sandspider
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Everything posted by sandspider
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Firewood coppice / pollard - short, thick stems
sandspider replied to sandspider's topic in Firewood forum
Makes sense, thanks OSM. Will try a few different approaches... -
Firewood coppice / pollard - short, thick stems
sandspider replied to sandspider's topic in Firewood forum
Might give it a try and see how it goes. -
Firewood coppice / pollard - short, thick stems
sandspider replied to sandspider's topic in Firewood forum
Hmm. Good point. Maybe not worth the extra trimming of side shoots. -
Morning all. Had a thought this morning - if I trim off the growing tips from coppice / Pollard poles, will the poles grow thicker rather than longer? I'm aiming to coppice / pollard mixed species (sweet chestnut, willow, ash, robinia, eucalyptus etc.) for firewood, fence posts etc, so aiming to get poles of 10cm diameter or so. If I let the poles grow to say 2m long (with the stools reasonably well spaced) then trim off the growing tips, will the poles thicken without getting too much longer? (Ive got some electricity lines on my land so can't let things grow too high in some areas...) Cheers.
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Many thanks for typing all that out Gk, it does make sense and it certainly does help! Cheers.
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Ahh, thanks BBB. That looks a good place to start.
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Right, eventually got the correct carb kit (walbro wt-160B carb, not Zama) and replaced the various diaphragms. Metering diaphragm was shot, dissolving and floppy. Strimmer now runs! However, it's not set up quite right. It would cough but not start on choke, but I managed to start it without choke by opening the throttle a bit. Once it warmed up it would idle fairly well without throttle, but kept stalling. It also wouldn't rev fully, maybe 75% (a guess by sound, I don't have a tach) Once stalled it would restart with a bit of throttle. So I'm guessing the high and low screws needs adjusting. Tried to find default settings on the internet (2 turns out each?) buy found conflicting info. Does anyone know the correct default settings and a reliable tuning procedure? I assuming running it a bit rich isn't the end of the world, but running it too.lean could be... Many thanks.
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Right, eventually got the correct carb kit (walbro wt-160B carb, not Zama) and replaced the various diaphragms. Metering diaphragm was shot, dissolving and floppy. Strimmer now runs! However, it's not set up quite right. It would cough but not start on choke, but I managed to start it without choke by opening the throttle a bit. Once it warmed up it would idle fairly well without throttle, but kept stalling. It also wouldn't rev fully, maybe 75% (a guess by sound, I don't have a tach) Once stalled it would restart with a bit of throttle. So I'm guessing the high and low screws needs adjusting. Tried to find default settings on the internet (2 turns out each?) buy found conflicting info. Does anyone know the correct default settings and a reliable tuning procedure? I assuming running it a bit rich isn't the end of the world, but running it too.lean could be... Many thanks.
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You can get the ebook for free on project gutenberg...
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If someone posts a wide image, the whole screen width increases to fit it in, meaning that all the buttons etc. (and half the text of replies) vanish off the side of my (big, high res) monitor. Not the end of the world, but a bit of a pain?
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Ochsenkopf vs Gransfors vs Fiskars Splitting Axe/Maul?
sandspider replied to TimberCutterDartmoor's topic in General chat
I use an X27, and it's a nice axe. However, it was £50 odd when I bought it, and I'm not convinced it's 5x better than my old £10 toolstation maul which used weight rather than my force behind the axe to do the splitting. Having said that, I don't tend to split huge amounts of wood in a single session - the X27 is lighter so maybe better for larger volumes. -
Looks good. Love to see follow up pics in a year or two.
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Oh, and the cheap carb linked about won't fit my strimmer, and they don't do one for an fs36 - so.I can't get one whether they're any good or not!
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Hi all Had another go at it today. It'll run (a bit rough) on choke with half throttle, but if I take the choke off it dies. I took the fuel filter off altogether, and the fuel line appears to be crack free. Plug still damp, and if I take.it out and turn it over there's a fine spray of fuel from the hole. Also, if I.empty the fuel tank and pull it.over to clear.out the last drops of fuel, it starts.more easily and runs quicker and smoother. So.I assume the carb is the problem? Didn't check the tank breather, but there was no hiss when I took the cap off, so don't think it's that. I'd slightly rather fit a new carb than mess with a carb kit. But the only replacement carb I can find in the UK is 90 odd quid! At that price I'd just buy a florabest strimmer from lidl! That may be the best solution in the end anyway. Can anyone point me to an fs36 carb at a good price? Or the best place to buy a decent carb kit?.(I've seen a few on eBay, but don't know if they'd be any good) Thank.you.
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Take a screen grab? That'll show what's on the phone screen with time and date...
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+1, me too. It's not quiet (it screams a bit at full revs, plus the chain travelling is noisy) but it's quieter than my 2 stroke. My neighbours haven't complained, though they are a fairly tolerant bunch.
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They're not sprouting yet, but I think the buds are swelling a bit.
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Good growth for 3 years. Have you fertilised or mulched them or anything, or just left them to it? What varieties of willow and eucalyptus are they?
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Thanks for the suggestions, all. If the posts aren't already cut, would cutting the tops to an angle not make things worse? Or would the water run off benefit outweigh "breaking the seal" of the pressure treatment? Steve, the posts are 8" diameter. But I'm really after something I've already got that I can put on tomorrow if I get 10 spare minutes. I do have some roofix roof-waterproofer, if that will stick to creosoted wood...
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Posts have been pressure treated (I think) with creosote. Not entirely sure if the ends were cut or not! But I can see cracks in the end grain, which I imagine water must be sitting in. Won't this eventually work it's way down inside and rot the posts? Anything I can do to make them last longer would be good. I suppose a coating of bitumen and roofing felt would do it! And I already have both...
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Only 5 or 6. Thanks, but I'm after something cheap, easily available and waterproof rather than pretty. That would probably do it! But how to fix to the posts without letting water in?
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Hi all Had a fence put up recently, and want it to last. I'd like to top the gate posts and straining posts with something that will last, and stop water from getting into the end grain. (There's a crack opened in the top of one post already) Posts are 8" round creosoted, and I can't find any large round post caps! What's the best thing to cap them with? Lead? Wood but with the grain horizontal rather than vertical? Plastic? Ideally the cheaper and more easily available the better! Also, what's the best way to attach them? If lead I'd just fold it round I suppose, but wood / plastic would need a nail or two, then the nail hole would let water through and into the post... Don't think gripfix or similar would stick to creosoted wood, plus it's damp at the moment anyway. Any suggestions? Cheers.
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This is what I use: Proraso Shaving Cream Jar (150ml) :: Shaving Cream :: The Shaving Shack Feels nice, smells OK, doesn't cost much. Italian I think.
