openspaceman

Yes about 50% of the gorse I see on my walks on the local commons has died off, no sign of fresh sprouts yet either the rest seems unaffected. Broom, another legume, also has a habit of suddenly just up and dying.

Fairy ring - Wikipedia EN.WIKIPEDIA.ORG

I have recovered a small number of cylinders now and have never used a hone, just 150 grit wet and dry paper in order to scratch a horizontal pattern over the damaged vertical scoring to encourage a bit of oil retention.

It's hard to judge, it doesn't look bad and the standard finger can detect a half thou groove and that is not enough to worry about.

No it's not. Since I stopped work I have no access to meters for compression or air leaks so no longer any feel for this.

Yes I've had this in the past. Also most electronic ignition systems need to turn over at 400rpm before they will produce a spark and this may be easy if the plug is out but if the motor is nipped up not possible with the plug in. I have a neon telltale which fits between the plug cap and plug which I use to see if any current is running in the HT circuit.

I've had a message from an old friend who I haven't seen since he moved further south some 30 years ago that his McCulloch GBV 345 blower stopped and will not restart: "My leaf blower stopped and refused to start, so did all the usual's, still no go, long story short. Good blue spark on new plug, flywheel off, check knib key all o.k. mainshaft oil seal is just a sealed ball race, compression 140 psi, whole engine in good condition and low hours. changed carb for known good one, still nada. The engine wont even fire with a squirt of petrol in the intake or the plug hole. " He's well up on engines, great and small, and has done all the checks I would have done except check the piston rings through the exhaust so I cannot think what else to do and it's a bit far to go and look. Any ideas?

Like @nepia siskin were the only birds to use the niger feeder, not had any taken for a few years now, never had siskin and goldfinch together. Now goldfinch don't come down into the garden but occasionally one will sing to himself on the TV aerial. Both our neighbours have cats.

The business of actual moisture content is unlikely to go to court because the regulations make woodsure the regulator of the "scheme" just as gassafe oversee the domestic gas installations. So the LA weights and measures department will first check if the supply has been made legally (by someone registered with woodsure) if not then no proof of moisture content is necessary as the regulations have been breached. If the supply is from a member of woodsure then they will be expected to check up and deal with the matter.

Those green grit wheels are very friable, so they keep presenting fresh grit to the carbide but just because the diamond doesn't produce as much dust isn't a good reason not to wear a mask and have good ventilation as tungsten carbide dust is not likely to be good for you in any case.

If they are both .063 drive links and you swap the drive rim and bar too I don't see why not.

I made a minor attempt at calibrating my meter https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/topic/125741-valiant-moisture-meter/?do=findComment&comment=1887034 I'd need to do the same for a large number of samples to get any idea of accuracy and precision, or lack thereof.

So that's why I managed to get through safely

Amusing but charcoal conducts electricity so I have just tested a bit from my last stove fire a week ago, bone dry but reads 25% on the Valiant

Having played with mine a bit now I accept that it seems reasonably consistent and if the split face is around 20% reading it's fit to burn. Most of my wood is reading around 11-15% on the exposed faces and about 30% in the middle so to get a homogeneous reading I cut a near square section of beech and removed 2" from each end such that all 6 faces gave readings between 28% and 30%. I oven dried this from 131 grams to 98 grams. So 28% on the meter oven dried to 25.2% mc wwb or 33.7mc dwb Still not convinced but tending toward wwb.

Thanks but the screws arrived today, the new version has a slight flange, to give a better bearing surface I suppose, so I shall replace the other two with them also. Saw starts and runs fine and without altering the HI needle it was reaching 13k rpm, so I have backed it off to 12500. I cannot see why it seized as carburation is stable but I have nothing to cut at home so testing will have to wait till I have some work. The rebuilt Jonsered 920 is also fixed after fun and games with a broken recoil spring. The Tillotson carburettor was pretty contaminated with fine sawdust both on the engine side of the diaphragm and under the metering chamber preventing full needle valve opening. It runs fine now but I have set HI idle to 8900 rpm, it sounds too flat but safer for a while. I have to gently ease it over compression and can then only drop start it in the absence of a wimp button. The lady apparently does not want it back. It is too big a saw for everyday use. She now has a Husky 550 so it will be interesting to try the 346 against that. I now have far too many motor saws, 13 at the last count including 3 brushcutters , the 346 is the youngest by about 20 years.

I was out walking the dogs yesterday and a chap was flying a model Vaught Corsair which made me wonder if there were any updates on this find, was it only one engine that came up? How was it identified?

Thanks, so the part @spudulike pointed out is no longer current but the part I ordered should be correct but isn't available, the parts that arrived are the standard machine screw for the later 346 and the too large screws are the handle mounts which I had forgotten I ordered. I'll just have to wait and see what arrives when they are back infrom Husqvarna.

Thanks @spudulike L&S don't list it on their site. In fact I only see it on a parts diagram for a Jonsered 2145. Do you know what the IHSCT stands for and whether the thread form is a standard metric or and Electrolux special?

Well the screws arrived from L&S and the 503 21 55-25 are too large diameter, this is a bit frustrating @adw do you know what is the correct cylinder base machine screw for the early Husky 346xp? One was missing from the box of bits and the ones that were there are 25mm by 5mm but with a coarse thread and cap head.

I think you've answered you own question, without pruning the more vigorous shoot from the rootstock will out compete the fancy coloured leaf scion

I gave away may last teardrop shaped sandvik a few months ago, completely outclassed by Japanese pull saws. Even the footpath volunteer group have lashed out on Silky saws now.

Lime? Smell and stringy bast should be an indicator

Yes it is normally dark green but it has slender wavy needles and is arguably more common than other 3 needle pines. This tree looks a bit suppressed and juvenile which may be affecting its form. If the needles are truly drooping then have a look at mexican P patula, I don't remember seeing one ever but it may fit with the very long needles.

Yes that's right, sorry I thought @Squaredy would be familiar with the term.