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wisewood

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Everything posted by wisewood

  1. I carved these back in Jan. but have been over to give them a final tart up for today's unveiling. Good to see them planted so to speak.
  2. That's a good price for a running 200, well done mate. Gotta love an easy fix:sneaky2:
  3. Not seen any tree houses yet, here's one of mine
  4. I use Clarks bio tack as the yard I work from has a strong environmental policy. It oils well but my main issue is the way it gunks up the cooling fins on my ms 200 carving saw. It's like burned on tar!
  5. I agree, looks great. Oak leaves are done a lot and look good. Just go with your gut
  6. What are you doing in this neck of the woods Barry? You could called in for a brew mate:biggrin:
  7. If you only squared up the back and top you would be left with more character wood on show.
  8. I've been thinking the same too. The insert into knee pockets would be good, although that won't solve my issue of wearing out the knees!
  9. Dave they are worth it mate, great at re setting nail damage! I don't know if you do any milling but when you have to take 3mm off every cutter on a 3ft bar after hitting shrapnel they are a god send.
  10. The composting site on Formby bypass, used to be Walkers organic Solutions, different name now but same lads.
  11. 1/4 chain used to need modifying but these days it's carving ready out the box. I guess there's not enough demand for carving lo pro, it's not too much hassle to modify though.
  12. Fair point, I was too eager to share my granberg method and prematurely posted without the full facts:blushing:
  13. Brand new chain, all cutters the same length. Taking exactly the same amount off each back corner will leave you with modified cutters of the same length.
  14. Yeh I guess I should've said, because the radius of the nose of the carving bar is so small the heel of the cutter sticks up above the cutting edge as it goes round. This makes it really tough to do any bore cuts. Mick Burns does a much better job of explaining here Carving information from Mick Burns, Chainsaw Carver
  15. Apologies for the poor quality pics and vid, but I thought this might be useful to others. This is the first time I've done this and speaking with Si O'Rourke he normally uses a grinder with a sanding disc to take off the back of the cutters. I've got a Gransberg Precision grinder and it struck me that if I mount it on the bar backwards I could set it to grind the heel of each cutter, ensuring they are all trimmed to the same size. The chain looks pretty good, it was too late to try it out tonight but I will see how it cuts tomorrow and update:001_smile:
  16. I've not tried sugi yet but cannon bars have led the field for many years and will out last other cheaper bars. Oregon will last if youre an occasional carver and don't try and do everything with it. The are really only for detail, block out and shape what you can with a standard bar.
  17. LOL, I agree good post Dave. I should add that due to poor work positioning ( kneeling down and trimming a long lateral curve with the bar nose) I raked across my hip pocket at the power head. My mobile in my pocket had a chunk taken out, better that than my knob
  18. This got posted today from a carver in the US Those tools are deadly and should be left well alone. As said many times, get a carving bar instead.
  19. I like that, not the rain though:sneaky2:
  20. Hi Rob, Is it possible to get Stihl 1/4 rims in the Uk?
  21. That's right, but I think Sawtroll was implying that a Stihl rim will only fit a Stihl drum. Are they compatible with Husqvarna? Oregon do them also if that helps? Rob at Chainsawbars stocks them

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