pleasant

Ive seen better tbh. Deffo replace the piston. The cylinder isnt great, but thats just my opinion as im not in the habit of reusing scored barrels....being a main dealer that is a no no, but there are some on here who would maybe give you a better opinion. Its a lot of work to go to, to then find out once its all together you still have poor compression after and back to square one. But, hey its your free time and your arent relying on it to earn money, so maybe worth a try with a clean up and new piston and rings. Remember though you cant buy a cylinder on its own, so if you try a piston and rings, then have to buy a new cylinder, you will be paying for another piston and rings you wont need.

If you are buying anew stihl hand held its worth noting they have done away with the double spring ergo soft start recoil now, which was very unreliable and failed on a regular basis. This was a feature on the bg86 and sh86 models. The model numbers are still the same but the latest stock is coming through with the better, non soft start recoil. The rrp is a bit cheaper, but some dealers are still selling at the dearer soft start model price.....plus there is a lot of old stock out there so if you dont want one with a soft start (trust me you dont) then check before you part with your cash

They are handy. That saker one is a generic chinese one with saker labels. Some idiot advertises same think on one of the shopping channels. Yes, they do have a place. We have been selling the stihl one since it first came out..been very popular. However being light, pretty much zero noise and can easily be picked up and used, they do make people safety complacent and people forget its still a chain whizzing round as you wield it all over the place. Unlike a regular chainsaw people see no reason to adopt much if any ppe and what it is designed for you are always going to be in closer proximity to it than a regular ground saw. Because people use them on whippy bits (even shown in adverts) they hold the 'twig' in one hand and the tool in the other....generally far to close to each other. No mention in the blurb for the domestic consumer (their main market) that the machine is only as good as the sharpness of the chain. Joe public think the chains go on forever being sharp. Plus there no auto oiler so oiling tends to be forgotten or deliberately avoided

So he's dressed in drag and driving down to the deep south?

As an aside, but tenuously similar. We often have pedestrian mowers in, that a customer doesn't want to pay for a full blown service, but ideally just wants the blade removed, sharpened, balanced and re-fitted. We are happy to do this, but naturally on a petrol mower it requires either tipping on it's back or at least on it's side to get at the blade. To avoid oil migration either into the exhaust or worse, the air filter and carb, we vacuum remove the old oil prior to starting work and then re-fill it with new oil (normally between 500ml-600ml) at a cost of around £8.00 plus the charge to do the blade. You will be surprised how many people don't understand we need to remove the oil in the first place, and more astoundingly those that think we should put their old cruddy oil back so there's no oil charge!!!

Terrible way of operating. Any idiot can just keep fitting parts until it eventually cures a problem via a process of elimination. What they are saying is exactly that......and you are then paying for parts and work that wasn't necessary. And they are just saying 'tough' You take it to an 'expert' to avoid such instances.....otherwise you may as well adopt their attitude and keep fitting parts until it cures the issue, but without a labour charge if you do it yourself.

I note it states in the original post they have sold 50k of these chains. Having used several on demo, that 50k must have been supplied to a single user with an ms180 who just wanted to do a bit of pruning on a saturday morning.

'Trade counter gimps' You have a way with words dont you? And if only you knew. My post wasnt just for your benefit but for anyone else considering overriding legal safety operational devices which (whether you like it or not) renders the machine unsafe to use and invalidates any liability insurance to the operative and the public. Those are the facts....irrelevant as to whether in your opinion it may well be it makes the machine safer to use. In a hSe court your opinion would be irrelevant. I have seen it with my own eyes, young employees being asked or even told to use chainsaw with inoperative chainbrakes and the opc safety cut out levers on mowers tied up so the engine stays running when you empty the grassbox because the engine is a pig to restart. I have acted as an expert witness in both instances. My advice was to help other consider the consequences of what you were suggesting...not yourself, who would appears to know best. Hope that clarifies things for you

Efficiency aside, i just hope you have a lot of cash put away for when your insurance refuses to pay out....if another operator is involved and you have an HSE court case to answer...or you have to support yourself should it happen to you with no means of income due to injury. Not what you want to hear, but thats the reality of what is being suggested here.

Best part of watchIng barry sheene et al at Brands Hatch in the 70's was the smell after they all accelerated away from the start. Lovely castrol R

If you need a sealant thats oil and fuel resistant, then this is what we have used for the last ten years or so. TB1215 - ThreeBond THREEBOND-EUROPE.COM

Apologies.....HP Ultra.

Personally at home I use the Super HP.....this is fully synthetic as apposed to the basic green which is a semi synthetic. The HP is supposed to offer higher protection at the more extreme end of usage....plus it has an inhibitor added to prevent the quick deterioration of the crap unleaded fuel we now have. Like i say, i use it personally at home as opposed to the standard green Stihl oil because it doesnt cost me a lot, and a litre of it for use in my garden will last me a couple of years.

Vehicle needs to have a current V5 and be 'road worthy' ie can legally be driven on the road. If the vehicle it is on, would fail an mot (whether legally it needs one or not) you cannot transfer the number. Once the 'donor' vehicle can legally be used on the road, then you can transfer the number to another vehicle or on to a retention document for future allocation or sale. There have been some very valuable numbers been lost due to the vehicle they are on being beyond an economical repair even taking into account the value of the plate. Additionally, certain categories of vehicle you cannot transfer plates across to. For example agricultural vehicles with decent plates may not automatically be transferred on to a car

Dirko is good stuff...but a pig to get off your fingers afterwards.....and everything elso on the engine you touch!

The product is identical. It was a part numbering change to keep parts for the 200 series a uniform prefix. The 4119 prefix was made an obsolete prefix for the 200 series

..slept in what, exactly??

Part number 4119 034 3003 is the earlier, previous number for 1114 034 3001. 4119 034 3003 now supercedes to use part number 1114 034 3001. Both piston rings are the same part number- so you need to order Qty 2 1114 034 3001 and you will be fine. Haven't checked what L&C are charging, but from Stihl the rrp including vat is £6.36 per ring. Hope that helps.

We sell a lot of Stihl (50:1) 2 stroke oil to owners of these little chinese pit bikes, and RC planes and cars without any issues. As previously mentioned, never use marine 2-stroke oil though.....and never buy generic unbranded 2-stroke oil from places like screwfix, b and q and garden centres that give no specific dilution ratio ON THE BOTTLE. If it states 'consult operators manual' on the bottle...bin it. Its is the manufacturer of the oil...not the machine that knows the recommened and correct ratio for THIER oil. Stihl green is good, and popular. Low smoke and low carbon build up. Was specifically manufacturer for the Stihl 4-mix low revving engines....if you run one of those, then thats the oil you must use. Seen too many carboned plugs, exhaust ports and pistons on those that havent used it.

Dont tell everyone.....thats a 25 quid job at my place!

ahhhh.....but do you sell the 'thingy' seperately though? 😁

Remove plug cap from ht lead....it will slide off now the spring isnt fitted. Then with the bare end of the ht lead you will see a puncture hole where the wire was fitted into. Relocate the sharp pin end of the wire back into the hole in the ht lead. Get some wd40 and spray end of lead and inside rubber cap. Hold wire and ht lead in place using needle nose pliers. Then push the round end of the wire back into the small entrance hole in the rubber ht cap until you feel it pop 'home' in the head of the cap. Look inside cap to ensure round end of wire is located correctly to fit top of plug. If not gently rotate with pliers until it is.

Depends on the area, but a decent hayterette would be my shout. Only a 19" cut though, but fine for domestic area use. Probably the best mower hayter ever made

Will give them a try.

We use dremels with a stone attachment unless theres impact damage to the cutting edges most teeth really just need the gum and varnish build up removed rather than the need to remove too much steel