traktorz

Great thanks for your elaborative answers, much appreciated! This model seems to be a good candidate for a lightweight saw, with reasonable power and torque for specific needs.

I guess the saw comes with a 30 cm bar length with a 44DL PM3 chain. Q1: Does the saw have enough torque to pull the same chain type (Picco Micro 3) with 50DL on a 35 cm bar, without bogging down? How much does the longer chain affect the acceleration, when used for my most needed application of delimbing ? Q2: Does the saw have enough torque to pull the PS/PS3 chain type (Picco Super/Picco Super 3): on a 12" or even a 14" bar? (Again my needs is for delimbing and first time thinning). Q3: Running the current MS201 side by side with the upcoming MS201C-M, do you hear any difference in the idle sound? Difference in the steady idle rpm thanks to the M-Tronic? Any difference due to any altered muffler design? Any lag in the throttle response due to the electronics awakening up? Q4: Does the user become aware of that the saw has an electronically managed carburetor at all? At what shifting scenarios does one need to recalibrate the saw, if ever needed? P.S. As a backgrounder I can tell that I'm currently am using the MS192C-E. Because of the several times the diminutive 1.1mm PMMC3/PMM3 chain jumped of it's Rollomatic E Mini 12" bar and destroyed the chains drive links, I've changed to 1.3 mm 91VXL-044 chain and corresponding bar. I really like the more robust 1.3 mm chain, and can accept the heavier bar and chain, but the small 30 cc engine in our MS192 doesn't provide enough torque, for the the heavier mass to spin acceptably, nor the larger cutters of the 1.3 mm chain.

Seldom find user reviews or owners comments about this rather new saw, introduced a year ago. I have seen the 543XP(G) available in various shops, and was initially very interested in acquiring this being the lightest saw with heated handles on the market. Have also been looking at it's nearest competitor, the Stihl MS241, but not interested in the Picco chain at all. So reconfigure it for .325" bar and chain will add to the cost and weight approaching a more general 50cc saw, so my interest in a 43cc halted here. A 550XP(G) suddenly seems a much better choice for our needs. Still a lighter saw is of a big interest to us, but it seems I have to look into the 35cc to 40cc class of saws, for a more practical difference in weight. I have to accept the 3/8" LP chains, like 91VXL. I also have to give up on heated handles for this smaller class of saws.

Electronic circuits needs power supply, both generated and stored. On a chainsaw, the needed power is magneto generated, rectified, stabilized and I suppose, stored in some kind of ackumulator. Does this affect the starting behavior of a M-Tronic/AutoTune versus a traditionally equipped carburetor saw? Do these need some extra pull at start?

I remember from the non-strato chainsaws era, like with our Jonsered CS2152 generation, (Husqvarna 353 equivalent), the heated versions also had a resistor element attached to the carburator. I guessed the same were the case for the current XPG models, but looking into the IPL, it seems only the handles are heated npwadays. Seems reasonable, and with the arrival of electronically adjusted carburators, one would expect a wider operational range without disturbances. Opening up the winter plug also, most likely cover up for any possible air filter icing problems.

How much power in Watt units does the heated carb & handles consume? Does one feel the power loss, when comparing a XP vs a XPG model? Does the 200 gram extra weight the heated model carries on eg. the flywheel part affect the responsiveness of the XPG model? I guess the power penalty of a heated carb & handles model is the reason, why we don't find the "G" models on saws with less than 43 cc ? Knowing from snowmobiles and ATVs, heated handles and throttle thumb is an absolute mandatory item in winter times. On chainsaws the gain is reduced health issues, paired with the comfort of needing less gloves changes during a winter day's work.

Some more info with NGK numberings demystified: http://www.sweller.co.uk/mz/workshop/wrk_plugs.html

The recommended spark plugs by Husqvarna in the majority of their saws over the years have been Champion RCJ7Y and NGK BPMR7A. Visual inspection of the spark plug can reveal if a warmer or cooler spark plug could suit better the current run conditions.

We have a MS362C-Q, the older model without any potentially troublesome carburator electronics. It' been a reliable starter, but it does smoke more than our Jonsereds during the first seconds after start. Thereafter it turns OK. If your MS362C-M smokes extensive, it should cause a carbonized spark plug too. However the root cause sounds to be the carburetor, so sending it back to repair sounds necessary.

I had tank ventilation problems on our Jonsered CS2152 (HVA 353 equivalent), but the same components are also on the HVA 350 (our CS 2150 equivalent). Husqvarna replaced the vyon plug, which was the initial implementation of tank vent.

I use a rubber hammer and a heavy duty (19mm is it?) socket. Not a hard but a distinct knock, which will release the clutch. Take your time to clean all interiors, including the worm gear for the oil pump. I hate the inboard cluch design of the Stihl chainsaws, as with our MS 362, which collects substantial dirt over time in it's big internal cavity. It affects the oil pump as well, but mainly the functionality of the Quick-Stop brake. The needle bearing on our MS362 still is OK, so are the gaskets/sealings to the engine. But I've seen a pair of the troubled MS261, which performed terribly, due to this inboard clutch design. Woobly performance and possibly air leaks due to the ill performing engine. Runs well, when new, but put into hard work over the years, it will show it's ugly head.

Loves the power of a 60cc saw, but it's too heavy to lug around, which a 50cc does better. Our MS362C-Q has been working well, so have our Jonsered 50cc saws as well. The HVA 560XP wasn't available when we bought our MS362. Maybe the HVA 560 is a bit lighter and has better handling, closer to the 50cc class.

Item #6 on this picture

If your saw needs to be nimble & swift, pick a shorter bar and a smaller cylinder volume. If the needs actually requires an 18" bar, I would like to set for a 60cc saw. However a 60cc saw with an 18" bar is becoming heavy and bulky, at least that's the price we had to pay with our Stihl MS 362 C-Q. The HVA 555/560XP weren't available at that time of purchase for us. Ref: ♦ Compare Husqvarna proffesional chainsaws

The page from the illustrated parts list, likely will give an idea on this job to do.

Bearings worn out on the clutch side? or both? Having had a pair of old Jonsered 535 made in late eighties, that didn't show this wear, however those crankcases were made out of Magnesium. The 350/CS2150 crankcase is made of plastic, hence doesn't need to be split, which would ease the repair procedure positively. Just curious what fuel you've been using? We were running the old Jonsered 535 on 3% oil mix, although at the time 2.5% was mentioned in the instruction book. Currently I'm mixing 2.5% (gives me a sloppy margin down to 2% recommended in the instruction books) and the oil is is a semi-synthetic (Texaco Motex 2T-X (API TC, JASO FC/FD, ISO-L-EGD, TISI)), with Aspen alkylat. That YouTube clip was very illustrative, I have to check on our saws next time, but I hope not having this play in the bearings. Anyway, looks like you're convinced new bearings needs to be replaced, and of course seals too, once the engine is taken apart. There's alot of things to remove on the saw, before coming down to the problematic area. This is mentioned in the service manual for the 345/350 family, of which I've seen a swedish copy. I would strip the saw to minimum, and have the repair shop do the seals and bearings replace only. I would keep the cylinder in place to shield the interior during the transport though. But very important before going further, is to check the status of the cylinder and piston. If the saw has already run lean, has that affected the moving internal parts as well? Also when opening the cylinder, remove charcoal accumulation on cylinder top and exhaust port, and replace the piston ring as well. Have you done a compression test already? Our CS2150 has higher compression than our CS2152, which surprises me. So between these two saws, the CS2150 is the first choice, it's a bit lighter as well. The 350 equivalent is therefore in my mind worth servicing.

And you're sure the seals are the cause? Not just a common tank ventilation problem? We've got the Jonsered equivalent CS2150 still going strong, so I'm curious to follow your problem and resolution. Personally, my approach would be to try taking the crankcase apart and to fix it myself as far as possible. It's a very good saw and does a good job for us.

It's important to return the screw in it's dedicated position, otherwise exhaust gases will burn a hole in the top cover.

What do I get by removing the mesh? -Better torque -Higher rev -Less carbon build up? -Better cooling? - ...