Hoggin
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Everything posted by Hoggin
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If you don't include time into the equation, the cheapest way is to make them yourself. However, having made a couple of "Road closed ahead" signs myself, I wouldn't do it again. It takes ages if you want a professional finish to the correct BS. You can get them new and used off eBay. You could just add "Tree cutting" underneath. Example... Cone Signs Road Work Men At Work Road Narrows Keep Right | eBay
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The public highway usually extends to the hedge or wall on each side of the road. It could be three feet or thirty. The verge is just part of the road that doesn't happen to have tarmac on. If you place obstructions on a highway, you are committing an offence and may be liable for damages if the obstructions cause injury or damage to persons or vehicles wishing to use the verge. You would need to find out exactly where the boundary lies in this particular instance. Three quid to the Land Registry may help.
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If you can get it to start.
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I was seriously considering buying a petrol Makita saw but the parts availability (or lack of) put me off. In contrast, I have an electric Makita and every part seems to be readily available from normal Makita power tool service centres.
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My 550 is being returned whence it came. Although I was close to throwing it into the river last time I used it, I want it back.
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One way is to take the plug out and have a look at it... At least, that's the way it works for a four stroke.
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Rich means not enough air and too much petrol. Lean means too much air and not enough petrol Nothing to do with the oil, just the ratio of petrol to air. . . . . .
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It's definitely a love hate relationship with this saw. When it's going it's superb but when it stops I never know if it will start again. Ran a couple of tanks of fuel through it on Saturday cutting oak, then it stopped while idling. I expected a quick pull of the cord would have it running again. Nothing. After spending 15-20 minutes trying to restart the thing using every trick in the book, I assumed I must have flooded it so I removed the plug. It was bone dry. It's like there is no fuel getting to the cylinder. In the end I had to pack up and go home, a quarter of the way through the job. The b£$%^&d thing still won't start today.
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I've bought quite a bit of stuff from overseas, including the USA, and it doesn't matter whether it is new or used, if it is worth over £15 including carriage charges, you stand a good chance of getting hit for duty etc. As has been said, the carrier will often sting you for an additional charge for collecting the duties too. There are various dodges such as getting all the paperwork and packaging removed but I've never known them to work. The customs people then pick a value out the air, usually on the high side. You can dispute it but it costs you to appeal. If you refuse to pay it, they won't let you have your goods. If you bring it back in your baggage, the limits are higher and you stand a better chance of not having to pay anything at all.
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Ta. I'll get one.
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Oddly enough, it was in Newbury, Berks. Even odder, IIRC it was owned by someone with the same name as you. I nearly bought an old Land Rover from them years ago, in boxes. Newbury Tree Surgeons. G A Butler & Sons Limited
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Thanks for the replies. It looks like I was flooding it. To rule out any problems with the saw itself, I took it into a dealer. Ian at Spa Engineering in Chesterfield got it running and recommended that the warm start procedure is tried first. He also mentioned that they get easier as they are run in.
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OK, time to swallow my pride, hand in my man card, and ask for help. I've got a brand spanking new, if slightly scratched up, 550XP. At the moment it's about as much use as an orange chocolate teapot because it just will not run. Has anybody got any pearls of wisdom that they would like to share? What could I be doing wrong? I've followed the starting instructions in the manual to the letter. Fresh pump fuel mixed 50:1 with Husqvarna LS oil. It has obviously been run in the past because the plug shows some signs of use. I replaced it anyway and there is a weak spark. At one point yesterday, it did fire up and run for a couple of minutes but died as soon as I squeezed the throttle (gently) and has refused to restart. I've been trying, on and off, for two days now and am about at the stage where I could punch kittens.
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LOP 1T Newbury, Berks.
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An update on this. The local plod have actually caught the theiving scroat using DNA he left in my car. He has admitted taking my stuff. I may even get the Husky back. The other stuff was dumped behind a hedge on the night of the offence but, predictably, it isn't there any more. I'll be glad to get the chainsaw back, although I'm not holding my breath. It will be going to court though, and I intend to be there.
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An update on this. The local plod have actually caught the theiving scroat using DNA he left in my car. He has admitted taking my stuff. I may even get the Husky back. The other stuff was dumped behind a hedge on the night of the offence but, predictably, it isn't there any more. I'll be glad to get the chainsaw back, although I'm not holding my breath. It will be going to court though, and I intend to be there.
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He's relisted it now. 99p start or £250 BIN
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Can't help with Adelaide but if you have any specific questions about moving to Oz, I may be able to help. Edit: Take a home brew kit. The price of beer will make you cry.
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Not very. It depends on the size but, in my experience, you would struggle to form a loop less than 12" diameter by hand. I would use a strop around the tree but that isn't an option if you don't want to climb it. How about a ladder?
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Run! As others have said, it doesn't exist. My aunt fell for the same scam with a "too good to be true" caravan last year. It cost her £1700.
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3 cubic inches engine capacity. Roughly 50cc.
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I've got an older one. With its narrow kerf chain it cuts well when its running. It is tiring to use though and the clutch gives up after half an hours use. Apparently, they aren't regarded too highly in the criminal world either. When my other stuff was nicked they left the Aldi saw behind.
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I forgot to say that it is really very well made and it also has a proper front handle so it is as easy to use with the bar horizontal as it is vertical. I checked the spares situation before I bought it and all parts seem to be available from normal Makita powertool service centres. I priced up a longer bar and it was quite reasonable, however, I found that the 13" bar is more than adequate for my needs.
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I've just had a look at mine and it has a 13" bar. That may make a difference in how it performs.
