David Goss

umm maybe you should read it again:001_rolleyes: shame it didnt make it mate but at least you tried:thumbup1:

Good man:thumbup: Good luck and keep safe:biggrin:

yea you pull the orange handle to close the jaws but you can also pull the cord and there is a ball on the end just out of shot you can pull as well so even if you are at full stretch or very close you can always close the jaws.

Tirfor winches are great but real heavy, lightest and probably cheapest option would be a fiddle block or you could set something up yourself if you had a few spare pulleys kicking around. It would surprise you how much weight you can pull over just with a few well positioned pulleys and some wheetabix in the morning

You cant possibly secure your saw every time you put it down to drag some brash round the corner, nor can you carry it with you and this is when they strike. I would love to be able to secure my gear every time i put it down to do something else but that way you would have to spend an extra day on the job with all the locking and unlocking you would need to do and even at that there will always be that 1 time you forget and thats all it takes. I am not saying dont look after your gear but it is almost impossible to have it under lock and key 24/7 especially when you have your head down sweating and longing to get home to put your feet up. I would bet that if someone wanted to they could steal your gear from under your nose elg they are watching and waiting for that 1 opportunity and in your days work i am sure there is more than 1 chance for them. I would say the only way is to have a video camera running constantly so that whenever it does happen at least you have a chance to catch them after the fact, unless they steal the camera as well:thumbdown:

The scumbags will get your gear one way or another no matter how much you try to protect it. You cant keep an eye on it 100% of the time or keep it locked up if your moving it from van to job its just not practical spending all your time locking up your gear every time you move something. Having someone stand guard over it is also hard to do if you are only 2 people and one the head down cutting and the other has the head down dragging etc. I understand what you are saying ELG but it is almost impossible to do, the scumbags are opportunistic as well as calculated and you can never be 100% security minded on the job.

B%Q mate i think they were the best part of £100 but they are very good. The head can flip forward and backward and its also extendable, you can cut bits the full size of the jaw but beech and other hardwoods will take a lot of strength to cut at that size.

Bit of patience mate and you will do well i am sure:thumbup:

You should start your own company rob and go out there and do a good quality job and let all those numpties eat your dust

not felt young and fit for about 10 years:blushing: but i still go out to the tips when i forget the fiskars and silky pole saw which is quite often with the old brain

this is my favourite tools for the job:thumbup1: saves a lot of climbing around the crown and with my old bones that can only be a good thing:001_smile:

2 beeches, 1 removed and the other dead wooded and lifted off the house. Before, during and after photos.

no need to worry about watering up here mate, been chucking it down with rain for the last week:thumbdown:

couple of cherry thinnings today, as usual i forgot to get the before picture on the first tree (3rd pic) but i did remember for the second smaller one (pics 1 and 2)

Welcome to Arbtalk Karlos. Good luck finding work and try the employment section.

i dont use a crab simply because it slips off the choke sometimes when you take your weight off it, whereas the bowline can slip also but much less.

Stump grinder?

You should get one, they are very handy bits of kit:thumbup1: I also use it sometimes for gaining access to the crown with srt using the yoyo method, and if you have a sudden need to get down (bad bowel problem:blushing:) then your already set up for it by simply taking off the hand ascender and pully:thumbup:

you would probably be best selling your saws and buying new over there IMO, by the time you pay for the shipping etc you would probably be spending the same amount of cash anyway and at least you would have new shiny saws to play with:thumbup:

30% is the usual maximum for a reduction, any more and you are getting into topping territory. A lot of people get confused by what a 30% reduction actually is and its difficult to explain on paper but what IS easy to explain is what a 30% reduction Isn't. A 30% reduction is NOT (lets say) a 100 foot tree taken down in height by 30 foot which is how this is normally understood by the customer. What it actually is, is 30% reduction all round the crown of the leaf area maintaining the shape of the tree but reducing the sail and weight. Reducing a tree any more than this is normally only done if there is a danger of failure due to fungus or other damage to the structure of the tree.

magic:thumbup:

I do have the escape route with the grigri and that takes seconds to set up:thumbup1:

That video is good but way too complicated for a simple operation, there is no need at all for all the multislings and creating a drt. Your chogging down so your on spikes and dont need the drt, just spike back up if you need. Keep it simple and there is less to go wrong or less for you to forget to do:001_rolleyes:

I choke it with a running bowline and if you want to retrieve it all you do is attach the tail of your rope to the loop in the bowline, when you get to ground just pull on the tail.