dirtybiker

The real division in Britain is not between London and the north, Scotland and Wales or the old and young, but between Johnson, Gove and Farage and the voters they defrauded. What tale will serve them now? On Thursday, they won by promising cuts in immigration. On Friday, Johnson and the Eurosceptic ideologue Dan Hannan said that in all probability the number of foreigners coming here won’t fall. On Thursday, they promised the economy would boom. By Friday, the pound was at a 30-year low and Daily Mail readers holidaying abroad were learning not to believe what they read in the papers. On Thursday, they promised £350m extra a week for the NHS. On Friday, it turns out there are “no guarantees” and Farage admitted on live TV that this was not true. If we could only find a halfway competent opposition, the very populist forces they have exploited and misled so grievously would turn on them. The fear in their eyes shows that they know it. Re the above. Not my words but those I've read but it hit home with me, sorry I know I'm not with the majority but I think we have been sold a pipe dream on brexit, people have been very naive if think this is anything other than political opportunism by Johnson, Gove and Farage. Just my take on it. Jez (Dirty-biker)

There are chain moticer's that are used in green oak and timber framing but never heard of a morticer that takes a chainsaw !

Most self levelling compounds or latex (trade name) are used for levelling sub-bases. For example levelling a concrete base before tiling it over or laying a carpet etc. Self levelling compound is much softer than concrete etc and will just crumble under a direct load. Don't waste your money on it, it's not what it's designed to do!

Hi. For that's size area with solid stone walls and open plan aspect I think you maybe slightly optimistic. I have a similar size lounge and open plan layout but in a very well insulated house. It heats the room/house but with not much to spare. I run a Jotul 3 cleanburn burn stove rated at 6kw nominal output (it's the nominal rating not max rating that is important) are the Esse ratings nominal or peak Kw? The small stove will not be enough but the bigger one should be ok. If you have the option fit a room sealing kit with the stove, this will help you as you're drawing air directly into the stove rather than causing drafts around the room as the stove tries to draw oxygen. Esse have be around along time but are it the best out there by a long way. Perhaps consider one of the Scandiavian stoves (they have been at it a long time) Morso, Jotul, Scan Anderson etc. My new stove is gonna be a Dru 78! Proper large stove that can take a 2 foot log ;-) so able to keep the fire going all night. A proper BTU requirement calculation can be made at a decent heating and plumbing merchants though you may have to give them a beer for working it out for you, failing that you can get them online. Do your research and don't be tempted by exaggerated output claims. Hope that helps.

Thought mine was mint but yours is pristine Shavey

Why so Saw Troll?

Yep sounds about right! Decal is original and the old boy who sold it to me thinks he brought it around 1990.

Picked up the oil cap but the handle inserts are like rocking horse poo and mega costly for a bit of flat plastic. Anyone got an old one they don't need for the price of a beer?

Cheers all. Yep 'outinalimb' the oil cap is smaller but thanks for looking. Thanks sawchip will have a go at sourcing NOS or used with those numbers. Ta

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Hi all. Picked up a really nice almost mint Husky 50 over the bank holiday weekend. The old boy had it from new and said it had only done 20-30 hours but had been put away and now wouldn't start. His local dealer told him it was beyond economic repair and sold him a new one. Bit naughty really IMO. Anyway I pulled it apart this morning (as the dealer obviously hadn't ). New plug and Ultrasonic clean of the carb and fresh fuel, it was up and running :-) I would like to source a new or used handle insert and being really picky a replacement oil filler cap but not sure what year the saw is as it seems to have gone through several updates through its production run. My question is how do you decipher the model numbers to find the year etc. Mine reads 7130674.

These bits are good. I have the 50mm one, brought for roughing out mortises for green oak framing. Last week I bored into a Jarra hardwood sleeper I that borders the garden with it and plugged the wife's rotary clothes line into it. It cut it easy and as clean as a whistle !

I have it running on the18" bar it came with. Seems to pull it ok. But like I said I'm only using it for firewood.

I use it as a firewood saw. Seems good so far, it's very light to use. Proper ally split crank cases and two rings on the piston. Seems very well built for a 'cheaper saw'. The decomp is useful and it starts well. Typical Japanese quality:001_smile:

I've got a tanaka ecv4501 that I'm just about to sell on. PM me if your interested

You'll be fine, as long as your not using the same set of drawings etc. I built my own oak frame house and loved the look of the front of a house I'd seen. Asked my architect to use it as a basis for the front of mine but changed lots of of details inside and at the rear etc. To a degree everyone takes a bit of something they've seen and incorporates it. Just don't get your architect or draftsmanship to copy it lock stock and barre, put your own stamp on it. Ps, looks very nice. Jez

I'd use Fiddles Teak oil for that. Will darken slightly at first but will offer good protection from damp and easy to recoat.

The company that supplied my oak frame for my self-build house used hundreds of them. All came pre boxed from another company as it wasn't cost effective to make them. Contact any of the oak framing companies, (mine was Border Oak) I'm sure they would point you in the right direction. Don't forget the pegs / dowels should be seasoned not green and are best slightly tapered. The framing team on my place dipped the small end of the peg in Teak Oil before driving it in to the joint. Hope that helps:thumbup:

Fuel line is good but will check the filter. Will try winding out the H screw. Have checked the gauze in the carb. One slightly strange thing is that when I pulled the fuel line off the carb petrol shot out of the pipe as if it's under pressure, not had that before is it normal? Thanks.

Hi thanks. I have already fitted a new diaphragm kit in the initial rebuild. But will re check everything. Ta