Hill-Billy
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Everything posted by Hill-Billy
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Yeh, that's the great thing about these threads, pooling knowledge so that we can all benefit. I'll sure be making a mental note of that last one.
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Fungi, it seems, is a big issue on arbtalk. Who can recommend a good fungi book? My book shelf has a gap for such a book!
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I bet it's been done countless times before but....this could become the ten best gloves thread! What are your favourite':001_smile:s guys??
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Great thread guys. So what's the best fungi book...? My fungi knowledge is seriously in need of improving.
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log burner not producing much heat?
Hill-Billy replied to roglog's topic in Log burning stoves and fireplaces
Getting the right combination/ratio of log to kindling/twigs is the secret art of getting a good hot log burner IMO. It's taken me ten years and countless cold nights to have learnt this and I still forget sometimes and try using just large logs or wet kindling. The radiators do get good and hot when you get it right! Of course a good, ash-free air flow under the wood is essential and a good flue draft as well. -
Hi Paul. My number is 07840761566.
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Anybody in the Southwest (UK) got a spare copy of 'The Body Language of Trees'? I'll pay top dollar for it (Not £800!) or a loan copy. It looks like a must read. PM me if you can do. Christmas is great with the family but...!
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Luv the Pics especially the Acer!
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Free conifer logs - 15 cu metres at least - for collection near Launceston, Cornwall. Tel: 07840761566.
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Hi Normandy. I agree mate. I did a whole row of French Poplars in the summer, Lombardy, silver and....What's the other kind? Anyways, the branches aren't up to much and, like you say, without spikes...whoa!
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What does a bore-hole look like? How is it connected to the mains water system? I assume that the bore hole would have to come up near the :001_smile:surface before going horizontally towards the house!
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Hi guys, does anyone have any experience of trees interfering with bore-holes? I got a call today from a lady who wants me to advise her on her options for dealing with a 50ft pine - possibly a Cyprus - growing, healthily, 6ft from her bore-hole. Is it possible to do an underground survey of the root-plate to determine exactly where the roots are growing?
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To add a crucial piece of info to my boundary thread. I just spoke to the customer who told me that her bore-hole, from which all her water comes, and her septic tank are both 6-feet form a 50 pine tree. Its roots are the main issue not the lack of light to her veg garden. And the opposed neighbour has agreed to split the cost of the tree work. So it seems to be just a question of how much tree work? and when to do it? I'll still need to tread with caution. There sure is a lot to consider so I shall stand aside once I have said my bit.
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Thanks for the input, guys. All useful advice/good potential courses of action should the disputing neighbours come to an agreeable solution.... I just thought of another alternative. What about persuading the wildlife loving ("Don't want those trees touched!") neighbour that a well managed (low-lying)hedge is not only a boon but is actually going to increase the wildlife aspect. Everyone can win. It's what I did in my own garden when a neighbour wanted our hedge cut/coppiced low so that their daughter could sunbathe all day! Anyhow the oak in question is a ten-foot nonentity and the rest of the trees are mature creating a straggly mess that is inhibiting one of the feature trees in the garden from growing fully. Still, when all is said and done I can only advise and if they:001_smile: do come to an agreement about getting some work done get the spec in writing/signed by both parties.
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Who's still up and has dealt with neighbour boundary issues? I got a call today from a lady who would like 4 mature trees - an oak, an ash, a conifer and a sycamore removed entirely from a boundary hedge. The trees are keeping her garden in shade all year round and she now wants to grow vegetables in it. however, her neighbour doesn't want the trees touched at all as he enjoys watching the birds and other wildlife use them. Neither party are able to establish who owns the trees even after contacting the Land Registry. While she is entitled to remove all overhanging branches, I don't see how she can legally ask anyone, such as me, to interfere with any other part of the tree. Unless both parties can come to a compromise agreement then nothing more can happen.
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All good advice/insight guys. Just for interest, my instructor said: "IMO, don't work from an unsecured ladder/platform only use it for tree access. I think I'll wait until demand increases for hedge work - more inquiries - before I shell out for even more kit:001_smile:....
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This has probably been done countless times before but how many of you other arborists do hedgework as well. I only ask because I got a call yesterday from a guy whose Laurel hedge had grown too tall for his telescopic pole trimmer and he wanted me to tackle this approx 15ft high 30 ft long hedge. "They are trees after all" he said. "Yes" I said, "but I don't have the equipment to tackle formal hedging, sorry." What are the options for tackling a high hedge. Cherry-picker? work platform? Longer pole pruner? Climb inside the hedge which sounds insane to me!? I don't like to pass up work but....Do people expect to be charge the same rate as a tree surgeon for what is essentially a gardening job?
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In hindsight, I think a sling would have been the answer, without which I wouldn't even consider using a chainsaw - what's worse, the loss of 6ft of lanyard rope or an avoidable accident? But I'll definitely try the sling next time - they're so versatile.
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The branch was about 15 feet long. It's difficult to say exactly how much it weighed but it had me pinned down for a few seconds.
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The tree was a sycamore. Thelimb diameter was approx 4-6 inches. Like I said, it was virtually impossible to get a good work position and too slippery for a chainsaw - no fear!
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I gave myself a bit of a scare today - removing a fairly large tree limb about my own body-weight. Good work positioning was virtually impossible, due to the slippery nature of the wet tree and the lack of branches to stand on, so it was difficult placing the kerf cuts to limit fibre tearing. I was using my Silky the whole time, as it was too risky to use a top-handled saw, and unnecessary I felt. When I made the back cut the branch fibres still tore into my lanyard trapping me until my groundy could swing the branch and I could then lift it over a small knob of wood and free myself. I was very close to cutting my Lanyard by that point. Has anyone else had a similar experience? It isn't meant to happen when you make the kerf cuts surely. Maybe they just weren't deep enough.
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Bhutan Pine looks good. I saw a couple of pine cones - should have posted that photo as well. I initially thought maybe a Western Yellow - or a Jefferey's Pine? Cheers guys. The owner will be pleased and I'll gain some kudos points.
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Here's the pic I missed.
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Identifying pine trees is not my strong point. Can any of you knowledgeable guys out there make a a good ID of this tree I was working on today in somebody's garden? It smelt fantastic! Not like your average Leylandii
