GardenKit

A few workshop photos

We find Quickbooks very good. Clearly laid out, very easy to use. Currently on installed version of Pro 2015 rather than online. I am still a bit neolithic and don't fancy my accounts being in the cloud.

Tuning procedure, without tach. As its ticking over after a fashion you are part way there already. Firstly tune the WOT with the H screw. Before attempting to tune, make sure the 2 line head is fully wound and the 2 lines are both extended to the correct length, as the length of line controls the max speed. Rev the machine flat out for a minute or so, then adjust the H screw. Try it clockwise first. If the revs increase keep turning it clockwise until the revs peak then start to drop off (lean drop off point). Then turn slowly counter clockwise, the revs will peak then hold steady for a small amount of turn before dropping off at the "rich drop off point". Turn slightly clockwise from this point until trust before the revs start to peak. Leave it there for now. Don't start listening for "four stroking", this is a strimmer so is working under load even when not in work. Now turn your attention to the L screw. Let the machine idle if it will and turn the L screw in the same manner as we did the H. First turn clockwise until the idle peaks and then drops. Then turn counter clockwise until the revs start to drop off and the engine gets a little lumpy. Then turn slightly clockwise until the idle smooths out. So we are close to the rich drop off point rather than the lean drop off point. Set the Idle speed screw to give a smooth tickover a little below the point at which the centrifugal clutch engages. Repeat the L screw adjustment. Let it idle for half a minute then blip the throttle. If the engine picks up smoothly then everything is good, but if the engine falters or refuses to rev from tick over, then turn the L screw slightly to rich (counter clockwise) and try again. Sometimes a compromise needs to be made between the smoothest tick over and the best pick up. These adjustments all assume that the carb is in perfect order and correctly set up. In particular the height of the needle valve arm, as if too high the mix will be rich and if too low it will be lean. Also, ensure that you turn the screws very, very slowly and keep an awareness of the the screwdriver position at all times. Hope this is understandable and that it it helps.

Time to step in and do a citizens moderation on this thread before someone kills themselves on the advice that they can work on a 45 degree slope with a standard ride on machine. Simply put, they can't. 45 degrees is incredibly steep, you can't even stand safely on a slope like that. I know that many foolhardy souls will dismiss guidelines, but they do so at their peril. Exceeding the guidelines not only endangers the well being of the operator and those around him but will also nullify his insurance I suspect. HSE guidelines limit all standard ride on kit to 15 degrees 16-20 degree slopes should only be tackled with pedestrian machines or hand held. Or very expensive purpose built bank machines. 20-30 degrees only with specialist, purpose built kit 30 degrees plus, only with side arm kit.

Good result Simon I always just cut the limiter tag off the mixture screw before undoing it for carb cleaning. Then set for 1.5 turns. It is actually quite easy to tune whilst running with a long shank screwdriver slid gently in from the rear of the air filter and just edging past the crankcase breather. Long flat head screwdriver for mixture and cross head for idle speed.

Not sure what the official setting is Simon, I tend not to reat too many instructions! But I always set it at 1.5 turns out and then fine tune with the engine running.

The mower bench has been a bit busy for the last few days with Ride Ons. A full day yesterday enabled me to catch up a bit and they are now all ready for delivery back to the customers.

Follow your gut Mike!

Not too many problems discussed on the Subaru owners forum John, so may be not much of a problem since the 2007-2009 batch. Anyway, why not go petrol? The boxer petrols are just so well proven. I just bought a Forester XT, well impressed, but don't expect it to be frugal on fuel.

Twice a week down here now!

I guess it could be said that I am bias, as I have sold Stiga for 30 years! But to be fair I have sold other makes as well, and in my opinion no other mulching mower comes close to the finish left by Stiga. Yes, the seating position is higher than a Husqvarna which can be a disadvantage on steep ground, but access on and off is easier, especially for anyone with back problems. The Stiga is the only pivot steer that 'tracks' the front and back wheels exactly, and the bodywork stays within the turning arc. 85cm and 95cm decks will both pass through the 1050 gap, but the 95cm only just does it as it is 1030 wide overall at its widest point. Mine fits into my shed with absolutely no clearance, but the pivot steer makes it simple to line up as a little tweak on the steering virtually 'side shifts' the deck. Have a look on my website for details. Not touting for business, just providing information. You will find most dealers are similar in price. https://www.garden-kit.co.uk/ride-on-mowers?filter=brand:stiga;

Hi Mikerecike, you seem to have been quiet for a while! You have done the right thing with the throttle. The Honda linkage is particularly poor quality and getting the right balance of throttle movement and choke operation can be tricky, sometimes involving a little bit of metal bending! To be honest they are only designed to achieve 2800 rpm anyway. Best to get the cable set so as to apply full choke, with the choke coming off fully in the correct position on the throttle lever, but this can leave the torx throttle screw short of the lever and a bit of a compromise needs to be reached. Don't be tempted to mess with the governor arm, it won't help. But the spring which attaches the governor arm to the throttle lever on the plate (you can just see it under the fuel tap on your first pic) is the thing that controls the revs, and tweaking this to make it shorter will increase revs if all else fails. The transmission could be slow because the belt is slack, so replacing the belt and tensioning it correctly to stop slippage may help. If the cable has never been adjusted it could mean that the clutch inside the gearbox has been slipping for a while and could be worn beyond the point of no return, but usually adjusting it as you have will restore some loss of drive, if only for a short period.

Update. We decided to go for the Forester XT. Had it 3 weeks now and have to say it's truly amazing. Sent from my SM-G903F using Arbtalk mobile app

Go for it! Probably the best mower that money can buy. Bit pricey though!

To be quite honest I am not really sure. Although I have one in the showroom (by accident!) its not a product range that I have taken on although I know the company well. I think anything of 2015 MY and onwards will be OK though.

No problem Paul. It's always a pleasure to help, and to put the record straight about Tanaka parts availability. I have sold Tanaka kit for 30 years and have found it totally brilliant.

The roller versions are single speed because of the more compact gearbox which sits between the two halves of the the roller. They used to be a little too slow for contactors but a higher speed box was introduced a couple of years ago on the 'pro' model giving it a speed only a little less than the 4 wheeler.

That's because yours is a 4 wheeler. The rollers are single speed. I have a brand new 2016 model Wetwang 48cm roller with electric start at 25% discount, so only £750 for anyone seeking a bargain.

I got your PM, will check stock tomorrow. Strange about the tank bolts though, they are loctited in the factory and flaming difficult to undo.

Tanaka parts are easy to get through the dealer network. The site mentioned portrays itself as the official UK supplier but it's just another dealer. Let me know exactly model, Inc serial number. And exactly which parts are required.

Or try the Tanaka TBC 4200 DLV.

Go for the Twinclip!!

The BK53ED is not a Kawasaki brushcutter, it's a Mountfield brushcutter with a Kawasaki engine, hence the price. The running gear is not of the same quality as the old Kawasaki machines. It is good, but not that good, but still good value at £400. The same machine was indeed done in yellow last season for Stiga. Kawasaki no longer produce outdoor power equipment, they only do the engines. However, the Mitox Pro machines are made using the same running gear and Kawasaki engines as the original Kawasaki machines and are as close to the original as you can get. They are a tad more expensive than the Mountfield though at just under £600 and carry a 3yr pro warranty.

We test drove a new Forester XT at the weekend, its certainly got some poke when in the 'sharp' mode!