woodyguy
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Everything posted by woodyguy
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changed to the stein a few months back and absolutely love it. can wear it all day comfortably.
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Pictures not great but at that height and with bark like that it can only be Aspen or white poplar. I'd go for Aspen though.
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I think this is being looked at the wrong way. If you are clear felling a wood, with good access and lots of machinery, then £60 per tonne may be correct. If you are going to all the hassle of felling a single oak and extracting it then the standard sum is almost irrelevant. It's what it is worth to that carver. So if it was my tree then I'd be looking at the best part of £200 to make it worth the bother (even then I wouldn't touch it as the time factored in makes it less economic).
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I tried to down load it but they said I had to drive 30 miles and be shown how to safely load it onto my phone..
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I own an oak wood and when you see the young saplings battling against American Mildew you can certainly understand Rackham's view that this stopped them establishing within an oak wood. I was shocked when I visited the 200 yr cycle managed oak woods in central France. The regrowth was incredible and 100's (literally) of times thicker than in our oak woods. I suspect as usual that Rackham knows what he's talking about. Certainly in my wood, Oak is a pioneer and won't grow under other oaks (occasional exceptions only).
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Most fungi books are very good if you're looking for which ones to eat. They're not so good for identifying fruiting bodies on trees. I've got loads of books but the fungi pages on this site are brilliant and better than any book.
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I really don't like burning unsplit round wood. It's slow to get going and needs a really hot fire to burn properly. Guess if you burn split or round then its fine. I just guess mixing it doesn't work well for me.
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To my mind, it's not a log until you can split it. So yes 4inch would be absolute minimum.
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Thanks for posting. Another era!
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I've been cutting down 30 year birch which regenerates nicely. Not all though and bigger ones sometimes died.
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Thanks that's really useful and exactly what I wanted to learn!
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I've bought three chainsaws off ebay in recent months. If it looks too cheap then it is. Buy off a seller who regularly sells and has almost 100% good feedback. The one offs aren't worth the risk. If the pictures aren't good (often post a video as well) then don't buy. Email them and ask a few questions. If you have any doubts walk. So bargains yes, but give aways no.
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Not sure if I know what you're suggesting. I presume you mean that growing above the tree shelter and getting nibbled back each year will lead to better growth than just growing away. In reality the plant needs photosynthetic material ie leaves, to grow roots and increase stem thickness. I'd be surprised if your plants will grow better than if you'd used the 1.2m shelters. Why not do it properly like your title, experimental and do half in 1.2m and half in .6m and see which make the best plants?
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The curved blades stay in the cut better and allow better efficiency of effort. I'd take my Zubat personally over any of the straight blades.
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This is really very good. I'm not an arborist but have been replanting a wood for the past year and researching the 100+ species I've planted. This would have been very valuable as I've had to read up myself and do the work you're doing. Few random thoughts. Include pictures of younger immature trees (good to show clients). Perhaps include a bit of info on use of trees eg Sorbus T. was used to flavour beer before hops were used hence the common use of The Chequers as a pub name. Make sure the info is correct. Sorbus t. grows well in shade under oaks trees. Would definitely use it once complete. woodyguy is online now Report Post
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I have a massive fig tree in my garden, wall trained. I cut it back to its framework (about 200 stems all about 5-8ft cut off each year). Late winter after the worst weather but they're hard to kill. They grow like crazy with massive leaves but less fruiting if cut hard back.
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I'm establishing coppice for hazel by planting and as you say its not that easy to find out. I'm letting them grow for a year then cutting back to establish breaking from the base.
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Dwarf trees need to have a STAKE for their entire life as they are not self supporting.
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This is really very good. I'm not an arborist but have been replanting a wood for the past year and researching the 100+ species I've planted. This would have been very valuable as I've had to read up myself and do the work you're doing. Few random thoughts. Include pictures of younger immature trees (good to show clients). Perhaps include a bit of info on use of trees eg Sorbus T. was used to flavour beer before hops were used hence the common use of The Chequers as a pub name. Make sure the info is correct. Sorbus t. grows well in shade under oaks trees. Would definitely use it once complete.
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Depends what root stock they're grafted onto. If its fully dwarfing then its often surprising how little root there is growing. If the top growth is flourishing then I'd stick with them. If they are stunted rather than dwarfed then I'd have them out.
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No not if they had given due attention to inspecting the tree and any defects weren't apparant. But if this tree was obviously rotten and they should have known that through regular inspection and removed the hazard, then yes they are liable.
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I would have thought the most relevant thing was the fate of surrounding trees. If the whole street of trees went down before the wind then clearly that was exceptional. If your tree was the only one and is rotten, then you've proved your point surely?
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Thanks for sharing. Had me choke into my coffee. They were like the chuckle brothers. I thought it was a hornbeam.
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Certainly similar to Lucombe but nothing like pseudo-Turneri which are much more glossy and evergreen (I grow both but not big enough to comment on bark).
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As you say, not impossible. The growth habit of a big Cerris is very distinctive being very very upright (not fastigate) but a strong leader and making a lot of height compared to sessile oak.
