se7enthdevil

tulip that colour is often known as "rainbow poplar" for obvious reasons and some should really be kept for turning purposes as the mineral content of the soil is quite specific to get those colours and when sold in the states it can go for quite a high price especially if there is any figure in it which there often is. rough cut a few planks with the chainsaw and sell them...

is this stuff solid plastic???

are you limited to hornbeam or do you have access to any of the following? hawthorn, box, apple, eucalyptus, robinia, strawberry tree, hop-hornbeam, wild pear or wheatly elm. another possibility is to use some ekki which i have that is known as red ironwood in africa where it grows and is much harder than anything we have in this country

yes i know kevin. Mr bolger i believe. i do love the south African accent... i met him through ebay years ago and got some nice apple amongst other things, never been able to see his site though as i can't drive but if anyone is passing taplow on their way i'll happily tag along...

using the information given in the pipestock site it says the cheaper class E stuff (£13) is only of 3mm wall thickness but the class 7inch is 5.2mm. this is obviously where the extra cost is coming from. but it's still a bit steep in my mind... the woodworker in the website states that he used the thinner pipe and it didn't hold up and as i intend to hold 100ft3 of wood (beech) on them i don't want it collapsing under the weight. thanks for all the suggestions fellas, keep em coming. delabodge, whats blue water pipe???

i did find one place that sold it but it was £30+ per 6m length!!! surely someone will have something cheaper than that.

not with the weight that will be on them i just tried the link and it was fine. try it again. Plastic Stickers Don't Stain - Woodworker Bryan - American Woodworker

not really, the idea is that i split it in two like the guy on the website did so really need 1 1/4"

if its going to be looked at then i would simply sand to a fine grit and give it a coat of poly-x from osmo as it won't leave a shiny finish giving you that rustic look your after. osmo really brings out the grain in my opinion and will make it look great. where did you get such a big bit of olive? pictures???

zooming in on that butt it didn't look hollow to me. was it soft and mushy or did they just fell a good solid tree???

for the price its not a bad idea but i was hoping for something rigid...

i'm no speedy Gonzales but what a palava... that's going to take week to fell a single tree.

hi all i was trawling the net and came across this site http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/woodworkerbryan/archive/2013/06/21/plastic-stickers-don-t-stain.aspx i thought this was a great idea as they wont rot and for a small outfit like myself it would be perfect. anyone know where i can get 1 1/4" pvc pipe with a 5mm wall thickness?

i'd appreciate it if i could have that price for my beech Jonathon... this is an interesting point and have to agree that local timber should be cheaper than imported stock. I would happily buy my beech and sycamore for skittle production from this country if it was cheaper that overseas stock. I've tried to get as much as i can from our shores but it's been difficult because no one is interested in cutting over 4" wood anymore as they seem more interested in turnover than letting it air dry for however long it takes. i now have to buy my wood wet and factor in times for it to season in to my production process. i should be getting 100-150ft3 of beech from one big old tree that big j is cutting for me but i wont use it until at least 2016 when it should be dry enough for skittles. i was forced to get some kiln dried 4" squares from a company that got it from Germany or Italy because including VAT and delivery it only came to £21ft3, i would happily give that to someone who milled a dried it over here if it was a quid less...

i do like a chancer...

you need to persist with tulip Clive. also i wouldn't bother turning it unless its bone dry and use a skew if spindle turning. if it was a bowl you just sand fairly smooth and use a block of tulip to try and burnish but that don't always work...

i'm interested in the laburnum at that size. pm me please.

beau, any wood is good to burn if its free... if you feel like it cut a few large lumps out of it as it shouldn't really split whilst drying and then at least something could be turned from it?

it's a thought you know... i was fairly confident of saying white poplar but after you reminded me of the extremities that tulip wood can have it's definitely a possibility... looking at some of the pictures here i wont rule it out... poplar

beau, it's the same stuff tulip tree is liriodendron tulipfera, or as you know it yellow poplar. if its not a good stem then maybe fire wood is best for it but it should still make some characterful boards. as firewood its quite good but must be dry... if your tree surgeon says tulip and polar are not the same then he's right. the thing is you are thinking of the timber as we call tulip tree "poplar", but he is thinking of the genus or species which are in entirely different families with the tulip being part of the magnoliaceae and populus being in the salicaceae. has this helped?

robinia is ring porous and yellow. definitely not that...

just a few more to aid anyone. you'll notice that just under the bark it reacted heavily on contact to metal.

there is no particular aroma coming from the wood at all... none of it is wetter than the rest it's just a bit of freshly felled wood.

walnut is porous isn't it??

the first two pics do include the bark clive. do you need a better photo? i've only one bit left but i can clean it up so you can see a quarter of a log end...