tree-fancier123

when people stem inject glyphosate to kill off all or part of a tree, they must have tried similar application methods to get potent fungicides circulating through the trees sapwood. If it was that easy all the big arboretums and parks would be injecting everything in sight. The mycelium is presumably killable by man made chemicals though

Sorry 40 ft oak - but it takes ages to get there - if it was a more rapidly growing species, then no problem, but to replicate a 40 ft oak tree roots don't go that deep, could the builders have used 8 by 4 sheets of 3mm stainless plate as a root barrier? Extra cost, but a nice big oak I think is an asset to a property - and keeps peasants like me employed sweeping the leaves

40 year old oak - 40 years growth to replicate

I've been looking too - something that will go low enough on mig for bodywork, but will also do stick for thicker plate. you may have seen this thing - does it all, although only DC tig (not for ally) - but HF start' not lift or scratch. tecarc multi 200i mig tig arc welding machine shop in Southsea with some of the brands you mention Personally I may buy a set without tig like this CWS Best MIG 160i MIG welder - Noz-Alls Ltd [ame= ] [/ame], much cheaper, wouldn't have much need for tig .

I've gotten away with it until today, somehow a bar nose jammed and I couldn't fix it. I messed around for ages, then remembered I had a shorter bar in the van, so just finished the job. A spare saw would have saved a lot of time. If it had been a mechanical problem I would have been stuffed.

done - thanks for the help guys, was worried it was going to break up during climbing or felling, but it turned out not to be as totally decayed as I'd thought. As per Mick and Timbernut - I cut off a big pollard head facing the intended direction and felled onto it. Got a way to go with the felling cuts, but didn't cut through the hinge, so could have been worse

so if there's a last gasp left in it - no worries about a racing snake clambering about

What I was asking was on something like that, dacayed, but no higher than the ladder - say upto 27 feet, if you are tied to it, flipline, strop, then if it fails could you have more chance of serious injury, than if perched on a ladder unattached, as if tied to the stem it could land on top of you? Of course if the tree is in reasonable nick then I agree, harness the best option.

I don't think they want to spend anything, but because it's a bit of a safety thing they kind of have to - they didn't ask for a quote, as I do regular work for them. I'm not expecting it to be a lot, it's not a big tree, just tricky for me to judge as I haven't been up any that far gone. The two things with felling are avoiding damaging the drain, and controlling the fell, at least to within a say 120 degree radius, guess a tiny gob on the good bit and maybe a three inch wide hinge if there's and good wood to make the hinge?

sounds sensibleish, although if I pulled a rope and it started to go, imagine it could twist and not land predictably at all wasn't planning on lowering it off, just freefall onto some bags of cuttings.

only a little garden gate, it could be craned out from next door , but I think they'd rather set fire to the tree than their money

Are there times (other than honey fungus) that it is thought not good to leave wood with fruiting bodies on nearby for fear of cross contamination? In forestry they used to be keen to get rid of dodgy trees stump and all? Maybe you can't sterilize the landscape and it is of no protective benefit? In the perhaps extremely rare case that a 25' tree were to fail while the pollard heads are being cut off why would it be better on spikes than on a ladder?

thanks, will do - I know I'd only be 20 feet up cutting the top off, but was worried about it breaking up while I was tied on.

I've not climbed many badly decayed trees - and while I get the gist of the 'if it stayed up in the last storm it should be alright' - I also have reservations after reading on here some years ago about a climber in germany losing use of his legs after trying to top out a decayed beech that shattered as the top went over with him tied on to it. I've been saving up a few dumpy bags of hedge cuttings (haven't got any tires) to save damaging the lawn with the pollard heads, also the path has a drain under. I thought of three ways 1. put a ladder up and work unnattached and slice the pollard heads off, then disk it down off the ladder 2. spike up the 'good side' and do as above. 3 attach tirfor to top then to bottom of neighbouring tree and try to take all the pollard heads in a big top, maybe off a ladder again. Not sure how much good wood there is to control a fell. Obviously no way to wedge the back cut, so hopefully the tirfor would prevent it from sitting back. So interested in hearing from more experienced people about how they would do it, preferably without damaging lawn or paths and drains under. Also if the armchair arborists feel they need to write something too - no worries! thanks for reading and any replies - I know these knackered trees are routine for some of you. It's about 25' high 2' ish dbh

or this way - more hours less reward

stainless ones around for mail order e.g £4.19 for 25 delivered 4.0mm (x Choose Length) A2 Stainless Steel Sealed Dome Blind Pop Rivets | eBay much harder work pulling them up with a hand gun than ally though

if you didn't have or want to pay for welding, it may be possible to bodge a serviceable repair using a pop rivet gun to put the patch on, if there is room for the rivet above

that machine does look far better value for 11k than the used Jensens, often with similar hours and an extra 5k price tag. Only thing is they are so heavy, difficult to see how a Transit type outfit could use one, maybe if they had a big 4wd pick up/ landy as well

I got a bit confused here - sounds more like it was 2 lines holding it up and another 2 to lower the cut sections

sometimes you have to get up to go to the toilet, get some food and drink, but in between some people can apparently get through whole books in a day or two. Surely not technical or biology books though

total 4 18mm ropes on it, should be good to hold 20 ton or so if the anchors are, sounds like you incorporated a good margin of safety

I think £12 per hour is an admission you don't know the trade. As long as you know enough and are keen to learn there will be plenty of pensioners looking to save a bit on the annual mower service, sharpening hedgcutter blades etc. Just advertise it, at £15 or even £17 free collection, delivery. I appreciate you want to undercut to get going, but I wouldn't take a £1500 Honda mower to someone who said £12 per hour. I'd think they had been on the Youtube vids and got a socket set for xmas.

so it's 250 for a few hours, but in another recent thread at least 3 guys saying they've had chippers, saws etc stolen and lost £15k, £30k etc, plus all the worry and anger to live with. When you use thousands of pounds of gear that could break down or get stolen you need to take a lot of money on at least some jobs to cover it all

part of someone's life that they'll never get back

I guess it all depends on police budgets, but in this case there may be prints on the steering wheel and drivers passengers doors, so if they bother to check and either of them have been done before with prints on record