Rich2484
-
Posts
7,192 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Calendar
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by Rich2484
-
Depends if the alarm is also with the horn or not. But if it continues with sound could knacker the ignition. All depends on the alarm make and fitting.
-
The alarm could be some sort of battery drain. They normally work if the light goes on and the battery drops below a charge. Some have a sensory dial that can be turned down so its not like living with a scitsofrenic patient.
-
Hahaha not mine mate. And I don't think the owner will sell it. You would have more luck getting blood from a stone. It's going no where. Sorry bud. Be armed it is a lump and can't be moved by one person. It is heavy. But the one axle make it easier. I've always thought it to be a forestry machine due to its size. We sometimes struggle to get the tipper and the chipper on driveways. But for that its an excellent machine
-
Stihl.... And the bad things are few people. It's a bit like marmite either love it or hate it. I've heard mixed reviews and to be honest most people complaining about poor performance have not had the saw retuned after first use.
-
Don't know. Yours sounded heavier. The cm220 is 9 inch feed. And believe me it will take that aswell. Biggest we've had is connie through it. The stress control kicked in but by god did it suck it through. A nice Isuzu engine in aswell. Runs perfectly and has never missed a beat. Exept when chipping dead connie the rad got blocked. The engine cut off and once we blew out the rads with the leaf blower and it cooled down we carried on. I don't think I could ever use anything again. It's greenmech all the way for me. Plus they are easy to work on from changing blades to greasing them up. But I would say go for the round blades as you can get more hours form them. And they really do take some punishment.
-
Look into the single axle 220. 1.3t and a lot easier to manoeuvre due to one not two axles.
-
Cm220. 9 inch feed. H's taken everything d a tree surgeons has thrown at it by me. Had a few blades changed in the nearly three years he has had it. Bit on the heavy side at 1.3t but worth it IMO.
-
Hahaha no chance. Your is running beautifully. Had it out today and got two tanks of fuel into it. Did have a heart attack moment when I left it running and walked off, came back and it had stopped........ Someone had turned it off rather than it dying out.. :lol: Will clean it tommorow as I would hate for it to come back dirty Then itS ready for pickup next week. Need to pm me with any details I need to write on the parcel.
-
If its the first time I strip something I make a list. As they come off I write it down of what and where. When putting back together I work back through the list. After the first time it's all mentally thought out. So now what is it about the same saws coming in at once.... Over Xmas it was a run on ms200t saws. Today there are three 026 sitting on the bench. One is div_h. The other needs a new worm drive fitted. The other is an older 026 and problem is not yet identifyed. But won't start. Been told he thinks it electrical. Will soon find out I guess.
-
That's a very closely guarded secret. :lol: It's a mere case of using google and sifting through hours and hours of threads and posts and info from various sites and YouTube. Have a big a4 pad and pen at the ready.... Good luck.
-
Or you could just go all out and do the exhaust properly, also porting it helps a lot. I've also seen recently that there are some carb mods aslwell. Every saw can always be made to run like it shouldn't.
-
That transfer would be a likely cause of fuel oil mix wrong. I've cleaned up a similar looking pot before. The acid works well. But after cleaning check for any deep scores left behind. I've always looked at the lower side of the exhaust as not much of a problem. If you think about how the piston moves the rings only just move below the port. The inlet port they move all the way down the pot. Just my opinion. Others may differ but I've cleaned similar. Use meteor pistons and the not the cheapest pot. It's the rings on Chinese ones that are normally no good. Tis is all a bit da ja vu. I'm sure I answered a similar question to this not so long ago... Good luck with it.
-
Easiest way is to remove the pump, then the handle then the flywheel then pull the oil tank out. The pipe will come with the tank after removing the pump. It's the easiest way or you will struggle.
-
If there is air in the oil when coming out then a pipe has a hole in it. Remove the oiler and open the tank remove the oiler pipes from tank to pump and check for holes. Also from pump to oiler hole. It's the "pencil" looking pump so needs the hand removed and a bolt used to withdraw it from the saw. Have you tried adjusting the pump up at all?
-
The rod end bits are just the rubber gone. I did look at them all before it went and they looked ok to me.... No The rust parts arenot near mounts. Only one was near the brake servo. The rear is away from seat belt mounts. I know this stuff already. Hence why I wasn't concerned about the boot area. In the summer I need to rip the landy apart and weld new bits everywhere on it. Them underseal the lot. Just need summer to actually turn up first.
-
It's not the tech stuff I don't get. Just the bull baffles brains. Plain English please. Plus asking them to show me the areas and they have a blank look... Either they don't want to show me or they can't be bothered. I'm not stupid and I know my way round a car. My plain question of just show me the parts it has failed on. Get a wall response. I did ask them how much it would cost to fix the main bits, leave the welding as I can do that myself. I nearly had a heart attack..... Oh well. Get it done and move on. Bit of rant over.
-
Land rover failed the mot. A full sheet of advisory. This bit I don't get, they repeat the list of items so its look more than it is. I know the boot has rust in it and needs welding up but there are three bits on the boot. Left centre and right, why not just say boot.......? Well most of it is corrosion..... Show me a landy that hasn't. Guess lots of welding upside down and getting burnt is heading my way. The main parts where, headlight image incorrect. Tis is due to the bulb not putting out enough light...... So new bulb then!!! Track rod end rubber deteriated. Easy one. Front pan hard rod rubber bush gone. Had to ask what a panhard was..... So the anti roll bar gone then...... I hate garages....
-
Just slot the crank and casing together. Push the seals in then finish with a tap and perfectly sized socket. Easy peazy. When bolting the casing together turn the crank by hand just to ensure it can rotate. Unless the scoring is on the mating surface I wouldn't bother and if it is use some gasket sealant when putting together.
-
+1, think its called healthy competition. If he doesn't like it tough. It's a free world.
-
Cheers fellas. Wil get it sorted. Gardenkit sent a pm mate.
-
Your in dartford. You could send it my way of you want. Will have a looksy for ya.
-
Anyway back to the bench. What oil is suggested for Briggs and Stratton engines??
-
Could be crank seals. Could be tuning, could be scored piston and pot. Could be very many things. First a comp test, then a vac and pressure test. While these tests are getting done would deep clean the carb and check all diapgrams, then if all tests pass try running the saw. Would also look into tank vent and filters. Also clean the air filter up.
-
Oh dear. This could end very badly indeed. Could just use Burrells lathe.......... With some small mods it could work easily enough.
-
Because if you can get the trunk into say 10 foot lengths and get them out a turner can choose what bits he wants for turning, rather than risk cutting the good bits in half with the saw after not knowing what your cutting. More length gives more option.
