GardenKit
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Everything posted by GardenKit
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Funny, mine changed on the PC but not on the IPad:confused1:
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As Spud says for the spring. When you wind the cord on make sure that when the cord is fully out, it is stopped by the knot not allowing the pulley to turn further. As opposed to the spring being coil bound and stopping further movement of the pulley. The latter wil result in spring breakage.
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Had a brushcutter in which had just been switched to Aspen by the owner, but was playing up. He was blaming the Aspen, but this is what I found in the carb, and that has definately not come out of an Aspen container. So its just coincidence, and would have played up even if filled with petrol after winter layup. A clean up and new carb kit and its running like a dream.
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Found some pics of the rods used in assembling the carb to the machine. This is on a GCV, but its similar to a GX. When the air filter base is on, push it firmly against the engine to hold everything in place, withdraw one rod and replace with a bolt. Nip this up, then replace the second one.
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The only cause for flooding when the engine is stopped is, as Dean says, a contaminated float valve seat or needle. This is quite common. A punctured float is possible but rare. If the leakage is only slight the engine may consume the petrol whilst running and therefore not effect the running. A greater leakage than can be used will choke the engine to a halt. If petrol is pushed out of the air filter whilst the engine is running, then the inlet valve is not fully closing, but this is quite rare. Reassembly of the carb gaskets and heat shields incorrectly will not cause flooding, but will result in starting and running problems. A couple of 5mm steel rods will assist in lining up the bits whilst reassembly takes place.
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Nice kit, Mr Blair. Do all your cranes need annual testing for insurance purposes like my workshop kit does?
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You obviously look after yours very well, but I am afraid many people do not. I have had many of them in with failed gears, as well as con rods etc, mostly due to lack of grease, and the cost of the gear set is around £180 plus vat for the 0-135 deg model. Add labour to that and the maths is correct, its cheaper to replace the whole thing than to repair it. The Tanaka range is very good stuff on the whole, but as with anything, Stihl included, there are some items not as good as others. The brushcutters and hedgecutters are very good machines. The top handle saws are actually pretty good, especially the largest of the 3 models, the TCS3401 which actually has a 2 year pro use warranty. But, at an RRP of only £340 plus vat, it is unfair to compare it with something like an MS200T. The little TCS3301 at only £299 is a little plasticy though.
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As the others say, aluminium welding is not easy and best left to professional welders who charge professional prices. The other problem is that you have to strip it right out in order to get it properly clean and for the welder to get access without melting everything else on the saw. Once you have done all this you may as well fit a new case IMO. If you go with the JB weld type of repair you will save a load of time, and if it does not work you have'nt lost too much.
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Good choice. It would not matter if you were using it 24/7, it will stand it as well as any other brand, and much better than many. And, as I said above, if you do manage to break it at least its economic to fix.
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Its interesting to note the comment that the Huskie hedgtrimmer head is the same as the Tanaka. It is in fact the tanaka head and its credit to Tanaka quality that Huskie chose to use it rather than build there own. Its is worth also considering repair costs when buying a long reach trimmer. ALL hedgetrimmer attachments will at some time suffer gearbox or blade problems. I have never yet repaired a Makita, but they are not the most durable and they do fail. A blade set costs £142 plus vat, and a gear set costs £227 plus vat. Hence they are not repaired, a new head retails at £259 plus vat A Stihl gear set cost around £180 plus vat and fail frequently. A new head is around £240 plus vat. Do the math. A Tanaka head is excellent quality, but still suffer the odd breakage, often due to lack of grease, just like the others. Blade set £55 plus vat. Gear set £49 plus vat, plus an hours labour. Or new at £200 plus vat. Oh, and the Tanaka TPH 270s is slightly MORE powerful than the Makita.
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The Tanaka company was bought out by Hitachi, who did not produce this type of kit, so the Hitachi branded machines are actually Tanaka. Hitachi are however starting to introduce some Chinese kit under the Hitachi brand, so its best to keep to the Japanese Tanaka.
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The plus side of the small tank is that it keeps the weight down, every few grams help.
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I have sold hundreds of the Tanaka units over the last 15 yrs or so and many of the first ones are still going strongly. The 23cc power unit has ample power for hedge cutting and keeps the weight down, much lighter than Stihl or Echo and very durable.
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If it was anyone on here, I bet they wont admit it.
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Yep, I would suggest that many issues can be avoided by a proper test and tach tune on PDI. I test all my saws on a piece of cordwood round the back of my unit. I currently use a bit of 12 month felled sweet chestnut about 10". This gives a good resistance and shows up tuning issues. Most saws will benefit from a re-tweak after a few days work, so its worth taking it back for a quick tune if not satisfied.
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I am sure I have seen several posts on here where the 201 has been succesfully retuned. I have only sold one so far. It was a little weak on pdi so I tuned it. The customer, who has had many 200t,s over the years and 020's before that is perfectly happy with it.
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it sounds like a little time with a screwdriver, a tach and a tech will sort it out.
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At least its being sold as a used saw, and the seller seems genuine enough. He even qualifies the fact that it may not be a 395 by "at least that is what it says on the sticker" Looks like he got caught, but not really any more than if he had bought a genuine saw that turned out to be a non runner. I say, good luck to him, hope he shifts it, there will be someone stupid enough to buy it. No one in the know will buy it so it should not hurt anyone on here. Its the fraudsters trying to pass off new fakes that really need stopping.
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Ditto, glad you found them good, Spud.
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Yes, I use some very large right angled circlip pliers, but only because in 10 yrs I have not got round to making up a little 3 legged pin wrench.
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Just checked, it was on Spuds thread last saturday and it was Jamie1.
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Sorry pleasant, you mixed me up with someone else who posted last week. I am not 6-8 weeks and heaven forbid I ever will be, but 2-3 weeks just like you. It is manic busy this time of year, mostly because people leave it much too late to get their machines in. By the way, apart from being wrong about my lead time, you are spot on with the rest of your post. Very well put.
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£45.98 plus vat!
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I hate doing those Husqvarna ones, they can take a lot of time and its often better in the dealers situation to just replace the whole assembly, rather than run up labour bills.
