GardenKit

I don't think so Richard, the chain really was brand new, and the sharpen I gave it was only a light one which would not have lowered the cutter much. It was weird though, I should have photo'd the chips. I tried it in different woods to, just to see. All had very long chips/shavings.

I had a very strange problem today. A customer had just inherited a still 028AV, old, but hardly used. Starts and runs like a dream and has a brand new bar and chain. Halfway through the first 12" log the chain seizes up. Dismantle and clean, off it goes. Again it jams up halfway through the log, so he brings it to me. The chain cover was packed with very long wood shavings, the shavings just could not escape because they were so long and tried to carry round, getting jammed at he top. I took off the brand new .325 stihl chain and put on a brand new Oregon chain, tried it again and its perfect. Put the Stihl chain back on, the problem came back. I then sharpened the Stihl chain, and its OK. Seems the new Stihl chain was just to sharp when new and taking too large a shaving, but disturbingly, a little less sharp when sharpened. I guess this may be quite common, but its the first time I have ever seen it.

Hello Steve My Norton Antivirus is busy blocking a Web Attack which it says is coming from Arbtalk. Anyone else having this? Should it bother me?

Been hard at it in the bedroom all evening, loads of screwing and banging....... Bl**dy self assembly wardrobes:001_rolleyes: Anyway, to get back on thread, hows the OP getting on with his 141?

It actually was left over from my ag engineering days. Used it for assembling the old Molex slurry pumps mostly, but also for holding shims and even gears in place when assembling gearboxes etc. Now used mainly for helping fuel pipes through tank grommets, and holding carb bowl seals in place. Also handy for 'sticking' nuts into sockets to assemble in awkward places. not as dirty as grease.

Purple Nitrile disposables all day long here Steve, or the hands never get clean.

yeh, but it should be vaseline, not KY Richard:lol:

Hahaha, as it happens, about 20 yrs ago i bought a 12.5kg bucket of petroleum jelly.Its a great assembly aid. Still got about 80% left though. If I depart this world suddenly the loved ones who sort out my workshop will be saying WTF!!

Spud is spot on as usual. All 141 saws as well as 136,137 etc had this design. The little green pipe shown on my picture fits into a drilling in the cylinder face beside the inlet manifold tube. The white plastic plate that forms the base of the air box has a male tube moulded into it which inserts into the end of the green tube. They regularly perish and split as in the pics, so its always the very first thing I check on these saws.

Bump. No takers last week for the ATCO. It goes in the scrap skip at the end of the week unless anyone wants it at the new price of £20 (to The Childrens Trust) Buyer to collect. Suitable for spares or repair.

A very common problem on the 141 is that the pulse tube splits open. When the split is small it is sufficient to lose the pulse at idle speed, thus loosing the fuel pump, but may be able to maintain a pulse as crank speed increases. Its easy to check, although the split is often out of sight and may not be seen without removing the carb and carb mounting plate which is easy enough to do. Probably worth checking first.

running again now, well done Steve

I used some Quicksilver marine 2 stroke oil left over from my 2 stroke outboard motor, so no cost to me.

When I started this thread I did not know what to expect, but thanks to the replies, both positive and negative, I have added 200ml to my Transit. It does seem quieter, but thats probably in my imagination. I will keep you informed. Thanks all.

As Moreton says, it has been covered before, but it can be time consuming to search. Does your oil tank drain right out, or does it just get a little messy. Many people complain of leaks on saws, and most of the time there is no fault. There is a natural tendancy for the bar grooves, the oilways, and oil saturated into sawdust, to drain down after use. Keep the saw on a piece of thick cardboard, it will soak up loads of oil neatly.

I'm glad you are pleased with it Bob. You have a saw, I have space and The Chldrens Trust has £20. Everyone's happy. It was good to meet you.

Brilliant!! , and only a couple of days ago we wondered if we could get to £6000. Great work Steve.

Good point Steve. Upon reflection it might be best to look at the plug before adjusting anything at all. If the plug is a healthy coffee colour then the H setting is OK and there are no serious problems. Just adjust the L screw as advised to get the right idle and pickup. If the plug is white or greyish then there may be trouble brewing and expert advise is needed.

You are not wrong in what you say lgw, but many people are too quick to dismiss a mulcher, and many do so in ignorance (I don't mean you) I do get contractors wanting to buy them, but only to do 2-3 week cuts, and I advise against that. They would be better off just side discharging. If an operator works with the machine, and is able to cut frequently they are great, and much quicker than collecting. And without the need to dispose of tons of grass cuttings. The condition of the grass will also improve. A contractor should probably not have a mulcher as his only machine though.

I can't help thinking that you have the wrong diaphragms for the carb, or the wrong needle or arm. A thought has just occurred to me though. This may not be the case here, but I have come across some old carbs (I can't remember which) where the metering diaphragm centre peg is grooved an sits into a little fork on the lever (like the needle does) If this is the case here it could explain the diaphragm being too high if not assembled properly?.

Mulching is indeed more dificult in wet conditions, but so is collection, in fact some collectors won't work at all in the wet. You have to learn to work with a mulching mower, but when you understand them they are brilliant. I always tell customers with mulchers that they should cut just before it needs cutting, then they will get a fantastic finish.

nice job, but I would be tempted to bolt some nice 2" hardwood on top of those sloping legs, or there may be occasional sparks.

The last job today was an MS180 which would not start. The owner had unintentionally broken the throttle shaft because he had forced the choke down without squeezing the throttle, a common fault. Got it running, so he wanted a full service, nothing wrong with it, he said. But it would not oil the chain. So it was a case of pulling the pump out to clean out the little plug of sawdust blocking the input hole. reassembled and it was fine. To get the pump out you first need to pry the front AV from the frame and lever the handle to one side and wedge it there. A 19mm socket wedges it nicely. Then remove the pipe from the pump cavity and screw a long 5mm bolt into the pump. Using a vice grip on the bolt. pull the pump from the cavity, clean it and reinsert it ensuring the discharge hole lines up with the port. Simples.

Just ordered another £20 worth, lets hope we can get it over £7000. Great job Steve, I am well proud to be associated with you, and with the Forum.

Careful Richard, we have a similar past. If you continue to tread the same path you will be just like me in 28years:001_rolleyes: