pleasant

Yup. Max recommended bar length on one of those is 14" Re, the choke lever jumping up. If you remove the filter top cover you will see the lever is a black plastic affair which is the width of the back of the machine. One end is held in the body by a circular hole for the black plastic rod to locate into and the other end clips in. These have a habit of unclipping so the lever is just floating around. This could be just your problem, but combined with that is a brass coloured earthing strip which also keeps tension on the black choke lever to stop it flapping around and keep it in position. The saw may have ended up in the bin for this 'problem' It's a simple fix though, if the brass earthing strip is incorrectly located underneath the plastic choke lever rod or has become distorted out of shape so doesn't apply pressure to the choke lever it will need relocating correctly and maybe bending slightly back into shape.The brass strip need to be located on the top side of the choke lever to exert downward pressure- it also needs to earth on the earth wire which slides into the choke lever when the lever is in the full upward off position. Bit difficult to explain....best thing to do is go to your friendly video sharing site at search for stihl ms180 choke lever....the ms170 is the same, and the 171 and 181 are very similar if you can't find a video of the 180

The issue here, is if we listened to all groups who complian about the environment, we simply wouldn't have any way of heating or producing electricity. No matter what options are available, there will always be protests. No to nuclear- too expensive, too dangerous, cannot easily dispose of the waste products No to coal and oil- coal- emissions and because they are fossil fuels No to burning materials such as wood- again because of emissions No to gas, because of fracking and supply No to wind, because people don't want their view spoilt and the materials cannot be recycled efficiently So we have to do something....because you simply cannot keep everybody happy. I just wish the government would be honest and tell people how it is, rather than thinking, being honest costs votes, when in reality I believe it would be the opposite.

Have you tested it for those 20 minutes with the fuel cap loose? If not, try that and see if it continues to run on

I always have them in after being purchased at screwfix......can't get any bits for them through my suppliers and technical support and info is zero, so I don't bother touching them

From my experience of four stroke hand helds, the main thing that is overlooked is regular checking of the oil level in the sump. Even more critical in handhelds as they are thrown around at different angles, more so, than say a mower.

👍😃

You're not good at making friends much are you? 🤣

Main dealer, and have been for various franchises over the years.

I'm afraid some of us have to. Having an 'open air' workshop and showroom isn't the most practical option. 😁

When you can earn £90 a day just stacking shelves in tescos thanks to the annual increase in minimum wage, which just shunts hourly rate increases further up the food chain to offset the base rate increase.....then £150 a day for a skilled person with all the outlay and running costs of equipment is cheap nowadays Just as long as you have enough customers willing to pay at least that figure.... but, should be more really

No worries.....my invoice will follow in due course. 😁

I would hazzard a guess its a bearing issue. Either crankshaft either end or possibly the clutch drum bearing. All three bearings are designed to keep the crankshaft in line. If a bearing is failing it can cause end float in the crank and can cause the crank to rotate elliptically. If you grab the flywheel can you move it side to side up and down? This will indicate your issue. Removing the recoil will allow the crank to move off its designated line thriugh the engine. Re fitting the recoil will line everything up again and restrict this 'off centre' movement and could cause the issue you have.

There arent casing screws located behind the flywheel...its a different typre of casing compared to a blower.

?? Thought he said it was fine once recoil was off

Stihl handeld blowers are prone to that. Had several machine given to me to dispose of because a customer has done 'self diagnosis' and tells me the engine is seized and they just want to buy a new one. 😇

To be honest,. Explaining that better now, is a lot more helpful. What you are stating would appear to be isolated to the recoil unit. My earlier comments to help, were on the understanding the flywheel without the recoil fitted would only move by hand less than a full revolution before it '"locked' again. Or maybe I read your original post incorrectly

Gym membership is classified as a benefit. 'Being fit and strong' to do the job should be a pre-requisite upon employment, not something your staff need to work up to via a gym membership. If an employee has suffered an injury whilst in your employment, then on an individual basis you could argue gym membership to recuperate would not be a benefit, but a required medical course of action, but if that were so, then your insurance would/should cover that cost anyway.

Flywheel not on correctly fouling the engine casing during rotation? Crank bearing failed or failing. Bent crank....causing clutch or flywheel to foul casing during rotation. Failed clutch drum bearing....again causing the drum to semi lock during rotation? Loose ignition coil causing fouling of the flywheel....particularly on the magnets during rotation

Agree. Current cordless technology hasn't plateau'd yet, so expect quite expensive kit to be old tech very quickly. I certainly wouldn't be investing thousands in current cordless stuff, knowing in a few months or a year or so better, more advanced battery tech will be available. When cordless tech gets to a point the next big jump is ten years in future development, then thats probably the time to invest if thats the way you want to go. Your kit will stay more relevant for longer. But in that time, biofuels would have developed sufficiently, to be cheaper and more viable as an option as it will run in all existing and future engines and there is no emissions

Seriously though.....whip out the plug and see it it pulls over normally. Take the muffler off and inspect condition of piston. Both easy first jobs

It's a Titan I'm afraid. I know that's not much help.....but it's honest.

No, that's fine. I see too many scored bores on a monday already, without confusing people even more.

'It doesn’t matter what it says' ....ok, fair enough if it doesn't matter

Just read what it says in the workshop manual. It states.....can run on a 50:1 mix (Stihl OR any other manufacturers oil recommended to be diluted at 50:1) OR using their own 'Titan' oil at their recommended dilution ratio of 100:1 I know you didn't state Stihl...I was using that as an example of a recommended dilution ratio, that should NOT be diluted at any other ratio other than what Stihl stipulate...likewise the Titan 100:1 as mentioned in the manual Or are you suggesting you are using a 50:1 dilution ratio oil at a 100:1 dilution rate in it now? If so, that is half the oil it needs to give the required protection to your engine.

This from their own workshop manual (which I have attached to an earlier post) mixing two-stroke oil (ratio 1:50) with TITAN 2T 100S 1:100 So yes, Stihl at 50:1 is fine, as is their own 'Titan' brand which is designed to be diluted at 100:1 So, I repeat, it is the oil manufacturers recommended dilution ratio that should be adhered to. If you ran Stihl 50:1 at 100:1 which the Titan oil is recommended to be diluted at, you would very quickly trash the engine. The dealer should know this.