se7enthdevil
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Everything posted by se7enthdevil
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clive's right, cedar is much more pleasant to work with both because it is a greater repellent of the moths and it's workability as a wood is great... very stable too, euc moves quite a bit so not recommended for carcasing really.
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does any one have any decent sized bits of catalpa they don't want? i've just turned my first bit and have fallen in love with it...
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ok here's a few more pics of a bit i but up last night in to 1"x18"x8-9" boards. last one is the center board planed, it's gorgeous...
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just a few more pics of what i got john. with any luck it'll be really well coloured. there are two nests of three
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yeah i want to see pics of that. where is this clive, it would be nice to know who is around with a stenner if i need to ask him if i can use it.
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as they are drying out they are getting greener. i'll take a few more snaps soon.
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john, here are the blanks i managed to get from your tulip tree.
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that's a beauty steve.
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just did a quick search on the net as to what they used in medieval times and wooden mugs seem to be finished with linseed oil but as woodworks say i think a weeks immersion would be a safe bet before use. also i would use you're classic food friendly woods like birch, maple and beech.
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i saw some of that le tonkinois stuff being used once and it was perfectly water proof. be interested to see how it holds up to other fluids. dont forget that cold drinks can be acidic and dissolve the finish in tho the drink
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although poly x is a floor oil it's perfectly safe for food ware too. for tryout purposes i would turn a few hollow cylinders and finish them with, linseed, danish, tung, poly-x and that le tonkinois stuff and fill them with tea for a few hours to see what the effects are.
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sorry to see that alec. not good. they said on the weather yesterday that it's the wettest winter for 250 years.
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i just bought one off john p but not fired it up yet. intend to use it for milling mostly. be interesting to see what it makes
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sadly not but i want to get it fired up in the next week or so. my birthday on sunday so it'd be nice to fire it up then.
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you can put 60" on one of these Stihl 084 AV / MS880 Chainsaw with 36" Bar/Chain | eBay
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a bit of black hearted lime (i think), a bit of cedar from the neighbors tree, and the excellent contrast of the brown oak too
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a nice bit of field maple but only enough for two bowls.
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just a few more blanks that have been cored in some unusual timbers. Chinese liquidambar...
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sorry i've been so long in getting photos up but here they are.
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if you ever return it would be interesting if you can bring back some bermuda timbers. would love to turn some of those.
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the white deposits in the pores are silica and don't take kindly to any blade. i've just been turning some for a project and it's incredibly difficult to cut with a slicing action. it prefers to be scraped to remove material.
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post a pic of it and i'll tell you if its either.
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you've never cut ekki then...
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cheers clive, it took a while. Pan, i core each bowl and leave them in my workshop on a shelf to get surface dry (if soaking) and then i'm putting them in to an adjacent shed for a couple of weeks. over the last few months i've been transferring them in to the conservatory which is still not much drier than the outside (but need to watch out for a very sunny day) and gives the wood an easy going time drying. i take a tiny one of each species that i'm currently drying in to the house to dry it next to the fire and this gives me a target weight to aim for. once the others reach the same percentage loss in weight i know they are ready. this can take up to six months and depends on the size of your bowls and also the species, the hornbeam has dried in about 2 months but the cherry laurel has taken nearly 8.
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i wouldn't if they're are being seasoned, if they are dry it won't matter too much.
