need a piston stopper) - and you need to apply an uncomfortable stong throw, to even loosen it. For us, in retrospective, we rather bought the heated handles model MS362C-E VW, but at the time of the purchase, we prioritized the double handles Quick-Stop security option. We've had our MS362C-Q for three years now, it's been running fine, except the clutch cleaning related problems, but it's also a bit sensitive to the condition of the spark plug, as it can stop idling. Currently the idle is a bit uneven (sometimes high - sometimes low), however not spark plug related this time, I guess. I'll have to check the fuel lines, as a starter. We run our saws on Aspen alkylat, by the way.

Vapor lock in the carburetor, wet spark plug, ... will cause starting problems. Using the choke on a warm engine, missing the first ignite, should be observed. Avoid using the decompression valve if possible. I've had starting problems with every two-stroke engine at some point in time. Usually it's a learning process, and there are always a rational reason to the starting problems, and Aspen alkylat fuel reduces overall problems.

Gum turpentine I think it's called in English. More on "Balsamterpentin" here: http://apps.kemi.se/flodessok/floden/kemamne/terpentin.htm

The only solvent that can clean from spruce resin is "Balsam-terpentin" in Swedish. You may translate from eg. http://www.terpentin.nu/ It's "French terpentine" distilled through water vapour and originally used by shipbuilders. It's a less harmful solvent than petroleum-based mineral terpentine, which doesn't dissolve the mentioned resin as good.

Did this conversion from 0.043" to 0.050" for our also 30cc saw, the MS192C-E. Liked the more robust Oregon 91VXL so much better than the original PMMC3 tiny one. However, you need your MS192 adjusted well to handle the heavier chain, and not go over 12" max bar length. Ultimately, I valued the better 0.050" PS chain over the extreme lightweight of the MS192, so I sold the MS192 and went for a 35cc saw instead.

I wouldn't recommend 18" on a 50 cc home owner saw. Get at least a Husqvarna 545 or better the 60 cc 555 if 18" is a given.

- Don't use the decomp. I rather see it plugged on a 50cc small engine. The better the comp, the better it should start, I assume. - How does the spark plug look? Change the plug and observe hopefully an improvement. - It's recommended to use Alkylat fuel, eg. Aspen alkylat. (You haven't accidentally put saw chain oil into the fuel tank, it's more common than people admits.) - Use the air purge, fuel pump. - Use high idle, if the saw doesn't start right away. - The tougher you run the saw, the better it gets, is the common saying. - Isn't AutoTune meant to take care of various driving conditions; from -25C Nordic Winter frost to summer heat weather conditions?

The Stihl MS 362 and Dolmar PS-6100 both are capable to use the 3/8" bars at 18" and slightly abore. Both are good candidates running the more robust 3/8" chains, if also dealing with not only fresh wood. The Husqvarna/Jonsered also offers strong 60cc saws, where the pro saws are 560XPG/562XPG and CS2260W. Also this swedish originated group provides a series of semi-pro saws, CS2252/CS2258 and 545, 555 & 556, in both 50cc and 60cc classes. For the 50cc saws, the .325" chain is however the recommended. Likewise, the german manufacturers also have attractive 50cc saws, like the Dolmar PS-5105, and even the PS-4605.

With the smaller bar mount of the 560XP, it therefore results in a more nimble and agile saw, even with a 18" bar and matching H25 (.325") chain. However the 562XP model has the larger bar mount, and therefore a change to 3/8" chain makes more sense. The MS362 has inherently the larger bar mount, making it an unwieldy tool with the 18" bar like on ours, therefore preferably not the first tool for running around with in the forest. Our MS 362C-Q has been reliable over the years so far, with exception of the C-Q right-hand brake, that freezes in winter and gets stuck in wet cleaning areas. So we regret buying the saw with that option, rather we should have gone for the heated handles option. The MS362 is not as popular around here as the Husqvarna 560XP, and we bought our 60cc Stihl before the 560XP came out on the market here. If we were going to buy a 60cc saw today, we would pick one with heated handles, and probably the one with the lowest price tag on it.

Having had a pair of Jonsered 535, albeit not the same model as this 520, I guess they share some similarities. I remember the tank ventilation is a bit complex with filter and hoses. This filter might be stuck. When 535 was introduced, one new feature was the air gap isolation of the tank, that should avoid fuel vapour problems. Maybe less fuel vapour problems with Aspen alkylat fuel? So, try use Aspen and re- or triple-check the tank ventilation!

3628 000 0056 .325" RMC 1.5mm 13" 3628 000 0064 .325" RMC 1.5mm 15" 3638 000 0056 .325" RSC 1.5mm 13" 3638 000 0064 .325" RSC 1.5mm 15" However, I personally prefer Oregon 21BPX064, Husqvarna H25-064, and Oregon 21LPX-064, and in this order. Works best with my files and gauge tools.

Thanks for enlightening me on various saw chain types with respect to driving power needs. Given most forest cleaning work is of fresh pine wood, chisel chain might be what I'm looking at for my needs.