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Logrod

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Everything posted by Logrod

  1. Thanks Jules
  2. Other than the tree that they were growing on is there any other way of differentiating between the two? If it's on oak always quercina, any other host always confragosa or not as simple as that? (Or does it not matter for practical purposes?)
  3. Nice picture of the labyrinth pores, I might be able to remember this one if I come across it in the future!
  4. Logrod

    Mitox saws

    Rob, Do you do bars for Mitox saws (I don't see them on the bar finder), just wondering what the choices would be if I decided to get myself one?
  5. I've been looking for a saw to try milling (secondhand) and followed your link to find the Mitox 6224 which at £279 RRP looks cheaper than most secondhand battered Stihl saws on Ebay and without the risk. What's there reputation? Can you get bars for them? What's your experience with them?
  6. mechanisms are about £2 up depending on hands (and probably reliability!)
  7. The bracing looked fairly loose to me (an amateur), is that deliberate to allow movement?
  8. works for me (using firefox)
  9. I'm with se7enthdevil here, it seems a waste to burn it
  10. I've an Axminster/Jet JWBS 120S bandsaw which I must have had about 10 years. It works fine on curved cuts with a narrow blade, but I struggle with straight cuts with a wider blade in anything that isn't just straight grain (hard to get enough tension/ poor blade guides imho). If I had my time again I'd buy an old machine second hand (It's really the only machine in my garage I'd replace if I had a chance), it's not bad, just not good either!
  11. If it needs to go in my thicknesser and it's more than 25cm wide then I just rip it to 25cm, plane and thickness and then biscuit joint. Lose a lot less wood that way as well.
  12. Thanks treedave very helpful link, one less thing I'm ignorant about, now to start on the billions of others
  13. Sorry to be ignorant but can someone explain what's "Hoppus Foot", I know cubic ft and board ft but.....
  14. Most paper contains a higher percentage of china clay than wood fiber these days to both save cost and make a smoother, easier to print surface.
  15. Latest FIM investment bulletin: http://darkroom.fimltd.co.uk/original/4b312849d8ae9452916b6ac4dcdc10bc:560d17f582424d149b1519bd637aaaa5/investment-bulletin-december-2013.pdf
  16. I'd be interested in knowing how you prepared the wood samples (I can get my head around soft tissue)
  17. I've got "The Woodland Way" same author, which was good.
  18. what about wall art ? (thin slabs )
  19. I've turned bowls with it before (although not as nice as Slackbladders ) The trunk itself looks great as it is , shame to cut or mill, but certainly don't waste it. My first reaction when you said ideas welcome was to say give it away to a good home but seriously I'm sure you can get something from it.
  20. As a rock climber I'd retire my rope if I spilt petrol or oil on it, but I'm aware arb ropes aren't necessarily the same.
  21. Thanks Ian, I'll get cracking:)
  22. I have some elm board offcuts hanging around and my girlfriend is looking for some cutting/serving boards. I have though a nagging feeling in the back of my mind that this is a bad idea (the choice of timber rather than actually making something for her ) - is elm not good for food use?
  23. For a general answer to some of your questions, you might try Practical Forestry for the Agent and Surveyor by Cyril Hart. Companies like UPM Tilhill publish indices of timber value, but actual value is very site specific. If you're buying somewhere with felling permissions already approved (or even woodland that is ready to fell) bear in mind that that will have been factored into the sales price. My gut feel from some of your questions (time to fell, invoice terms etc) is that it's probably the wrong investment for you, in general lowish margins, high uncertainty (diseases, when can you actually get onto the land to fell etc) mean that there are probably easier ways to diversify your portfolio - have you considered guano?
  24. As far as I can tell from it's data sheet Propellar is "just" 60 or 70% Isopropanol (Isopropyl alcohol) so a less costly alternative would be to buy Isopropanol directly which can be bought in small quantities and more cheaply than Propellar.
  25. If we're making mountains out of molehills wouldn't it be a "Tauper" ? (tho Ty may be the only one who understands this)

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