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i'm just outside bristol if you're ever searching again, some used ropes are a pita to splice though!

i'm just outside bristol if you're ever searching again, some used ropes are a pita to splice though!

RE the recomendation of a pulley saver, prob' best to get used to a cambium saver first then get an ART rope guide they are Soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo much better than a pulley saver for a few reasons 1 the pulleys are of a higher quality so the bushings dont wear out as quick, 2 they work with 13mm rope the pulley saver retrevial tail clip wont let you get 13mm in, 3 they retreive 100,000 times better as when you retreive them the cam will disengage giving slack, the pulleysaver does not do this and either A remains stuck or B you rip it out slightly damaging the strands on the loop's, IMO a pulleysaver is a false economy & if you climb on 13mm a complete waste of money

RE the recomendation of a pulley saver, prob' best to get used to a cambium saver first then get an ART rope guide they are Soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo much better than a pulley saver for a few reasons 1 the pulleys are of a higher quality so the bushings dont wear out as quick, 2 they work with 13mm rope the pulley saver retrevial tail clip wont let you get 13mm in, 3 they retreive 100,000 times better as when you retreive them the cam will disengage giving slack, the pulleysaver does not do this and either A remains stuck or B you rip it out slightly damaging the strands on the loop's, IMO a pulleysaver is a false economy & if you climb on 13mm a complete waste of money

the root of the problem is that our industry doesnt charge enough, it doesnt know how to, the only way out IMO is for the industry to start taking it's self seriously and present it's self as a highly skilled profession. That means complying with every bit of red tape under the sun & taking pride in doing so, think about it, read some of the threads on here "loler inspection is a load of bul**** i know whats safe" "risk assesment is a pointless box ticking exercise!" "NPTC's dont need sh** i've been doing this job since i were a nipper" think how that looks to a member of the public coming on here for a read to do some backgroud reading on the industry to help them choose a contractor. all they'll take away is that tree surgery is a 'craft' not a skill or profession shame on all those that write such things on here where the public can read it

the dynaline paul sugested would be ideal! but it is very expensive, u'd also want to spend more money having a protec polyester cover braided over it (more expense) i do own such a rope its sooo light! yet very, very strong best option is Marlow braid IMO Bull Rope much more hard wearing than double braids and more static (what you want for pulling) but do not use this rope for lowering off a port-a-wrap etc cos it'll kink like 50 shades! its also a 10th of the cost of my 18mm d12 protec rope lol!

damm limited aplication in arb but a good bit of kit, allot of guys with meat filled heads & ham fists didnt like the id due to its anti-panic-decent function, never had a problem with the ID, love it as a trunk belay! that way you know your groundie wont break ur legs as he lowers you! rig is smaller & lighter though

anyone who thinks knots are stronger than splices has a very limited understanding of rope constrution! pmsl that said strngth isn't the bee all & end all of WAH PPE

got a petzl ultra for night climbing, mountaineering & running, Damm its amazing!!! i cant help but use it for everything now, cost a small fortune (especially with the spare battery!!) but you probably get it back in never having to buy batteries again

treevolution do the best course, u'd have to travel to north wales, what ever you do don't go on any other one, i've seen guys come out of the Lyon one & they don't know sweet FA about inspecting arb equipment also dont forget that they'll teach you & test you on the basics after that you have to find out about equipment your-self, it can turn out to be a bit of a hidden cost so heads up

the lockjack & spiderjack is only tested ddrt and is ce certified tested to EN 358 work positioning lanyards with the exception of the CE lanyard & CE climb none of the hitches currently used by arb's and in competitions are tested to bsen's and/or CE certified. The CE climb has been tested in a rather interesting, some would say conveluted, way it is not tested 358 as the lockjack & spider is but under EN 567 and EN 12841 Some say....353 might be a good standard to test arb gear to as we often rely on a sole system, unlike IRATA guys using equipment compliant with 567 & 12841, who have a backup device typically compliant with 353 in the US things are very different and we must remember that the purpose of CE marking is to regulate free trade not to regulate safetey. BSEN's that we find on our lockjacks, ropes, prussics etc were NOT designed to test arb gear Take a look at your 'ridge gear' prussic or your OPe2e (ocean polyester eye to eye) for that matter, what BSEN has it been tested to? .................BSEN 795 what the flip does that have to do with friction cord??... Very little! 795 Anchor devices? cambium savers are indeed anchor devices & as such perhaps this standard is applicable but my prussic loop? seriously? i want my prussic to be strong enough, relativly abrazion resistant & relativly heat resistant & perhaps i want at least 70% of the strength to be in the sheath so that i can see if the important bit is worn/melted, or maybe not providing the core is of a more/as heat resistant material does anyone else think that perhaps a CE mark doesnt make something safe? so how can we tel if something is safe? just because the wrench isn't ce certified does that make it not safe? does that mean a prussic or blakes is not safe? what testing do the compitition orginisers insist on?....... none? should All systems that are not tested in their corect configurations be regarded as prototypes?

well you snooze you loose! the infamous Pointer came on it too :-P

sounds like an interesting day, iwent on treeworker's course some time ago, even as someone that had allready been splicing a while I learnt soooooo much! the tricks of the trade experianced riggers can teach us are invaluable nod' called them "good house-keeping tip's" and man do they make a difference, best £140 i've ever spent!

tension on the eye bro, anchor the knot as per usual, use a revolver to link the fiddle block to the eye providing im not doing a "super captive" one or splicing to hardware direct (obv) to anchor the fiddle block to the opposite anchor i clip a steel krab to a double fisherman tripple loop tied from 11mm bungee i will get a photo if i can when using a winch you anchor the eye & attach opposite end to winch (opposite way round to fiddle block, i have used winches several times when learning from factory riggers, but they actually prefered my way lol, the bungee is awsome one of the rigger actually asked if they could re-mount the winch on a spring loaded plate so that an amount of tension remains even if you do a big cover smooth, the constant tension is key to preventing that nasty buldge on DB splices (not telling any1 how to suck eggs just hope the tips help any newbee splicers out) what john said is very true in relation to most if not all standard arb lines, it nis as Dak said typically what most would term "marine" ropes

its for certain splices on certian ropes with very tight braids & maybe very long burys, allot of profesional riggers use them, sometimes on splicing instruction videos you see a cut to: and here it is!! sneeky swines you try enmulating the marlow gecko/aeris splice method without one you'll soon see!

i use a 5:1 ISC rescue hauler atytached to a super strong bungee loop where its anchored so as i smooth tthe cover to send it home it keeps quite a bit of presure on

a dynamic rope is one designed to absorb 'lead falls' and typically complies with BSEN 892 when changing over some people hav a habit of climbing aove their anchor or leaving allot of slack in their lanyard as they have secure footing etc. a resulting fall could cause serious injury, a rope compliant with BSEN 892 mitigates the risk by absorbing some of the impact. anyone that thinks a thinner rope (under tension or not) takes as long to cut through than a thicker one has not cut much rope (i cut thousands from 3mm to 38mm, DB, Kernmantle, TB, HB, polyester nylon, zylon, vectran, dyneema, technora, kevlar, mixes & blends off all the above the subject has in fact been researched and standards designed to 'rate' the severability on ropes such as the UIAA sharp edge resistance test, when testing ropes under this standard it soon becomes VERY apparent that the ticker the rope of the same makeup the harder it is to cut but hey what'd i know??? i dont mean to bang on i just see it as a safety matter, please note the GTGCP clearly states: minimum friction cord diam' 8mm, minimum lifeline diamiter 10mm ........

really???? i know a silky is capable of either, i cut over 1000 peices of rope & cord each year of varling diamiters with knifes & scissors both serated & smooth, trust me the thicker the cord the harder it is to cut through

hi Arran, have you considered using a dynamic rope for your lanyard if you're intent on going so thin? boa is prety strong but not so strong if shock loaded & dont forget: when you go thin on you're lanyard you may well need to go thinner on your hitch/ tie a different hitch. Comercially if not keen on super thin main lines or lanyards it doesnt matter how strong they are or what their made of they will cut through far too easy

it wasnt designed to be used as such some say.... they may consider looking into it ;-)

Some say.........it's been in development for a very long time Some say.........it was at the AA show but behind closed doors.... ;-) Some say.........why the hell has in not been designed to be used SRT? some say it was developed with the help of Victoria Beckam!!! :-0

Must have own PPE, CS38 & CS30 and cover the redhill area Please PM me with your qual' list and phone number if interested, Pay dependant on experiance & ability but prety flexible:thumbup:

Jamie's right man, its not great for tree rigging, it'll melt in no time, softbank did it once with plasma (very similar rope) and it melted on 1st day

lol what does RADS actually stand for? Ben i think your thinking of a variation on the rads, with an ascender & footloop above the rig, when using this method you dont put the MA in you stand then pull the tail vertically up to capture progress, the rope is only routed through a pulley to create an MA when you are going to haul on your hands. Paul: love the nigella refrance, can i put it on my new website? and the gro-gri also slips at much lower loads, especially so, i remember a trunk belay set on one at a rec event, it was locked off so perfectly safe until a boy was lowered and then it was not locked back off, the poor lad that went on next couldnt seem to get off the ground, he insisted the ID that he was on was slipping, in fact the ID was not slipping but comically he'd ascend a little way then slide back down to the floor as the gri-gri on the trunk belay wasnt engaging i struggled not to wet my self, it was like something out of a charlie chaplin moove (perhaps you had to be there ;-) )

you nailed it the change is to new B+E drivers that want a trailer over 3500kg, there is no change to BE so rob you did it just in time, the new rules are MORE restrictive, swines!