Woodworks
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Everything posted by Woodworks
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" It will be a bittersweet day for you when you use your last board!" Yep but at the rate I am using it and the fact I have almost given up making furniture means it could be many a year until I run out
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That I can do Here a couple of picture of a Tantalus during construction, the pictures of the finished piece don,t show the depth of colour of the wood. And looking at the pictures now still does not really do the wood justice.
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Sorry Jay I don't mill, there only boards I bought I never saw the trees.
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As a furniture maker my favorite is walnut. I still have a few boards from 15+ years ago that allegedly came from the Cadburys plantations which were planted to provide nuts for there chocolate. I reserve them for special jobs as I suspect I will never get my hand on such beautiful wood again.
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Ha Ha not exactly a work of art but do mean this one . I am now a convert to the style of Sharkbaits saw horse and have made a very similar one but this is my second favorite way ahead of the old fashioned X sort.
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Like the honest review I like these from toolstation Toolstation > Workwear > Gloves > High Performance Tradesman Gloves They are not indestructible but they don,t claim to be and they do give you great dexterity for a £10 and much harder wearing than the rubber palmed sort of work gloves.
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Who has lowest gas bill of the year ours £250 nice
Woodworks replied to mendiplogs's topic in General chat
Like many we have no gas so use none but this probably does not count Cooking and hot water are electric and all space heating is being provided by good old trust logs at the moment but we do have a GSHP if needed. -
What do you all think of a hycrack log splitter
Woodworks replied to mendiplogs's topic in General chat
Hi Jon We have the smaller tractor mounted hycrack. It is very capable of splitting large rings but how are you going to get a 4' ring onto it? I have done 2'-3' rings but I cut anything bigger than this in half with a chainsaw to make them liftable. As Steve said it does leave the logs a bit scruffy if they are hard to split also from other threads I think you get best results if the wood is dried before splitting. -
"anyone else skiing this year" I wish, but a bit of mud sledding in the field might be on the cards
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We have a Hycrack and I love it's ability to split anything but it also has problems. I split most of my wood when wet and often find that you get stringy bits holding the separated pieces of wood together and end up either pulling them apart or using a hatchet to finally separate them this seems worst with beech and it also leaves the logs looking a bit scruffy. The potential danger of this machine also scares me when a log gets slammed round on the table. I know most things are dangerous and good practice can mitigate most of the risks but this machine has given me more scares than any other and I have spoken to many people who have hurt themselves on one. I have now got myself a Fiskers axe and I now do 90% of my splitting by hand, it,s fast, quiet, uses no fuel other than a good cheese sandwich and is cheap to buy and keep sharp. I have never used the hydraulic type splitters so cannot compare the two.
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What forecast do you get that from Jon? We keep being promised colder dry weather but it never seems to materialize and it just keeps raining. Even today when we are in a High pressure it bl@@dy rained all day, it's really getting me down.
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Hi swinny A while back I unloaded an IBC of wet beech and weighed them on some old but I believe accurate sheep scales. It weighed only 425kg and I would sell an IBCs worth as 1.1 m3 but no more. I don't think you should have any problems drying 3" round logs this way as our round beech is pretty much dry in six months in the crates.
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Thanks again for the advice. Re planting I like the idea of planting some elm, not one I would have thought of but I have seen it grow well locally. As regard to pleaching I will try and lay over other pleachers to protect from weather and leave a bit more spry on. If I can I will take some pictures of today's efforts. The other thing is what sort of axe do use for pleaching?
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Yes and that link is the best description I have seen of stone walling and how to do it thanks
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Thanks hedgesparrow I do use crooks but not obvious in the picture. When you say I leave a lot of branches do you mean that the pleachers overlap too much? Would I be better to only leave one stem per section? My reason for doing it they way you can see is I am trying to leave the hedge stock proof without additional fencing but strait wood is as rare as hens teeth on this hedge. Thanks for the advise I want to get better at this. Here is another picture to show some crooks at least that's what I think the local term for them is.
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Ha ha funny you should say this as that,s what I have been doing this afternoon here is a pic of the first bit I did a little while back on the first hedge picture I posted. Please don't laugh as I am no expert at this but I am having ago and would happily receive some constructive criticism.
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Try Plymouth pallet and drum Plymouth Pallet and Drum Ltd Are you after the crate, tanks or both parts as I would sell you the plastic inner tank for £5 each as I only want the cages.
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Here a couple of pictures of our hedges to help. We did plant several hundred whips 2 years ago but the dry springs have meant most have died. The problem for any new tree on the hedges is they are short of water until their root system gets down to field level and then they have a virtually unlimited amounts of water in a year like this one.
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We need to replant some of our Devon banks. We had planned to put mainly ash trees in. We are fairly exposed 700 feet up on the west of Dartmoor so very wet and the soil is acid. We do want a bit of a mix but leaning towards species for firewood for the future. Most of our existing hedges/banks have ash, beech, sycamore and some hazel and thorns but I do not mind trying something new as the winters appear to have warmed here over the last 30+ years and something else might now flourish. Thanks in advance
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A dehumidifier should work well but the container needs to be well sealed or your going to be trying to dry out Surrey. After all a container with dehumidifiers is the basis for most kilns. Insulation should also work but if going down this route it needs to be good fit or the warm damp air gets behind the insulation condenses on the cold steel and then dribbles back out were it can.
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Having read this and other threads it obvious that the Clark cut and climb jacket is darn good. Most of you climb sadly I don't have those skills and most of my work is felling and laying hedges would this jacket be good for this sort of use and if yes what size do you recommend? I am 5' 11" with long arms and fairly slim.
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Here are the pics. Top one is polythene sheet under box profile roofing sheets. This does get some condensation where it touches the sheets and has broken down with the UV over the clear panels. Lower pic is 50mm PU insulation sheet fixed with wooden pads and filled with spray foam and has eliminated condensation in this shed. Sorry not very good pictures as very dark but hopefully you can see enough.
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If it would help I can take some pictures of the 2 sheds roofs.
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A thin membrane will touch the lower edges of your roofing sheets and some condensation will still form but should be much improved. On the advise of a friend I put a sheet of standard poly sheet under one of our tin roofs and it does help. In my workshop I have also added a rigid PU insulation sheets between the rafters and then sealed all gaps with tape or expanding foam and this has completely eliminated condensation on the roof but not cheap. On your previous question I would take Guss109 up on his offer as as the proper foams guns are a pleasure to use. Hope this helps
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Not all species of wood will read the same for a given moisture content. I have a fairly old but expensive moisture meter that came with a set of tables to correct from the given reading. The variation can be as much as 5% different from the given reading ie it reads as 20% and is actualy 25% or vice versa. Sadley I have lost this set of tables so can't help with specific speicies other than oak and ash do not need any correction.
